Intermittent Start Problem-Must Diagnose
I have a 1997 Honda Accord that has been difficult to start in the early morning, after the car has sat overnight. It cranks when I turn the key but won't turn over. Initially, I could start it by jump starting. I replaced the battery and it started. The very next morning, no start. If I tried again later in the day it would usually start. Mechanic diagnosed a weak spark and replaced the distributor and ignition coils (using non Honda parts-I think Car Quest) as well as a full tune up, replacing plugs and fuel filter. Picked it up in the afternoon drove it that day, and failed to start the next day. Left the car by the mechanic the next 5 days for him to try it at the same time I seem to have the problem (early morning) but by the time they get to the shop, it is later in the morning and the car starts for them. He replaced the relay switch. Picked it up in the evening and it started. Next morning, no start.
If I moved the car in the sun and waited until the morning warmed up, eventually it would start.
Around the same time the problem appeared, I had used up some gas from a gas can that was about 5 months old. It was about 3/4 gallon into a full tank. I told the mechanic and he said based on weak spark initially diagnosed and fuel filter (that he later replaced, this should not be the problem and doesn't explain why it will start after the morning warms up. I put in a bottle of dry gas anyway with no change. I have been through about 2 tankfuls of gas since the problem first appeared about 3 weeks ago, so I would think any "bad gas" would have run its course.
There is no "code" to pull because the check engine light is not on. Is there any common problem related to temperature or condensation that could be causing this? I am at my wits end.
Any help would be appreciated.
If I moved the car in the sun and waited until the morning warmed up, eventually it would start.
Around the same time the problem appeared, I had used up some gas from a gas can that was about 5 months old. It was about 3/4 gallon into a full tank. I told the mechanic and he said based on weak spark initially diagnosed and fuel filter (that he later replaced, this should not be the problem and doesn't explain why it will start after the morning warms up. I put in a bottle of dry gas anyway with no change. I have been through about 2 tankfuls of gas since the problem first appeared about 3 weeks ago, so I would think any "bad gas" would have run its course.
There is no "code" to pull because the check engine light is not on. Is there any common problem related to temperature or condensation that could be causing this? I am at my wits end.
Any help would be appreciated.
get a can of carb cleaner, remove the air intake TUBE the night before ,,,,,in AM have someone crank the car while you spray carb cleaner in the throttle body ( manually open the blade ) if car starts right away it is lack of fuel or fuel pressure
OR....
hook up a fuel pressure gauge the night before , chk pressure first thing in AM when car does not start ,,,,,,,,,,,try that and let us know
OR....
hook up a fuel pressure gauge the night before , chk pressure first thing in AM when car does not start ,,,,,,,,,,,try that and let us know
Any idea why this problem seems to be affected by how "cool" the car is. If I park the car so it gets direct sunlight in the early morning (as opposed to parking in the shade) it is more likely to start up. Once it is started that first time in the morning, I can start it throughout the day without a problem.
Desert is trying to have you figure out if the fuel pump or main relay are the problem by using the starting fluid.
If you can find someone to help you in the morning, do the starting fluid test.
Without someone to help, you can listen for the fuel pump to prime by turning the key to the II position (don't try to start the car), and listen for the fuel pump to turn on for ~2 seconds in the middle of the clicks from the main relay. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully. Let us know if you hear it prime or not.
I would still stop by an autozone and have codes read just to be thorough.
If you can find someone to help you in the morning, do the starting fluid test.
Without someone to help, you can listen for the fuel pump to prime by turning the key to the II position (don't try to start the car), and listen for the fuel pump to turn on for ~2 seconds in the middle of the clicks from the main relay. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully. Let us know if you hear it prime or not.
I would still stop by an autozone and have codes read just to be thorough.
So you took your car to a mechanic, when in fact you need a technician.
I don't think very much of diagnostics by parts replacement.
To find and fix the problem is going to require thought and Patience.
