Code 14 is an electrical fault in IACV circuit; IACV solenoid, connector, wiring, or possibly ECM.

If it recurs immediately after a ECM reset, it should be traceable w/ VOM.

good luck

 

You can test the iacv for ohms across the pins should be 8-15 somewhere in there. If not, it's bad. You should get 12v on the yellow black of the connector with the ignition on. There will be no ground as the ground is supplied by the ecu when it wants.

 

Smoker showed a surprising amount of flow coming from the spark plug towers out of the top of the cam cover. Investigation showed an alarming amount of oil around the spark plugs/boots.

I replaced the cam cover gasket and related seals around a year ago, and the rest of the seals still look nice and clean. Guess I messed up on those o-rings, so I put them on order along with another cam cover gasket.

I don't think a leak of that nature would cause what symptoms I'm seeing, so it's probably unrelated, but it obviously needs fixing anyway.

Any thoughts on whether it's possible for air entering into the top of the head through those o-rings could cause the other symptoms I've described? I don't see it, since it's separate from the combustion chambers and intake manifold.

I found that Matco fuel injector pulse tester, and it will help me check balance on some other vehicles I have around the same age too, so I'm planning to pick one up.

Going to go test the IAC wiring, and try cleaning the injectors.

 

Okay, sorry for the double post, but it's an update, so I didn't just want to edit.

I planned on working on it over the weekend, but didn't get time until Tuesday afternoon. I replaced the cam cover gasket, and spark plug tower o-rings and smoke tested to make sure I eliminated the leak. It didn't fix the other problems, but I didn't expect that it would.

I removed and cleaned the injectors and their little filter screens, plus the fuel rail. I didn't notice any sort of debris, but some sediment can be pretty miniscule. Either way, it also didn't fix the issue. I'd unplugged the battery while working on the car (old habit), which naturally cleared the codes.

I checked the IAC wiring resistance and IAC resistance while I was under the hood, but it appeared to be correct.

During the test drive, the light came back on with the same symptoms as before.

After I checked the light, though, I noticed the only thing logged in the system was Code 01. 02 sensor. No more code 43.

So I inspected the thing, and didn't see any obvious issues physically with the wiring. I thought about how I said it seemed electronic, and then went away when the car had warmed up, and decided it was possible that perhaps the heater function of the 02 sensor had failed even though it was a new part.

I checked, and it turns out I bought the good Denos 02 sensor instead of the Bosch, but I replaced it anyway, because Advance offered to exchange it on warranty.

Two days of test driving later, and the drive-ability is back to the way it was before this whole mess started.

So it looks like maybe I had the right idea several months ago, and got caught out by a bum 02 sensor right off the shelf. Time will tell.

 

Like a faithful friend, code 43 returned last night on the way home. About 9 miles into the 16 mile trip. No running issues, simply the code. I checked to verify it was code 43 again when I got home.

The same thing this morning, only much earlier in the trip. Left the driveway, light came on while still in the neighborhood, no running issues yet.

I've been driving the car pretty regularly over the past week and a half with no running issues or lights until now. The only change that seemed to matter was that new Denso 02 sensor. Thoughts?

 

Persistent, intermittent behavior suggests a wiring or connector fault.

I would suggest trying to first duplicate the fault by resetting ECU, and running car at 3000 rpm for 2 mins (see shop manual if you have one). Does code immediately return or not?

If not, it's time to look for wiring or connector damage. Suggest backprobing O2 sensor inputs at the ECU connector and observing the voltage. It should oscillate fairly rapidly 1-2 times/second at idle between 0.1-0.2 v and 0.7-0.9 volts. If no/low voltage, further investigation of wiring and connectors is necessary to find fault.

good luck

 

Now that the code is tripping again, I think it will come on immediately if I were to run it through the 3k rpm for 2 minutes process. That's basically how it occurs once I'm driving it. Would stationary, in park, change the parameters and make me need to test it that way instead of driving it?

For the other testing, I assume I'm doing this back probing while KOER, with the car warmed up?

 

Test w/ Key On, Engine Running.

If a fault is detected (zero volts or perhaps 5V constant), then investigate each wire w/ VOM for short/open condition w/ harness O2 sensor disconnected.

good luck

 

Have you checked for an exhaust leak yet or not ? You can use seafoam to check for a leak. Look anywhere from the exhaust manifold gasket to the oxygen sensor. Look for white smoking coming out.

 

Hey, I did smoke test both the intake and exhaust system, but other than the spark plug tower o-rings I didn't see any other issues.

I removed and cleaned the intake manifold and IACV around the beginning of January LAST year, so I don't know if seafoam will do much else for me. At this point I've cleaned the screens on the injectors and cleaned the fuel rail. I'm going to try back probing the O2 sensor again, to see if I have a wiring problem.

I also picked up that injector pulse tester, so I can flow test the injectors when I have time, as well.