We took out the spark plugs and we got all the gas out well most of it, we then left the car in the on position and there was gas sqirting out of the hole. like a mist of gas.

 

The fuel pressure regulator only has one vacuum line going to the top. The bottom line is the fuel line.

From you description, your inectors are grounded improperly. The black wires going to each injector are the ground supply that open the injector. The ECU switches that wire from open to ground. The ECU can definitely be at fault, or the insulation on the ground wire wore out and is making a false ground.

It is strange that the fuel pump keeps running with the key in the on position. It should only run for 2-3 seconds then kick off. That is controled by the main fuel relay.

This is getting confusing. Maybe someone else can give you their opinion.

 

Ok I just went outside and did the same thing again, ok this time i tried to get a code from the ECU, jumpering the connection wont work the SRS light gives me a code but the Abs goes off and the CEL stays on, no flashes. I also hear like air or coming from the injectors, remember the pins are off, i feel fuelin coming out of the injector, can this be caused by a single leak? does the pump keep running becuase the system wont pressurize? I just remember that i dont get that air out of my tank even when i go fill my tank when it was just on E. like the air is escaping somewhere else.

I will do anything to fix my car, lol. Thanks alot HondaPA, i hope someone else can help me if this info does not help you.

 

I had dropped that injector when i was servicing my EGR port, Afterwards i had lack of power but i also have electrical shortage to EGR. Could it be that, that injector does not work.

 

You should pick up a digital volt meter to do some electrical testing on the injector side of the wiring. If you still have the injectors unplugged, test the resistance on the two terminals of each injector. They should be between 1.5 and 2.5 ohms.

A short in electrical connection to the EGR should not affect the injectors. If you are concerned about losing gas, unpulg the connector to the fuel pump in the trunk to disable the fuel pump.

You can hook up a small test light to each injector connector. Turn the key to the II position. The light should flash when you are trying to start the car. This would indicate that the ECU is properly controlling the injector.

 

I cant go anywhere until my car is fixed, i have no cash, all i have is an electrical tester, there seems to be the same voltage at each injector. I was sufing and found that it could possibly be the main fuel pump relay, because the pump keeps running. Could that be it? whaere is it located?

 

The main fuel relay is under the driver's side dash. It is between the steering column and the center dash. There is an excellent web page that is down right now, showing the location of that relay.

Can you be clearer when you describe the electrical testing. You should have 12V at each connector for the injector. he other wire should have infinite resistance to body ground when the key is in the II position. Tell us what you found on both of these tests.

If you measure the resistance accross the two terminals of the injector, the resistance should be between 1.5 and 2.5 ohms. They should all be similar.

The fuel pump has no way of cutting off at a certain pressure. It should only stay on for a couple of seconds and that is controlled by the ECU. You should pull the three pin connector under the spare tire lid. That will cut off power to the fuel pump, so you don't lose any more gas. If you turn the key to the II position, the blk/yel wire in that 3 pin connector in the trunk should only have power for a couple of seconds. If that wire has power the whole time, either the main fuel relay is bad, or the ECU is messed up.

Report back on the voltage and ground at each injector connector. Also the resistance of each injector. And the power at the fuel pump power connector in the back of the car.

 

I do not have a volt mter to test the Ohms on the injectors, and cash is low, (prom)....thatnk you for helpijg me first of all.

Ok well I found the main relay, after alittle searching. Grey and red at the bottom right?
Well if i open it will i see a burned circuit board?
As for the ECU, if its messed up will the CEL be on without a code because i jumpered the connection and im not getting a code, only for the SRS light, and non for the Abs light.
I doubt there is a way to test the relay, if the relay is bad it could cause the injector to be left open because they arnt being grounded? because i read a couple cases about bad relays and i didnt find no problems like mine, only non starts and stalling.

 

sounds to me like the injector triggers are grounding out. follow the wires that come from the injectors. follow them all the way to the ECU. look for somewhere that the insulation could have rubbed through and its rubbing against the body or another wire with the insulation removed.

 

doesnt the main relay ground out the Injectors? Well in that case i removed the main relay, and took off the cover, the circuit had some brown stuff on it but it didnt look too serious, I put the relay back in and put the car on II i held it and heard and felt the relay click, should it click twice to open and close the connection? Also i did the test on the injectors and since i didnt have a Ohm meter I basically put a volt tester on it ( the one that looks like a scew driver with the light) put the car in the II position and the light didnt flash twice as its suppose to, the light stayed on and never flashed.
so is it the ECU or the Relay?
or something else?

Thank you guys and im trying my best.