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Need Help! 94 Accord Lx!

Old Jul 29, 2014 | 10:50 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Jonasg93
The fuel pump does come on.

Check engine light stays on when the car is running.

When i short the connector it does stay on.

Will check the fuses later.

The car idles high at start up. Its about 1500. Then when put into gear it goes down to 500. When the ac is on it goes down even more. I just fixed the ac and notice my car now dies every now and then at a stop sign or red light. Replaced the coil and no luck. Cleaned the iacv and that didnt work either.
On a cold start up. Hondas of that generation have a fitv (fast idle thermal valve) to help promote fast warming up. That's why it idles high on start up. Once warmed up the idle should go back down to normal. As far as not starting on first crank I would replace a fuel filter and see if it helps. It's something that should be done anyways and it might make a difference.
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 09:04 AM
  #12  
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Replaced bad fuses and fuel filter and still wont start on first crank.
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 09:31 AM
  #13  
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When hot? When cold? Or all the time?
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 12:38 PM
  #14  
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When turning the key to the II position, does the check engine light turn on for about two seconds, then turn off?

Different terms are used interchangeably for a car that will not start, so lets make sure we are talking about the same problem.

When I turn the key to start my car, the starter cranks the engine. When the engine fires up, I release the key, because the engine is running on its own.

When you car will not start, does the starter not crank the engine? Will the engine not fire up? Or does the engine cut out right after it fires up?

Tell us what fuses are blown. Fuses usually don't wear out and blown when there is excess current due to some kind of short or overload on the circuit.
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 03:59 PM
  #15  
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@ Roader: all the time!

Im not sure what the fuses go to. The fuse box does not show a diagram. But there were 20s.

When i turn the key to the II position SOMETIMES it will turn on for two seconds then turn off. Other times it will come on then go off.

When i turn to start the car the starter cranks the engine. It fires up for a second sputters and dies. 2 or 3 trys later it finally turns on and runs like a champ!


Another thing i noticed is when i put the car in reverse, I hear a high pitch noise. I think its the starter. Im not sure if it will have anything to do with the starting problem.

Would the transmission have anything to do with this? It slips going into third gear and takes forever to down shift when slowing down.
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #16  
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When i turn the key to the II position SOMETIMES it will turn on for two seconds then turn off. Other times it will come on then go off.
Those sound like the same thing to me.

Will the car start up normally when you have the CEL turn on for only two seconds?
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 07:28 PM
  #17  
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Does it start any better with the throttle open? There's a lot of little breather holes in the throttle body that can get clogged up. Maby you can get some carb cleaner and clean that up if it hasn't been done. And Have you put a vaccume gauge on the car yet.
Also have you cleaned and adjusted you FIT valve. They work out pretty far over time

Just throwing some suggestions out there
 
Old Aug 3, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #18  
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The car wont start either way. Ill clean the throttle bottle in the morning and let you know. And no i havent put a vaccum gage on it yet. What is that testing?

And i havent adjusted the FIT valve.
 
Old Aug 4, 2014 | 03:33 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jonasg93
The car wont start either way. Ill clean the throttle bottle in the morning and let you know. And no i havent put a vaccum gage on it yet. What is that testing?

And i havent adjusted the FIT valve.
A vaccume gauge tests for vaccume leaks\ air leaks in places where it shouldnt be.. intake manifolds leaks throttle body leaks and other leaks in the other vaccume line. Which everything runs off vaccume lines pretty much

And I would adjust your FIT valve just to be safe also. Once you get it apart you should be able to screw it back in the whole way. They some how unscrew their selves over time. Their is is a few tutorials on the forums. And I would do that before you put a vaccume gauge on the car. Cause if it's loose it's gonna read a vaccume leak cause all it does it let's more air into the motor until it's warmed up. But if it's unscrewed alot when the plug closes. It's still gonna let alot of air in. It runs off your antifreeze temperature I believe. It's been a while since I cleaned mine. And when you clean your throttle body make sure all those little breather holes are open and free. And open the throttle plate and make sure theirs no gunk built up where it closes
 
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