New guy needs help (accord)
 

After doing some google-fu, I came accross your site, hoping someone can throw out some suggestions. My fiances 98 accord(4cyl auto) just randomly killed one day while cruising about 55mph. No sputtering to notice, just kill and realized when car started to slow down. Im not getting spark to the plugs. I changed the ignition switch, and the ignition module inside the distributor cap. Ive hooked up 3 different code readers and they all come up "no link". It did throw a code becore be because I had it checked a few times already. Anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks guys for any input, I really need this thing back on the road for the sake of my truck!

Also: the rotor does spin when trying to turn over, so im assuming belt didnt break (I am far from a mechanic)

How did you check spark?

Compression OK? (at least to the extent that you can hear the starter strain against each cylinder when you crank)

Turn the key to ON but not immediately to START. Can you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds then quit?

Spark plugs have any fuel on them if you remove a plug right after cranking?

Stick a screwdriver into the coil, where the wire runs to the dizzy, crank, does it spark?
If not get volt meter check resistance between top left pin on plug and output, should be 16k ohms - 20k ohms.
if test passes check voltage between corresponding coil plug on the harness with the key on between the ground terminal and the voltage pin should be 12 volts, come back with results

I checked for spark with a screwdriver, also a test light. It does turn over fast, which is why I checked multiple times that the rotor and valves would move. I did hear the fuel pump, and did spray a tinyyy bit of starter fluid in intake (Had to try) and it still just turns over.thanks

so there is spark at the coil or no?

The coil is hot with the test light.

Check spark at the end of the plug wires, in case the distributor rotor is not making good contact. (maybe you already checked it that way?) Did you lose the little graphite button inside the distributor cap, which springs against the center of the rotor?

Yes thats where I checked for spark(out the wire). I never noticed about the spring, it is something I can check when I get home this weekend. I was planning on going pull off as many used parts of anything it could possiby be and try swapping them out(like dist cap, crank sensor)

I also noticed it turns over pretty fast, sounds like faster than normal

Pull the dist cap, turn the engine over....be sure the dist rotor is spinning/turning.

Yes it is, first thing I checked when I noticed.

Missed that fact in first post,,,,,sorry.

Is the clock working.....just wondering if the fuse blew - no link to ecu when reading codes.

Edit: Also please add your car info to your signature......that way we don't have to go back to the first post to remember.

Sorry, will try and add it in. Didnt check clock, will check tomorrow when I get to car. I just picked up a cps at the junkyard, will try that tom and hopefully have good results!

Do yall suggest take the wheel and fender well off to get to it, or from under the hood? The one at junkyard was most all apart already.

Since it cranks fast, maybe check compression. Maybe the timing belt broke some teeth, got out of time, but hasn't completely broken.

The clock does work, I have the crank pulley off to change CPS, will finish that up today. Would it be possible to take timing belt cover off and inspect it, turn it over, inspect it some more? Or is it not that simple? Thanks for all of the replies guys!

If you've already got the crank pulley off, then go ahead & remove the upper & lower timing covers. Check all the cam-timing marks to see whether the timing belt skipped. Inspect the teeth on the belt, or just use this as an excuse to put on a new timing belt.

Normally, the most difficult part of the timing belt job is removing the crankshaft pulley.

Okay, I will go ahead and check that also, and and pray all is well!

A guy at work swears up and down its the computer, beings when hooked up to read code on 3 dif machines, they all say no link? Is he full of **** or couldit possibly be something else?

A simple broken wire in the harness over to the OBD-2 connector can explain that problem.

I find lots of folks refuse to consider the possibility of bad connections until after they've already replaced a handful of parts.

I did replace the ignition switch (harness) under the steering column, I may have messed something up down there..great

Well, wasnt the sensor... And the timing belt looked fine... Debating whether to bring it somewheres and hope they troubleshoot the pronlem instead of parts guessing, or parts guess myself

Like I said earlier, check for voltage at the distributor power plug on the harness at the key 2 position. If there is your problem is internal to the distributor. Report back