Ignition cylinder question...
#1
Ignition cylinder question...
ok, at one point in my cars long life, someone tried to steal it, it was MANY years ago. I don't think we ever had the ignition cylinder fixed. Someone at some point said i probably can put my key in and start your car. Well i haven't tried that yet, hahaha.........
so my question, in the last 3 weeks, i've had a starter issue, my starter went bad (definitely bad), but the cars acting weird, and in that 3 weeks, when i remove the key, i get the ding, that you left your keys in the ignition.
My question...... would this be why i'm having starting issues?
i've changed cap, rotor, wires, ignitor, main relay....this is my last grasp...
comments? Thanks in advance...
so my question, in the last 3 weeks, i've had a starter issue, my starter went bad (definitely bad), but the cars acting weird, and in that 3 weeks, when i remove the key, i get the ding, that you left your keys in the ignition.
My question...... would this be why i'm having starting issues?
i've changed cap, rotor, wires, ignitor, main relay....this is my last grasp...
comments? Thanks in advance...
#3
yes it's still having starter issues, yes the steering wheel locks... I may try the spary lube.....
I was reading that our distro's lose spark??? maybe it's my distro? I thought by replacing the ignitor, all would be good again.....
I was reading that our distro's lose spark??? maybe it's my distro? I thought by replacing the ignitor, all would be good again.....
#4
If you try lubing the lock, try this...
Way down at the bottom of the lock cylinder, there should be a little button that gets pressed by the very tip of the key. Not the code-cut side of the key. That's the button that operates the warning bell. You can probably lubricate & work that button just using a slender tool like a piece of welding-wire.
That's it's own circuit, I don't think it explains the other starting problems.
Way down at the bottom of the lock cylinder, there should be a little button that gets pressed by the very tip of the key. Not the code-cut side of the key. That's the button that operates the warning bell. You can probably lubricate & work that button just using a slender tool like a piece of welding-wire.
That's it's own circuit, I don't think it explains the other starting problems.
#5
I'm probably going to u-pull it tomorrow, to find a distro. for $40 I can at least see if that's it. Everyone has said I've replaced EVERYTHING.
Issues (good and bad)
1.Has good spark at coil
2. gets gas
3. weak spark on wires
4. plugs get saturated with gas
5. runs great once started
6. smells of gas, I don't think running rich, what would cause that?
7. Replaced plugs,wires, ignitor, main relay, cap, rotor.
8. 2nd starter, brand new
9. Battery fine.
???
Issues (good and bad)
1.Has good spark at coil
2. gets gas
3. weak spark on wires
4. plugs get saturated with gas
5. runs great once started
6. smells of gas, I don't think running rich, what would cause that?
7. Replaced plugs,wires, ignitor, main relay, cap, rotor.
8. 2nd starter, brand new
9. Battery fine.
???
#6
Have you checked for engine codes? Do this first.
A "good" spark at the coil and bad spark at the plug with a new cap, rotor, and ignitor would mean a weak coil, bad wiring in the distributor, or possibly a bad ECU. Before throwing more parts at it, how are you testing for spark? Have you tried a timing light?
A "good" spark at the coil and bad spark at the plug with a new cap, rotor, and ignitor would mean a weak coil, bad wiring in the distributor, or possibly a bad ECU. Before throwing more parts at it, how are you testing for spark? Have you tried a timing light?
#7
what's a timing light do??? I took it into the shop, we checked coil, good spark, we checked gas pump, lots of it!, he took his lil screwdriver and unhooked the furthest wire from the plug, stuck it in there, said spark was weak and since i had already replaced everything, to get new cap and rotor, i did wires on my own, after cap and rotor didn't help....i'll check codes, youre talking shorting the lil connector and seeing what my check engine light does...correct?
#8
Timing light is SUPPOSED to be for setting your spark timing.
But it's useful to see whether your spark is strong. A weak spark will not always light-up the timing light.
If you have those spark-tester things that plug in-line between the sparkplug & wire, that might be an even better test. We normally "presume" that someone has a timing light but doesn't have spark-strength testers.
Yes, checking codes on a 1993 is where you jumper that little connector & watch the CEL flash out its code.
But it's useful to see whether your spark is strong. A weak spark will not always light-up the timing light.
If you have those spark-tester things that plug in-line between the sparkplug & wire, that might be an even better test. We normally "presume" that someone has a timing light but doesn't have spark-strength testers.
Yes, checking codes on a 1993 is where you jumper that little connector & watch the CEL flash out its code.
#9
ok.........
so I didn't have access to a timing light, question would that cause the weird starting? here's what's been done.......
new plugs(original saturated with gas)
new main relay(first thought)
new wires(suggestion)
new cap(it was time)
new rotor(it was time)
new coil(it was time)
new igniter(second thought)
new starter(definitely dead)
No Codes.
I couldn't get it to start sat, so I just took out the plugs got a compression guage and per the directions, every cylinder has compression. I read online the car had to be warmed up, but since it wouldn't start, we just did it cold. I didn't want to mess anything so I just cranked until all cylinders reached 120.
so, I'm going on vacation, so my week is friggin booked. the last thing is the distributor...
thoughts?
new plugs(original saturated with gas)
new main relay(first thought)
new wires(suggestion)
new cap(it was time)
new rotor(it was time)
new coil(it was time)
new igniter(second thought)
new starter(definitely dead)
No Codes.
I couldn't get it to start sat, so I just took out the plugs got a compression guage and per the directions, every cylinder has compression. I read online the car had to be warmed up, but since it wouldn't start, we just did it cold. I didn't want to mess anything so I just cranked until all cylinders reached 120.
so, I'm going on vacation, so my week is friggin booked. the last thing is the distributor...
thoughts?
#10
In re-reading this a few questions come to mind.
Do you use the key to start the car? What is the car doing when you turn the key to start....nothing, starter spins the engine but won't run.
Do yourself a favor and try to start the car and check the voltage on the "small" wire to the starter....does it have 12v?
The BLK/YEL wire (?going on memory on the 4th gen) at the dist. When the key is turned to "on"/pos II - does it have 12v?
Do you use the key to start the car? What is the car doing when you turn the key to start....nothing, starter spins the engine but won't run.
Do yourself a favor and try to start the car and check the voltage on the "small" wire to the starter....does it have 12v?
The BLK/YEL wire (?going on memory on the 4th gen) at the dist. When the key is turned to "on"/pos II - does it have 12v?