Installing front crankshaft seal
 

My Chilton says to pack the inside of seal with grease to keep the spring from popping out during install. Should a guy put any grease or oil on the outside to make it easier driving the seal in or put any oil/grease on the inside edge of the seal where it sits around the crank or just leave it dry?

Thanks

I'd "lube" the crank and the lip of the seal....and have. And a thin lube of the outside of the seal won't hurt.

How far to drive in?
 

I just replaced all my seals with a timing belt job and now i have a leak. From what I can tell it is not coming from the front balance shaft or camshaft. I see it being sprayed from the crank behind the timing gears.

Sounds like a no-brainer for the crankshaft seal, but is it possible for any other source to leak onto the crank and be thrown from the spinning shaft??

I am not sure what went wrong with the seal install.. I used a new Beck Arnley seal, greased it and drove it in straight. I drove it flush with the case/oil cover, should it have been driven deeper?

I am going to pick up a genuine honda seal and try again.

Thanks for any advice.

There is an o-ring behind the rear balance shaft gear case that can leak oil. There are only three shaft seals under the timing belt cover, one for the front balance shaft, camshaft, and crankshaft. Did you instal the front balance shaft seal retainer?

I replaced the rear seal and I can visually see that the cam and front balance shaft are not leaking. I have the motor idling without the timing covers on. Can't quite see the rear shaft but seal is new oem and installed well.

Errr!!! tips to remove the current seal
 

Well the leaking new seal is not cooperating like the original. With the original, i was able to drive a small screwdriver under the outer platic coating and pop the seal. it was almost like magic. on the new seal the covering just rips off.

I get the idea with a seal puller, but that kind of expects that there is some reasonble gap between the shaft and the steel inner guts of the seal. The crank seal looks like a giant thick washer with a very small seal. The distance between the steel and the shaft is very small.

Anyone have any good ideas on how to remove this seal short of drilling through the outer edge and inserting a screw to use for leverage? Also should the new seal be driven in flush with the case or below?

Gonna try again tomorrow...thanks for the suggestions

Got some answers for my own questions
 

i just watched a u-tube video where a guy got the seal out by driving a small screwdriver between the seal and the case and then used the screwdriver to pry the seal out. This kind of makes sense because he said he could use silicone to repair the sealing surface on the outer part of the new seal if he damaged the case, but there is no repairing the seal if the crank is damaged.

Also after taking out the old seal it seemed pretty obvious that the seal will bottom out at a certain point, so you cannot drive it in too deep, only not drive it in completely.

necesito manual de instalacion de faja de distribucion honda accort 2005 motor f20 les agradesco por adelantado atte,jose garcia

When a guy gets the timing belt off will the two belt guides and the lower timing belt pulley just slide off the crank exposing the crank seal or is there something else that will need to be unbolted in order to get to the seal?

Thanks

I have a 96 accord EX 4 cyl. In my setup, there is a timing belt and a balance shaft belt. The crank pulley turns two accessory drive belts, one for power steering and the other a/c and alternator.

After you get the 150ftlb nut off the crank pulley, that should easily slip off the crankshaft. Mine is kind of loose when not torqued down. If you haven't taken that off yet, it can be a bear. I was successful using a technique in my repair manual of wedging a screwdriver in the flywheel gear (Automatic Transmission) and having a helper turn the nut with a pretty long breaker bar. Since I have done this a couple of times, I picked up a pry bar set from Harbor Freight and with teh use of that and a tie down strap I am able to make it a one man job !!
Sorry for the sidebar

Once the crank pulley is off, you have the timing belt gears exposed. The toothed wheels for the timing belts and the crank sensor "large washer" right next to the case are all one piece. I removed my belts by loosening the bolt holding down the idler pulleys (14mm) and pushing back the idlers to remove tension.

The manual said to drive a large screwdriver gently between thet sensor washer behind the gears and the case. I did it from the top and with a little pressure and pry it popped loose and was able to be slid off. Actually the crank sensors and metal wire protector under the crank must be removed for the gears to slide off. The crank sensors had four 10 or 12 mm bolts.

Now you can see the crank seal and you should have good access through the wheel well. Check out u-tube to see how the guy took one off using a hammer and screwdriver. Worked well for me.

Good luck.

gasguzzler....please add your car info to your signature line......I can't remember if you are the one with a 3rd gen or 4th gen.....

I THINK you have the 3rd gen (86-89). If so you only have one belt.....and continue to read

Yes, the gear/guides slide off and "bam" there is the seal. Again if this is a 3rd gen, while there I would replace the two oil pump o-rings....Yes two.

Yes it's a 87 2.0 carbed LX. I tried to edit my sig. but it doens't appeat to have worked.

So there's no bearing cap or anything to unbolt in order to get to main seal after removing Tbelt sprocket. That's good to know. As far as the orings I have no idea where those are. Can you elaborate? Thanks

Edit: I guess it did work! lol

Final thoughts on seal install
 

Based on your post, you have a completely different engine, but as a final thought I had a lot of success pressing in the crank seal using a short length of PVC pipe. 1 1/4 fit well under the crank bolt's washer and the gasket could be pressed in by a slightly larger 1 1/2 pipe. I used a very short section of 1 1/4 and had a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 coupler that quickly changed size for me. When the pipes were joined, the total lenght for me was about 2 3/4" long. the new seal pressed in easily and it actually went slightly below the case.

For your seals, check out bernardiparts.com or majestic honda online parts. you can lookup for your model. looks like you have two, maybe even three orings for your oil pump. I think the numbers on the sheet were 4,10,11. sorry I couldn't post the link. Two normal round orings and the other has another piece of rubber crossing the center. All seem relatively inexpensive.
001 004 15103-PC6-003ViewGASKET, OIL PUMP BODY 2.531.850.00 001 005 15132-PD2-000ViewROTOR, PUMP (OUTER) (NOT AVAILABLE)16.6512.190.00 001 007 15220-PH4-000View15220-PH4-010STRAINER, OIL (SUPERCEDED)41.4030.300.00 002 008 15221-PH4-010ViewSPACER, OIL STRAINER (NOT AVAILABLE)8.526.230.00 001 009 91302-657-000ViewO-RING (53.8X3.1) 3.252.380.00 001 010 91310-PC6-004ViewO-RING (15.5X2.7) 1.731.270.00 001 011 91312-PC6-003ViewO-RING (57.8X2.4) 2.721.990.00

corrrection, 4, 9, 11 10 I think was a small oring for the oil tube. All the junk posted at the end was a paste of their part numbers. sorry.

004 15103-PC6-003GASKET, OIL PUMP BODY
009 91302-657-000O-RING (53.8X3.1)
011 91312-PC6-003 O-RING (57.8X2.4)

And that is what I get for going from memory...yes three and dang I did this in Sept of 2011....really loosing it. I was one of the last days I got to spend with the boy

For one of them you have to "open up" the oil pump....that one might be over kill, even though I did it on the 89 LXi because, I was there and it has over 200k, why not.

I think I'll buy and have all this stuff on hand before I start on it and decide how deep into it I need to go based on how things look and how things go.

Thanks guys for the help.