I have a 93 accord ex coupe.....all was well, runs like a champ, 276k on the clock, new quick struts all the way around, new tires, tune up, cap/rotor/wires, had the leaky diizzy, thanks to the 'how to' I replaced both seals, all of this within the last 3 weeks........... Car still has a leaky ps pump, and i haven't tracked down the brake leak, most likely m/c.....I also had a bad thermostat cover(cracked in half) and switch about 3 mos ago you all helped with tha diag and fix oh and a bad driver side fan. So now, was running like a champ for the last 1.5 weeks..........i come home last nite, and there's a cloud of smoke behind me......it was raining so i figured it was the water kicked up from my tires.....but i came to a stop sign and WHOA a bunch of smoke came from the hood, i pulled over, popped the hood, because I could smell it was sweet, and steam........i couldn't see because it was 11 at nite, my needle was slowly creeping up, i limped it home about 2 blocks away..........flash forward this am, i found the detached(broken?) hose, but i can't get to it from the top, it is either right above the oil filter or underneath it, any ideas what hose this is??? I can't get it jakked up until this weekend so i can get undr it, i'm not gonna tow it anywhere, soooooo, was hoping someone could give me an idea of which hose it is. I was looking at the 4th gen hose diag, and it looks like hose 17?? hard to tell since it's not oriented, where i can tell if that's the correct hose.....

help!!

Thanks in advance!!

 

I like a "where is waldo" post

Of course you need to confirm....just above the oil filter...I'm with #13 in your pic....or Gates pn 18841.

When you can, pull the intake hose between the air filter and the TB....this will give a better view of the area from the top.

 

I took the air intake off, I still can't see it, if i look down in between the openings behind the engine, that's where i see the hose, if i look from the drivers side.... it's right above the oil filter.....i don't know the terminology on how to explain, I know the front is the manifold, does the rear of the engine have those same pipes coming out??? I want to say it's under the fuel rail.....would it be easier to fix that hose from underneath??? I want to try to fix it myself, since it's friggin $80 to tow the car to the mechanic......

thanks for your reply....

 

I also forgot to mention, i'm sure this will help, sorry for this bit of missing info....this morning when i went to start car to see if i could figure out where leak was, i filled up the car with water, i left the cap off, because at first i was thinking blown head, and was told if i start the car, i'll have a geyser out of the rad......well no geyser, (phew), since the car was cold it was on high idle, but then it started going up and down, fluctuating, it freaked me out, so i turned off the car.........

now that the car is full of water, it doesn't do that fluctuating thing anymore, i started the car twice today, and let it come to warm......i did it once no heater, and the second time heater full blast............

thanks!

 

I was hoping that removing the intake tube to the tb would give you a view that would let you see which it was.

Being "safe", you can raise the car and see if you can find the source from under it.....be sure to inspect the hoses to and from the heater core.....again I was guessing before, you'll need to verify.

 

Very good!!! it is Hose 13, while i'm in there i'm gonna do 14 as well, so now, any suggestions on how to get to it???? I can reach the connection to the one on the oil filter housing, but the spring clip that holds the other end is twisted up, how the hell do i get to that? and of course house 14, can get to one end but the other end is up....do i need to drain oil, remove oil filter? I can't seem to go from the top....i'm look at all of this from under the car.........

thanks!!

 

So, I wish it was this easy to get at, but....this is what i'm talking about, I found this picture......i need to replace that curly hose and the other hose connected to it.....it's not their obviously....

 

First....I got lucky with a guess.

To get to them...pulling the oil filter will give some added room,,,,be careful of the threads as you don't want to mess those up.

Since the hose is going to be replaced, remember you can cut it out of the way. Twisting the clamp - hope you buy new ones - that can be done by hand sometimes...just enough to spin it so you can use something else to get it off. With the hose cut you might be able to grab the hose and twist it to get the clamp to spin in a position where you can get to it better.

Sorry I don't have a "trick" that will make it easy......get the hoses, new clamps. Get the car in the air - BE SAFE - and "get at it"....

 

thanks, that's what i've been reading, I wish i could drive it to my step dad's, he has a pit, we could get underneath it, but that's a 20 min drive, and i'm afraid of doing worse to the car.....the only way i'm going to get it up, is on some jack stands....ok, so i don't have to drain the oil from the car? just pull the filter, whatever oil in the filter is what will come out, right? this is going to be intersting......

thanks for the advice.........you wouldn't happen to know the part # of the hose that goes from the water valve to the engine do you? when I fixed my dizzy, i saw the hose underneath, oil doesn't like rubber too much does it...... I can't find the part #...

thanks!

 

The one under the dist.....I think that is #16 (I'm going blind) in your pic...gates pn is 18021.

No you don't have to drain the oil.....just replace the oil lost when you remove the filter (~1/4 quart, maybe?)....and again be sure not to damage the threads.

Humm, a 20 minute drive. You have to make the call....I can't see or know how bad the leak is so hard for me to call....one, two, three stops along the way (20 minutes now an hour?) and letting it cool and adding water - yes save the coolant until the leaks are fixed - to be able to work on it in a better place......again you have to make that call.....as you know, over heat the engine and BAD things happen.

Last, when done, be sure to bleed the air from the cooling system using the bleeder on the t-stat housing with the heat set to max.

EDIT: where are you located....HI ? If so tell Eugine at AWI I said "hi"