how to remove an old ignition switch to replace it
#11
RE: how to remove an old ignition switch to replace it
Well a new ignition assembly should come with them, a Honda dealer should have them, online parts dealers might have them, especially Majestic Honda.
Just cut the slots little by little until you can get a good grab with the screwdriver. That's the only way you'd be able to reuse them.
Just cut the slots little by little until you can get a good grab with the screwdriver. That's the only way you'd be able to reuse them.
#13
RE: how to remove an old ignition switch to replace it
It's no problem! Did the used ignition come with the shear bolts? It should really matter though, you can use just about any bolts that is long enough and has the same threads, I don't know what's so special about the shear bolts, other than it making it harder to remove the ignition.
#14
RE: how to remove an old ignition switch to replace it
im waiting on it right now actually im just trying to get rid of the current one...
yea ima try too look for other bolts make my life easier...hardware store
yea ima cut the bolts just a nice line to put a flat head or so...
and take them off...
yea ima try too look for other bolts make my life easier...hardware store
yea ima cut the bolts just a nice line to put a flat head or so...
and take them off...
#15
RE: how to remove an old ignition switch to replace it
Sounds like you're set to go. I don't think Menards or Home Depot or Lowes sells metric threaded bolts. i really want to say the thread is 8x1.25 (in millimeters), should be something by 1.25 if I'm wrong.
#17
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I know this ship has long since sailed, but I'm putting this here for posterity's sake because it represents a day and a half's worth of work, which included finding a place I could buy the part, getting the column apart, diagnosing the issues I was facing, and figuring out how to get it all apart. It was a real pain.
You need to remove the cowl around the steering wheel column. Six recessed screws will need to be removed from the bottom, and then it has some snaps that hold it together which you can just gently pull apart.
Next, use a small flathead screwdriver to pop out the electronic connectors for the headlight/turn signal and window wiper switches.
Now, for the trouble. It'll be one of the first things you'll notice when you pop the cowl off the steering wheel column. You will see two domed and rounded heads to the bolts that connect through a metal cuff over the top of the steering wheel column into the ignition switch. What's more, the edge of that cuff flares up so that it's impossible to get underneath the heads of those bolts (as if there was any room to do that anyway).
To fix this, you will need to acquire a dremel, or similar tool. First, get the wiring to the headlight and windshield wiper switches out of the way. Next, get a thin grinding disc for the dremel, and fit it in at the most level angle you can over the head of the first bolt you are working on, and grind out a thin slot. Do the same to the second bold.
Now, get a short-handled flathead screwdriver (I used the one on my Gerber multi-tool in conjunction with my "Wonder Bar" which is like a tiny crowbar, because my Gerber was too wide to fit into the slot in the bolt on the left side of the steering column), and unscrew the bolts. This will release the ignition switch from the cuff.
From here, there are two ways to proceed. One is to follow the wiring to the source and unplug them, then run the wiring from the new switch to there and plug it in. The other is to unplug the wiring from the new and old switches and then just switch the mechanical lock and tumblers out. I went this route because someone had installed a remote based anti-theft and auto-starting system, which meant disassembling one of the plug ends of the wires running from the ignition switch. So, it just meant unplugging the green set and unscrewing (three small screws) the blue electronic switch, and then reconnecting them to the new mechanical switch. If it's not seating properly, put the key in the new switch and turn it until the blue switch sits flush against it.
Then, put it all back together. I sure hope this helps someone else.
You need to remove the cowl around the steering wheel column. Six recessed screws will need to be removed from the bottom, and then it has some snaps that hold it together which you can just gently pull apart.
Next, use a small flathead screwdriver to pop out the electronic connectors for the headlight/turn signal and window wiper switches.
Now, for the trouble. It'll be one of the first things you'll notice when you pop the cowl off the steering wheel column. You will see two domed and rounded heads to the bolts that connect through a metal cuff over the top of the steering wheel column into the ignition switch. What's more, the edge of that cuff flares up so that it's impossible to get underneath the heads of those bolts (as if there was any room to do that anyway).
