Hello All!

My car has recently started to stall on idle. Many times it will just idle fine. When it doesnt, at first it will bounce back from normal idle rpm to really low rpm and then later on when it goes to really low rpm it is not be able to bounce back and just stall. Situation is aggravated with AC on. This happened many times on stop lights and its really frustrating and embarrassing. What I do to prevent stalls on stops is to step on gas a bit just to raise rpm to about 1000+ while stepping on brakes.

Ive been reading stuff on the net and my initial thoughts on this has got something to do with the IACV and cleaning it up might solve the issue. Im hesitant to bring it to the shop since im a bit low in funds and I also wanted to learn more of my car internals so i decided to do it myself.

So with 12mm socket wrench in hand started to remove upper right bolt of the IACV (based on honda manual diagram of intake). Man it was really tight! I was able to loosen it after ten minutes of struggle. Then next was the lower left bolt. To my dismay the socket wrench wont grab the bolt due to the fuel feed hose/inlet (not sure if im talking right) and the rail in the way. Then tried using an open end wrench and it did grab it but it was really tight and later on the wrench would just slip outward (i think the head edges are now flattened a bit). So I sprayed WD-40 on the bolt and waited for it to dry then tried it again with no luck. I felt defeated and went here for help.

Here are my questions:

1. Im I on the right track to check/clean the IACV with the symptoms I mentioned here?
2. What are other (safe) ways of removing stuck bolts on car engines? I read about heat method but Im working on fuel lines so I guess its not an option.
3. Would it be better to remove the whole throttle body just to have better access to IACV unit? Will there be complications during reassembly if I did this?

Sorry if my english is poor as Im not a native english speaker. My post is really long though I hope somebody can shed light on some of my questions.

Car is honda accord dx 1993 AT 4 door sedan 160K miles

Thanks!

 

Yes, sounds like the right path.

On the 93 I thought the IAC was to the front of the car (#15 in pic). The hoses going into it should be coolant and not fuel, now you are close to the fuel rail so I understand your concern. I've seen some "freeze off" type of stuff, not sure if it works as I've not used it. Not sure if a small pair of vise grips might fit down there...I've had some luck with going the other way (tighten) a tiny bit to break the tension. Just a few ideas.

If the head is too far gone, might think about drilling the head off, still have to figure out how to get rest of it off but with the valve out of the way it might be easier.

Can you post a pic, might help?

 

I have used a closed end 12mm wrench to turn these. Never had any that were really tight.

If head is rounded suggest getting a set of Craftsman "trouble sockets". These have a spiraled ridge that bites into the bolt head to allow removal. Don't re-use bolt, and use some anti-sieze and tighten to ~ spec torque.

good luck

 

The pipe i was talking about thats blocking my way is in red. Is that the fuel feed line? Can it be removed? Is it safe to remove it?. The problematic bolt is in yellow (see the edges?).

By the way, how do you remove a stuck hose without damaging it? The hose (teal arrow) is the PCV hose right? The end part connected to the PGM-FI has hardened (or so I thought) and Im concerned I might damage it if I use a pair of pliers to try to move it out. Btw, Ive already removed the hose clamp

Thanks!

 

If the clamp is off, try twisting with pliers. That should free it some, then twist as you pull and see if that helps. Just air flowing thru there so if it does break, not to hard to find a new piece of hose.

 

That should be fuel supply or return (is this RH drive vehicle?). If you loosen the top bolt (banjo bolt), it should release the hose end. It looks like a closed end wrench would access w/o removing this hose.

Stuck hoses can usually be removed by removing clamp first, then twisting by hand until "stick-tion" is released. Then you can pull off. It may be necessary to use pliers to twist. Some tape on the sharp grip edges of pliers may reduce damage to the hose.

Worst case, cut/split hose end to remove. You either shorten or replace hose.

I'm pretty sure that's the PCV hose. Cheap auto store fuel or heater hose will get to soft and collapse under vacuum of PCV.

good lcuk

 

Just tried with a 12mm closed end wrench and it wont grab anymore. It would just slip out. Im out of luck.

How long/difficult would it be to take off the whole PGM-FI?

 

That "PGM-FI" thing is the plenum of the intake manifold. The top part comes off (#10 in the picture) but the bolts holding it together might be just as difficult? If you do that, I'd have a new gasket because the old one might not come off in one piece.

 

Looks like theres 4 bolts holding it and 2 of em are in a "not-so-accessible" location.

Been scouring the net for good wrenches. Do you think this is for real?

Best Sockets and Wrenches Ever, Best Socket Set | DIYAnswerguy.com

Thanks!

 

To remove the PCV hose, spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster where the hose is connected to the barb and let is soak. Wrap a towel around the hose and use a pair of pliers to remove.

For the bolt, spray with PB Blaster. You should be able to get a pair of vice grips on that bolt to break it loose. Any bolts that have a stripped head should be replaced with new ones. They are not too expensive at the dealership. You should be able to get some flanged bolts at the parts store too.

I have had some success with Craftsman Bolt Out set. TexasHonda suggested this in a previous post to remove bolts with a stripped head.

You may be able to use a metric socket that is one size smaller or maybe a standard socket.