Manual says there is suppose to be battery voltage...all I'm getting is 0.18 ...is there a hidden fuse some where?

 

PLEASE ADD YOUR CAR INFO TO YOUR SIGNATURE LINE!

That way you don't forget to tells us what you are working on/with.

 

Sorry about that...added info

 

Found this...

DTC P1491: EGR SYSTEM MALFUNCTION

1. Perform PCM reset procedure. Connect SCS service connector. Start engine and run at 3000 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral, until radiator fan comes on. Drive vehicle for approximately 10 minutes. Maintain engine speed at 1700-2500 RPM. If DTC P1491 is indicated, go to next step. If DTC P1491 is not indicated, problem is intermittent, system is okay at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires between EGR valve connector, EGR control solenoid valve connector and PCM.

2. Disconnect No. 16 vacuum hose from top of EGR valve. Connect vacuum pump/gauge to vacuum hose. Start engine and allow to idle. If vacuum does not exist, go to step 4). If vacuum exists, disconnect EGR solenoid valve 2-pin connector. Recheck for vacuum at No. 16 vacuum hose. If vacuum does not exist, go to next step. If vacuum exists, check EGR system hose routing. If hose routing is okay, replace EGR control solenoid valve.

3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connector "A" (32-pin). Check for continuity between ground and EGR control solenoid valve 2-pin connector terminal No. 2 (Red wire). If there is continuity, repair short in Red wire between EGR control solenoid valve and PCM connector terminal A7. If continuity does not exist, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If symptom or indication goes away, replace original PCM.

4. Connect vacuum pump/gauge to EGR valve. Start engine, allow engine to idle and apply 8.0 in. Hg vacuum to EGR valve. If engine stalls or runs rough, and EGR valve holds vacuum, go to next step. If engine does not stall or run rough, or EGR valve does not hold vacuum,
replace EGR valve.

5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect EGR control solenoid valve 2-pin connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and control box connector or EGR control solenoid valve connector Black/Yellow wire. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Black/Yellow wire between EGR control solenoid and appropriate fuse located in underdash fuse/relay box.

6. Reconnect vacuum pump/gauge to No. 16 vacuum hose. Start engine and allow it to idle. Using a fused jumper wire, connect battery voltage to EGR control solenoid valve 2-pin connector Black/Yellow wire terminal. Observe vacuum gauge and connect battery ground to connect EGR control solenoid valve 2-pin connector Red wire terminal. If there is not approximately 8 in. Hg vacuum within one second, go to next step. If there is approximately 8 in. Hg vacuum within one second, go to step 9).

7. Turn ignition off. Inspect No. 16 and No. 24 vacuum hoses for proper routing, leaks or restrictions. Repair hoses as necessary. If hoses are okay, go to next step.

8. Disconnect lower hose on EGR control solenoid valve and connect a vacuum gauge to hose. Start engine and allow it to idle. If there is approximately 8.0 in. Hg vacuum, replace EGR control solenoid valve. If there is not approximately 8.0 in. Hg vacuum, repair No. 24 vacuum hose between intake manifold and EGR vacuum control valve, or replace EGR vacuum control valve.

9. Reconnect EGR control solenoid valve 2-pin connector. Reconnect No. 16 vacuum hose to EGR valve. Start engine and allow it to idle. Using a jumper wire, connect PCM connector "A" terminal A7 and terminal A10. If engine does not run rough or stall, repair open in Red wire between PCM connector terminal A7 or terminal EGR control solenoid valve. If engine runs rough or stalls, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If symptom or indication goes away, replace original PCM.


going to look at 5 this is were I have very low voltage...just not sure what fuse this ties into all are good

 

Don't take my mini rant the worng way....

Suggest looking in the Common DIY Threads (at the top of the forum) for a link to a manual you can download.

If you have done everything else and are at the point of checking the voltage at the blk/yel wire....see attached.

Then I have to ask how or why you are at this point?

 

manual I have says to

1) Detach vac hose from EGR valve and attach vac gauge.
-did this no vac -- good
2) Hooked up hand vac and connected it to the EGR valve Apply 8 in-Hg.
-did and the car stalled -- good
next step check for bat voltage and EGR control box
- did no voltage -- bad just says there should be batt voltage.

 

The manual-pic I posted-says to then check the blk/yel wire from the connector to the 7.5 amp ECU back up fuse (under hood fuse panel).

 

Well the title under my name describes me pretty good -- Newest Of Newbies

It ended up being the fuse...looked good tests bad...the reason I'm being a little annul is that there is a faint ping..ping sound when I first start up the car and go to drive off...I was thinking fuel pre ignition...read about the EGR port plugging being a possible cause for this, I cleaned the EGR ports...heading to work and I hear the same thing...the ports must have been plugged for quit awhile...every port was plugged including the port cover...so with so much plugging going on I wanted to make sure the system is running correctly. I applied voltage to the EGR solenoid and I do get vacuum at the EGR valve. Going to assume I know ASSUME the system is working properly. Before all this I was thinking exhaust leak...when I did the timing belt I pulled the down pipe so that I could also replace the oil pan gasket. I didn't use new manifold to down pipe gaskets. Purchased both gaskets and also the don nut...still had the sound. Going to try premium gas next...they say you take a hit on gas mileage with a plugged EGR...I was getting great gas mileage +33 so hoping to get better now .

to poorman212...no offence taken on the "rant" as you call it about the signature, it makes sense. You're usually the first one to reply to my posts with helpful information -- thank you.

 

This may help..

I have a 92, and I had also lost the 12 volts at my EGR control box. After studying the schematic I discoverd the power was provided by a single wire, VIA the ELD at the fuse box, from the Alternator.

I removed the connector from the alternator, and cleaned the female spade connectors with contact cleaner, and I got the 12 volts back...at least for now!

You need to look at an Electrical schematic for a 94...

 

Thank you!

Glad you figured out at least one part....not to worry you or send you on a wild chase....pull the heat shield on the exhaust manifold....look where #1 (belt end of engine) and #2 exhaust runners come together for a crack....had something close on the 95 before, cold ping/loud sound....