i have a 91 honda accord 5 speed manual. i am having a problem with it shaking. like it is idling really low or something, but my rpms seem fine at about 500rpm to 400rpm. it really shakes bad when i am driving fast and then coast no brakes and in neutral. its not tire balancing because the car does not shake while driving, and its not the brakes because it does it when i am going and then coast (it is manual transmission). i did a search on the forums and motor mounts were mentioned several times, the only thing is the car was an automatic. so would this also happen to a car with a manual tranny, or what could this be?

 

It's probably a motor mount (the rear one at that) if it's happening at idle. 400 - 500 RPMs is a little low for idle though (should be at 700 - 750; somewhere in there), that could be contributing to the vibrations. Definetly possible for it to happen to a stick shift car though.

 

thanks for the input today i was driving and i noticed something cause i was trying to figure if maybe i had warped rotors? so i tried slowing down with my e brake and it did not shake at all, but i did notice one thing it pulled to the right and i also had to pull the e brake way up and had a hard time stoping the car so if someone could help trouble shoot this thanks. so then i tried stoping by applying the brakes and the car shook very bad so i think i might have warped rotors cause i read some where on here that that could be the problem also in that case what should i do cahnge the pads and have the rotors turned or just buy new rotors. please if someone could help me out soon cause i have to go back to work in a couple of days and i wont have time to do work on it later.

 

sounds like you got different issues,,,,,,,,

if while driving you apply the brakes and the steering wheel shakes 90% of the time you got warped front rotors,, resurface or replace is needed the other 10% is coming from rear rotors or drums ( depends on car model )

the idle speed at 400-500 is too low ,, it could make engine shake,, increase idle speed to 750-800 and see if it take care of that problem..,,,,,,,,,If it still shakes and engine is not missing on any 1 cylinder,, chk the motor mounts

 

hey thanks for the advice. today i am changing the brakes and having tha rotors turned as for the motor mounts they are not that bad so i will take care of that soon after. as for the idle how can i adjust that i checked the throttle out and its cable which i am guessing the nut on it has to be tightened in order to change the idle but the problem is that the nut is all the way tightened in this case what can i do?

 

DO NOT..ADJUST THE IDLE BY THE CABLE,,,,,,,,


on the left side of the air intake tube, on the throttle body, that's where you adjust the idle from,, there is a screw, it might be covered with honda bond ,, counterclock to raise idle ..do not do it too high or engine will surge ,,you want idle at 750-800 rpm

 

about the rotors i went to start take them off and the big axle nut that holds the plate that the actual rotor bolts on to was extremly hard to take off. i had it in gear and the whole thing turned when i tried to take it off, and i was never able to take it off cause i was afraid to break something. i was wondering if there was a pin or something cause i did not see one. i also tried to adjust the idle and i turned the screw 1/2 turn counter clockwise is that too much? cause i did not notice a differnce and when i kick the ac on it shakes alot and idles even lower. thanks for all your help i am very thankful.

i saw this on another topic would it be the proper way to set the idle

"I think a 92 Accord would be Fuel Injected, my 94 civic is fuel injected. The Idle Air Control (IAC) controls the amount of air that enters the engine at idle. You can adjust this by disconnecting the IAC motor and turning a screw on the throttle body. You turn the screw until the engine is at the RPM you want it to be and then you reconnect the IAC motor. I don't know if that will work, but it might. How does the car idle during the summer?"

by not only turning the idle screw but also disconnecting the IAC motor? where would the IAC motor connection be?

 

THIS IS MY CRY FOR HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

IAC can be disconnected by unplugging its electrical connector on the back of the intake manifold.

That big nut you're reffereing to is for the hubs, right? (it's like 28mm, or something)

I use an impact wrench for that guy. A nice air powered one does the trick. That Nut has some serious torque on it. You can take a strong breaker bar and some metal pipe and make an extension for the breaker bar if you can't get to an air compressor and impact wrench, but if you plan on doing lots of car work on your own, I would just buy one if you don't have one...

Also, the nut may have some metal bent in to keep it from moving. You can take a flat tip screw driver or a small chisel to bend it out of the way.

 

that IAC looks like a black cylinder shape by the way. Just find the electrical wires going to it.

Also, make sure the car is up to operating temp before adjusting the idle.