To fix this, you will need to acquire a dremel, or similar tool. First, get the wiring to the headlight and windshield wiper switches out of the way. Next, get a thin grinding disc for the dremel, and fit it in at the most level angle you can over the head of the first bolt you are working on, and grind out a thin slot. Do the same to the second bold.
Now, get a short-handled flathead screwdriver (I used the one on my Gerber multi-tool in conjunction with my "Wonder Bar" which is like a tiny crowbar, because my Gerber was too wide to fit into the slot in the bolt on the left side of the steering column), and unscrew the bolts. This will release the ignition switch from the cuff.
From here, there are two ways to proceed. One is to follow the wiring to the source and unplug them, then run the wiring from the new switch to there and plug it in. The other is to unplug the wiring from the new and old switches and then just switch the mechanical lock and tumblers out. I went this route because someone had installed a remote based anti-theft and auto-starting system, which meant disassembling one of the plug ends of the wires running from the ignition switch. So, it just meant unplugging the green set and unscrewing (three small screws) the blue electronic switch, and then reconnecting them to the new mechanical switch. If it's not seating properly, put the key in the new switch and turn it until the blue switch sits flush against it.
Then, put it all back together. I sure hope this helps someone else.
#19
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I had a hard time before i figured out how to remove my old ignition cylinder to put in a new one... I did this because my old one ond day just stopped working... It just wouldnt turn... so I boutght a new cylinder (it comes with new keys) from auto zone... cost about $26.99.... n e way hope this post helps n e 1...
HONDA ACCORD 92 DX
First remove the 5 screws that hold the stering column with a star point screw driver (you might need a ling screwdriver)...
Remove the casing to expose the ignition assembly
Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the outer shell of the ignition cylinder (black round thing around the turnig part)
Remove the locking screw (I just used a bird beak pliers to back it out because of the odd location " it right by the middle arrow")
Put in the key and turn it to position I.. (Turn on the ignition... dont start it...)
Use a firm tool to depress the locking pin located behind the lock screw towards the stering whele shaft...
Thought U dont see my key in the ignition U MUST HAVE THE IGNITION ON!!!
while depressing the pin hold the key firmly and pull the cylinder out (rock it a but it should come right out)
I couldnt get the new one in cause the new pin on the new cylinder wouldnt depress... (when installing the new one leave the key in the on position)...
I just used a set of pliers to pluck it out... then just used the locking screw to hold it on.... dosent really matter tho...
HONDA ACCORD 92 DX
First remove the 5 screws that hold the stering column with a star point screw driver (you might need a ling screwdriver)...
Remove the casing to expose the ignition assembly
Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the outer shell of the ignition cylinder (black round thing around the turnig part)
Remove the locking screw (I just used a bird beak pliers to back it out because of the odd location " it right by the middle arrow")
Put in the key and turn it to position I.. (Turn on the ignition... dont start it...)
Use a firm tool to depress the locking pin located behind the lock screw towards the stering whele shaft...
Thought U dont see my key in the ignition U MUST HAVE THE IGNITION ON!!!
while depressing the pin hold the key firmly and pull the cylinder out (rock it a but it should come right out)
I couldnt get the new one in cause the new pin on the new cylinder wouldnt depress... (when installing the new one leave the key in the on position)...
I just used a set of pliers to pluck it out... then just used the locking screw to hold it on.... dosent really matter tho...
Last edited by jeromeio; 04-22-2009 at 09:28 PM.
#20
Unregistered
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Hey there guys, I'm new to this site and I was wondering if anyone could tell me just how the hell do you remove the ignition cylinder from a 99 honda accord lx...is the same as the 92 honda that I just read about??? Any advise welcolme!!
Thank''s!
Thank''s!
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