Well I found the little blue plug and interrogated the ECM and the results are inconclusive. I can't see any difference between the CEL flashes and stared at it for quite a while trying to notice any sort of pattern. The flashes all look the same except the very first one when turning on the ignition, it is shorter but I can't tell if there are any meaningful pauses and if the flashes are short or long
The PDF file suggested that the CEL would stop flashing after the codes were finished...well it just keeps blinking away I would think after 25 minutes it would be done but it just keeps on going. The S light seems to have a defined pattern in its flashing but I believe that is for the transmission. Still stumped.

 

This could be due to a marginal O2 sensor. A failed O2 sensor will set a code 43, however I've read of cars w/ drivability symptoms that were cured w/ a new O2 sensor. If yours is over 50K miles, you might consider this option if the other ideas don't work out.

I also would suspect a faulty ignition part as primary culprit; distributor cap, rotor, or coil.

good luck

 

You have to look for the pattern. The codes sequence repeats after all codes are displayed, so it will never stop flashing. If codes are all single digit, there will only be short flashes, but there should be a long pause between succesive codes or repeat of one code.

Sometimes when too many codes are present, it's better to reset the ECU (pull BackUp fuse) and see what codes come up first.

good luck

 

Here is a link to a youtube video that shows how to short the connector. At the end, you see that he gets a code 12 (1 long blink + 2 short blinks).

In his video, he inserted a staple in the holes diagonal to each other, which, I think is incorrect. Short the two holes that have the pins in it, they will be on the same side. I think they are the larger holes.

youtube.com/watch?v=b6rEk9aXOmg

 

The youtube video was very helpful since it showed both the short and long blink. It would apear that based on that video that it has a code less than 10 so I will have to have another look at it when I can catch up with my daughter again. Something I noticed under the hood today while messing with it was the PCV hose is fairly soft and when at idle it is almost sucked closed. I pulled the PCV out of the valve cover with it running and put my thumb over the valve to see if it was pulling air and it was. I was thinking that with the engine at operating temp with the hood closed that hose may get warm enough to fully collapse under vaccume. Would that interuption of "controlled" vaccume leak into the intake cause a off idle accelleration stumble? Seems logical to me. I appreciate all of the advice from you guys.

Another question related to the ECM reset to clear codes, the PDF said pull fuse #24 for a few minutes. Which fuse is #24 the driver side kick panel doesn't go that high and the under hood ones aren't numbered on the cover that I could find. I want to clear all the codes when this issue is solved for a clean slate. I would assume that disconnecting the battery as when I did the engine swap in June would have cleaned the slate at that point... right?

 

I don't think PCV hose collapse would cause missing. Collapse simply closes off air flow to the intake manifold. It would cause blowby from engine to be forced into air intake and increase oil/dirt accumulation around the throttle plate. I would get an OEM hose or thicker wall hose. If hose has a rupture or hole that allowed excess air flow, it would affect idle and acceleration.

The fuse you want to pull is the BackUp fuse and it's on the rear inside corner of the underhood fuse box. If you have a Honda security protected radio you will need the restart code to enable.

good luck

 

Okay there is a new little wrinkle to this problem, maybe this new symptom might help zero in on what has been acting up on this car. My daughter was driving home last night and the dash lights flickered off and on a couple times then the car started missing then it died and the instrument cluster lights went out. When she tried to restart it the cluster lights came back on and it started but as soon as she let the key return to the run position it died and the cluster lights went out again. All of the rest of the lights worked normally. I was on the road out of town so she had a friend of hers help her check fuses and such but the condition remained that it would die after letting the key move from start to run position. Battery is good connections are clean and tight. Is there a relay or something that could be responsible for the earlier intermittent off idle stumble and this new issue? I will be picking the car up this weekend to examine it in person and start trying to diagnose the problem. All ideas are welcome and encouraged. Thanks.

 

This latest problem has all appearances of failing ignition switch,... a very common Honda problem. New switch is easy to install. Check DiY's for help, or the earlier techautorepairs.com site for guidance on this problem.

good luck

 

Sometimes with a flaky ignition switch, you can hold the key just barely forward (but not enough to run the starter). Or you can make it stall by wiggling the key. If that's the case, replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.

 

Thanks guys, it does stay running when holding just a tiny bit toward the start position...that was how they got home last night aparently and that worked to put it on the tow dolly today. Not very convinced that this has anything to do with the off idle miss but I'll repair the ignition switch and we will see what happens. A friend of mine suggested that I check and maybe resolder the EFI main relay on top of the cruise control unit under the dash shown at this link : http://techauto.awardspace.com/index.html#overview

I will dig into it tomorrow when there is some daylight to work in.