Lock actuator replacement - bolt stripping
Ugh. I'm trying to replace a faulty left rear power door lock actuator on my 2002 Accord. The top two bolts came out smooth as butter but the lower bolt won't budge and is starting to strip.
Any thoughts/advice on how to proceed? Is this a common problem? I used what seemed to be an appropriate size philips bit. Do I need an impact driver or some other tool? Thanks. Jim |
An impact driver may do the job.
If not, I've also used a small sharp cold chisel to hit edge of bolt/screw and break loose. Replace screw when extracted. good luck |
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 261666)
An impact driver may do the job.
If not, I've also used a small sharp cold chisel to hit edge of bolt/screw and break loose. Replace screw when extracted. good luck Jim |
No luck
So I've tried both the impact driver and chisel. The bolt won't budge. I've pretty much stripped out the head and the chisel just curls the metal.
Which got me wondering. What is in the door behind these bolts? If I were to drill the head enough to get the mechanism loose from the door, would I have any better chance of removing what remains of the bolt? Any other ideas? I thought about finding someone to weld a head onto the bolt but not sure if this would work. Jim |
Sounds like you are referring to the 3 screws holding the latch to the door frame. It is the latch behind there; but, if you drill, you will need to use a smaller diameter drill bit (which you probably already realized from seeing how the screw looks like from the ones you removed).
Before trying to drill, I would try using a center punch to make an indentation on the screw, then while holding it at an angle, use a hammer to drive the screw out counter-clockwise. A center punch only needs a tiny area of the screw to bite into. |
Welding a nut onto the bolt may work,..if the bolt material will back out w/o twisting off. I suspect this bolt may be cross-threaded making removal very difficult.
You may ultimately need to drill out and install a blind rivet nut. See youtube video Installation of "Blind Rivet Nuts". good luck |
Originally Posted by redbull-1
(Post 263232)
Before trying to drill, I would try using a center punch to make an indentation on the screw, then while holding it at an angle, use a hammer to drive the screw out counter-clockwise. A center punch only needs a tiny area of the screw to bite into.
How to remove the ignition assembly |
I may be wrong; but, I thought the lock actuators on the 6th gen Accords could be removed without removing the latch.
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Success!
Yes, SUCCESS! The center punch did the trick. After about 15 minutes of working at it I was literally within a few blows of throwing in the towel. Just like that, the screw head began to turn! Thanks to all of your for your help!!!
So I come on here to share my success, only to see the post above that says that I may not have to remove the latch to replace the actuator. :D Oh, well. Live and learn. That said, can anyone shed light on whether or not I do indeed need to remove the latch? Even better, point me to model-specific instructions for my 2002 Accord? I thought I'd done my research and all of the directions I found all looked like the actuator and latch came out as one single unit that had to be separated. Also, anyone know of a good online source to procure a new bolt? My local Honda dealership ripped me off to the tune of $3500 last year for what turned out to be a bad ignition switch, so I am not anxious to give them another penny of business, even if it's just for a single bolt. Thanks again. Jim |
You can find M6 or M4 bolts at hardware or auto parts stores.
Check youtube video "How to Install Replace Rear Power Door Lock Actuator Honda Accord 94-97 1AAuto.com". This should be very similar to yours. good luck |
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 263244)
You can find M6 or M4 bolts at hardware or auto parts stores.
Check youtube video "How to Install Replace Rear Power Door Lock Actuator Honda Accord 94-97 1AAuto.com". This should be very similar to yours. good luck As far as the video, I've watched that 1AAuto video on YouTube numberous times and felt that I have a pretty good idea of the steps. What gave me pause was the earlier post that said I might not need to remove the latch. Since the Accord in the video was a 94-97 I wasn't entirely sure if the steps would be the same. I plan to proceed following the instructions presented in that video and I'll be sure to post my results. Thanks again to you and all of the other posters who took the time to help me by replying to my thread. Take care - Jim |
This link includes instructions I posted on removing the front actuator without removing the latch on 94-97 Accords fronts. I am not sure of the 6th gen Accords, which is why I stated so.
94-97 Accord D.S. Lock Actuator - Microswitch Repair/Reset? - Honda-Tech |
Originally Posted by redbull-1
(Post 263266)
This link includes instructions I posted on removing the front actuator without removing the latch on 94-97 Accords fronts. I am not sure of the 6th gen Accords, which is why I stated so.
94-97 Accord D.S. Lock Actuator - Microswitch Repair/Reset? - Honda-Tech I really appreciate your help and hope I didn't imply anything other than what you wrote. I've never done this before and all of the instructions I could find were for earlier model Accords. I assumed (that being the key word) that it would be the same in my 2002, but your post got me thinking and made me realize that they might not be the same. Take care Jim |
Apologies for necro'ing this old thread, but wanted to add that I ran into this problem today on my 2000 Honda Accord. Same deal, top two bolts came off, bottom bolt wouldn't budge.
Center punch didn't help, but I was able to remove it with a screw extractor kit and an OK-but-not-great drill. Specifically the kit I ended up using and was AMAZED that it worked was called "Speedout Titanium" but I imagine any reputable kit will be worth a try. Just wanted to add in case this is helpful for anyone currently trying to solve this dilemma! |
I've never gotten that kit to work. I was also work on a hard screw that I could heat up because to much plastic was around it
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