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Loss of Power and MPG

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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 05:38 AM
  #11  
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Ok, thank you redbull, i will update you when i find out more. Also, ty for the illustration, now i can confirm that the TPS is right below it, and what that other sensor is beside it.
 
Old Sep 20, 2013 | 06:02 AM
  #12  
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Is the MAP sensor the replacement for the MAF sensor? Whats the difference?
 
Old Sep 20, 2013 | 10:22 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Taurus1980
Ok, thank you redbull, i will update you when i find out more. Also, ty for the illustration, now i can confirm that the TPS is right below it, and what that other sensor is beside it.
A1: There is no other sensor beside the IAT sensor on your car.

Originally Posted by Taurus1980
Is the MAP sensor the replacement for the MAF sensor? Whats the difference?
A2: The MAP is not the replacement for the MAF. For the Accords, Honda didn't use a MAF sensor, until the 2003-05 Accord 4 cylinder SULEV (they used a combined IAT/MAF sensor). 2006-07 Accord 4 cylinder (all U.S. models) had the IAT/MAF sensor. Starting for 2008 Accord 4 cylinder models, there was a separate MAF sensor. They all still had a MAP sensor.

The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is located at the intake manifold, right after the throttle body. The MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor is located at the air intake, generally right after the air cleaner.
 
Old Sep 20, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #14  
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Ok Thank you. i changed the air intake temp sensor today and no change in power or MPG's. Any suggestions? Do i need to reset CPU? I recently changed the air flow chamber in the side of the intake hose. Could that do it?
 
Old Sep 21, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #15  
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After replacement of the IAT sensor.
1.
Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Then perform the idle learn procedure.

The following is generally the idle learn procedure:
Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. Disconnect battery for a short while (3 minutes would be fine). Turn ignition switch to ON (II) and wait 2 seconds. Start engine and hold engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (A/T in P or N, M/T in neutral) until radiator fan comes on, or until engine coolant temp. reached 194 degrees F. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed. (If radiator fan comes on, do not include the running time in the 5 minutes.)

The air flow chamber is part of the PCV system. Was there a specific reason you changed that?

If problem still exist, recheck everything you previously replaced, moved, etc. ; such as the installation and condition of the air flow chamber, the hoses for the PVC system, spark plugs, etc. Look for restriction in the air flow chamber and hoses, look at the condition of the spark plugs, etc.
 

Last edited by redbull-1; Oct 14, 2013 at 01:09 AM.
Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:45 PM
  #16  
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Ok, i did everything your last message explained, and checked all components i replaced or moved, took off all hoses to check flow or restriction, plugs look fine. I only changed the air flow chamber because of the rubber piece on top of it was cracked, and it was cheap. No other codes came up. Im lost!, lol
 
Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:06 AM
  #17  
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I was reading in my haynes manual today and the code P0113 says IAT High Voltage. What does the high voltage part mean? Is the sensor getting to much current? Some of these coded have vague descriptions. You would think that by changing a sensor that was faulty, it would fix the problem. I guess thats not true with Honda. Too many little things can cause major problems. gas mileage is horrible now and acceleration really stinks now. I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars just to diagnose the issue. Very frustrated at the moment.
 
Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #18  
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I have lost heat during all this as well. Would a bad thermostat cause this problem? Or should i look at possible head gasket or intake gasket? Just grasping at straws here, trying to find a solution. TY all for your help in this matter
 
Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:20 AM
  #19  
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Vehicle does not overheat.
 
Old Sep 22, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #20  
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I think the loss of heat and the code are two different issues.

Do you have a voltmeter to do some testing for the code?

For the heat. Check the coolant level just to be sure. Next, be sure the cable is moving on the heater control valve when "heat" is selected.

Last, this is just me and is just a guess so take it that way and understand fully that it is a guess. If the O2 sensor (primary) is old, it could be lazy and cause some of the issues you are having......and a lazy O2 will not always set a code.
 



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