Try a couple different things to see if it makes any difference in the cold engine morning start problem.
Before you try to start the car, take off the gas cap and put it back on.
Before you try to start the car, turn on the key wait 3-4 seconds hold the gas pedal 1/2 way then crank the engine
Before you try to start the car, turn the key on wait 3-4 seconds, turn the key off, turn the key on, wait 3-4 seconds then crank the engine.
If any of these things makes a difference it can be used as a clue to the problem
While the car is running, stop by the local parts store and get a test light, it is an excellent diagnostic tool to have on hand.
You don't actually have to have 2 people to do what was suggested above, if you open the throttle plate by hand and spray in a 2 second blast of carb cleaner, then QUICKLY jump around and crank the engine. There will still be plenty of fumes in the throttle body to suck into the cylinders.
I don't think very much of diagnostics by parts replacement.
To find and fix the problem is going to require thought and Patience.
Try a couple different things to see if it makes any difference in the cold engine morning start problem.
Before you try to start the car, take off the gas cap and put it back on.
Before you try to start the car, turn on the key wait 3-4 seconds hold the gas pedal 1/2 way then crank the engine
Before you try to start the car, turn the key on wait 3-4 seconds, turn the key off, turn the key on, wait 3-4 seconds then crank the engine.
If any of these things makes a difference it can be used as a clue to the problem
While the car is running, stop by the local parts store and get a test light, it is an excellent diagnostic tool to have on hand.
You don't actually have to have 2 people to do what was suggested above, if you open the throttle plate by hand and spray in a 2 second blast of carb cleaner, then QUICKLY jump around and crank the engine. There will still be plenty of fumes in the throttle body to suck into the cylinders.
Thank you for your replies and suggestions. There has been some progress but before I get ahead of myself, I do hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key half way. I have tried opening the gas cap to release pressure before starting. I haven't held the pedal down halfway but I tried pumping the gas pedal before starting to see if it would make a difference at those times when I am not able to start the car and it has not made a difference. I would go out and try the other suggestions but that brings me to the progress part.
I brought the car to another shop that specialized in foreign cars and diagnosing problems. The problem of difficulty starting in the morning suggested a "cold starting" issue which pointed them in the direction of the ignition control module. They tested the theory by starting the car when it had warmed up and then removed the module, put it in the refrigerator and tested it again. After testing, they discovered it was not functioning after being cooled down. They gave the option of replacing new or through a salvage part. I chose salvage at half the price of a new part based on age of the car, 204,000.00 miles, and my realization that I may have to think about another vehicle soon. They will install the ICM on Tues, test it on Wed, and I will get a status then. Thank you all for trying to help me understand the problem.
I brought the car to another shop that specialized in foreign cars and diagnosing problems. The problem of difficulty starting in the morning suggested a "cold starting" issue which pointed them in the direction of the ignition control module. They tested the theory by starting the car when it had warmed up and then removed the module, put it in the refrigerator and tested it again. After testing, they discovered it was not functioning after being cooled down. They gave the option of replacing new or through a salvage part. I chose salvage at half the price of a new part based on age of the car, 204,000.00 miles, and my realization that I may have to think about another vehicle soon. They will install the ICM on Tues, test it on Wed, and I will get a status then. Thank you all for trying to help me understand the problem.
Thought I should update and correct the thread. The part identified as the likely culprit was the Engine Control Module, not the ignition control module. Furthermore, after programming and installation of the ECM, the same start-up problem existed. This then led to the much more confident diagnosis that the problem is with the Crank sensor, located near the timing belt. I was told that my 1997 Honda had a "dual sensor set up" and that not all 1997 Accords had the same sensor set up.
It was 100,000 since my last timing belt so I had the timing belt and crank sensor changed. Tomorrow morning will be the big test.
It was 100,000 since my last timing belt so I had the timing belt and crank sensor changed. Tomorrow morning will be the big test.


