Yeah, normally when it gets even colder, the noise remains. Maybe the "coincidence" is that it took a day or 2 for the silicone to work its way through the bushing??

 

I think the cold thing is a coincidence.

On Monday I removed both the front bushings. They looked fine; no cracks or signs of wear. I lined them w/grease and put them back on.
The front bushings (radius arm?) looked like they were ok, no cracks that I could see from the front, but I didn't remove them.

Today I've got all kinds of noise coming from the front. The noise is predominately a squeaking/creaking sound.
I still can't get it to make the noise when pressing the corners of the car.
It seems to occur when the car is moving and I move the steering wheel from side to side.
It doesn't happen consistently.
It doesn't happen when the car is not moving and I wiggle the steering wheel.

When I was under the car on Monday I tried pulling on the tierods. I don't really know much about them, but they "seemed" tight. I was able to wiggle them a bit (the outer end is on a ball joint, so I'm thinking I should be able to do that, right?).
I don't think I have excessive play in the steering wheel. When parked and turning the steering wheel I don't feel any lag before the tires start to move.
With the front lifted and on jack stands I grabbed the front tires at 3 & 9 o'clock and tried to turn them (as though the steering wheel were being turned). I heard a little clicking sound like there was a speck of slack in the linkage between the wheels. But the movement was being transferred to both wheels.
Any other thoughts?

 

One thing I notice when I'm checking tie rods, is there's a lot of play in the steering-wheel lock. This check works best if you get a helper to reach into the open window & hold the steering wheel. Otherwise the steering wheel can move 1/4-inch or more and make knocking sounds as it hits the lock. You'll feel that "steering" motion and it'll transfer to the opposite front wheel too.

I wonder if engine mounts are making noise? Far-fetched but easy to check. Grab the valve cover & shake it every which way to try & make the sound.

 

I tried shaking the car by the valve cover and no noise.

Still haven't had a chance to raise the car again (so I haven't been able to check the tie-rods while holding the steering wheel), but I have now gotten the noise to occur when the car is NOT moving. Tonight I got it to occur when parked while wiggling the steering wheel back and forth. That is making me think it is likely to be in the steering (and having me hope it is the outer tie-rod ends).
Does this seem reasonable? If, there is no play in the wheels when trying to move them (described by JimBlake) what should I look at next? My mother-in-law will be here for the holidays next week and will likely be driving my car. I really don't want it making noise or being unsafe! Really!

 

Got ramps? Drive up on them & look underneath. Watch the motion as someone wiggles the steering wheel back & forth (trying to make the noise).


I wonder if it might be the rubber bushings for mounting the steering rack (#5 & #19)? If so, you might work some grease into there. And when you find the source of the noise, then you can judge whether it's an actual safety issue or just an annoying noise.

 

I've got ramps! Thanks. I will try that.

 

Make sure it's solid so the car doesn't come down on top of you...

 

That would be a bad day.... I am terrified of gravity!

I finally got the car to make noise while pressing down on it. It is definitely from the front right. I was able to reach into the wheel well while moving the car myself and could feel vibration on the upper control arm and the fork? (the part that attaches to the upper ball joint). I was not able to determine if the noise was coming from the upper ball joint or the lower ball joint. The lower ball joint had been replaced around 6-8 months ago and although the boot is torn, I kind of doubt that it would be squeaking already. The upper control arm bushing has been replaced (when the lower ball joint was done). Because the upper control arm has not been replaced, I'm pretty sure the upper ball joint was not. It certainly look old and dirty, although I can still see the blue color of the boot.

The previous work was done because of a similar/same noise. My inclination is that it is the upper ball joint.

From what I've read, the best approach to this is to replace the upper control arm. Is that correct? It looks like a pretty doable diy job. Is that correct?

Thanks!

 

Upper ball joint is part of the upper control arm. Don't know if you can press out the balljoint alone & replace it??

Dealer sells replacement rubber boots for the BJ. I'd get one before dirt gets in & ruins your lower BJ.

Blue color of the boot? I thought they were black... but I never owned a 1997.

 

I don't have a press so I am thinking I would be better off just replacing the entire unit (that's what my Haynes manual suggests anyway...).

If it is the upper ball joint/control arm that needs replacing, is this a safety issue or an annoyance?

Also, does anyone have any brand suggestions? On Rockauto I see Dorman for around $25. Then it jumps up to $50 for Mevotech or Raybestos (the Dorman is available at Autozone for $74). Can I just go w/Dorman or should I look at a different brand?