General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

New here with a simple question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 02-15-2016, 06:51 PM
TonyPa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pa.
Posts: 8
Default New here with a simple question

Juat bought my first Honda. Must admit, pretty impressed with this car. Hope they make some goodies for it. It has 180k on it. But a new head gasket and timing belt,, balancer belt, and complete tune up. Mine is a ....
1992 Honda Accord LX 2.2 Automatic.
I am changing my radiator tomorrow. And figured I might as well change the thermostat also.
I am also going to replace the coolant temperature sensor under the diistributor, since it gets cranky on cold starts.
Does anyone know the torque/ft lbs. For the thermostat housing?? I want it tight enough, but at a glance they look like 10mm bolts I dont want to break them.
Also the torque on the coolant temp sensor under the distributor??. The one that goes to the computer, not the gauge. Any advice is appreciated. I hope this motor lasts a long time. It was well cared for.
 
  #2  
Old 02-15-2016, 07:11 PM
Dr. Drivability's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,149
Default

13 ft. lbs on the temp sensor and 9 ft. lbs on the stat housing.

What exactly is "cranky" on cold starts?
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-2016, 07:29 PM
TonyPa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pa.
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by Dr. Drivability
13 ft. lbs on the temp sensor and 9 ft. lbs on the stat housing.

What exactly is "cranky" on cold starts?
Thanks very much!! Cranky as in. Cranks for a while, then finally starts. Then a little rough, then smooths out. After 5 minutes of running it starts up perfectly. Never a problem for except cold starts.
I figured I would try that part since it is cheap and seemed to be what I found most using the search function here. Something about that sensor signalling the ECU for more fuel when its cold? I dunno.
 

Last edited by TonyPa; 02-15-2016 at 07:31 PM.
  #4  
Old 02-15-2016, 08:38 PM
PAhonda's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 15,620
Default

The cold start issue has nothing to do with the coolant temperature sensor. I only replace sensors that test bad or out of range. Sometimes cheap aftermarket sensors may be bad out of the box. Please don't randomly throw parts at the car, because it can make for a headache later on.

On your next cold start, turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Wait for the check engine light to do the bulb check (turns on for about two seconds, then turns off). You should hear the fuel pump turn for two seconds. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound from the back seat, so turn off blower, radio and listen carefully. Repeat turning the key to the II position a 2-3 times. You want to build up fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Then try to start the car and report back to us the results.

Use a thermostat from Honda. They open at the proper temperature and last for a very long time. Also, watch some videos from ericthecarguy on bleeding the air from the coolant.
 
  #5  
Old 02-15-2016, 08:48 PM
TonyPa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pa.
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by PAhonda
The cold start issue has nothing to do with the coolant temperature sensor. I only replace sensors that test bad or out of range. Sometimes cheap aftermarket sensors may be bad out of the box. Please don't randomly throw parts at the car, because it can make for a headache later on.

On your next cold start, turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Wait for the check engine light to do the bulb check (turns on for about two seconds, then turns off). You should hear the fuel pump turn for two seconds. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound from the back seat, so turn off blower, radio and listen carefully. Repeat turning the key to the II position a 2-3 times. You want to build up fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Then try to start the car and report back to us the results.

Use a thermostat from Honda. They open at the proper temperature and last for a very long time. Also, watch some videos from ericthecarguy on bleeding the air from the coolant.
I did buy the stat from Honda, someone posted that somewhere on here, so I didnt want to buy an aftermarket.
I did try and build fuel pressure and pretty much what you posted. It didnt make a difference. I was using the search function before posting on this. The only reason I bought the temp sensor, is because there wasca thread on here where it fixed the guys cold start issue. I dont know wether to return it or put it now. I thought that would do the trick.
I can get the car started, just cranks for a while, and then finally starts. After that, it starts right up quickly.
I will check youtube for ericthecarguy? If thats what you meant. I am new here. Is there anything different on these cars? I uaually leave the rad cap off and let the stat open, and fully warmed up and keep adding until full.
 
  #6  
Old 02-15-2016, 11:23 PM
Prospector's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 712
Default

Welcome to the forum, Tony Pa
 
  #7  
Old 02-15-2016, 11:25 PM
TonyPa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pa.
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by Prospector
Welcome to the forum, Tony Pa
Thank you very much!!
 
  #8  
Old 02-16-2016, 08:01 AM
JimBlake's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 18,398
Default

Your F-series engine should have a bleed screw on the thermostat housing. Air tends to hang around in that location, and just running with the cap off doesn't get it out from there.
 
  #9  
Old 02-16-2016, 09:16 AM
TonyPa's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pa.
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by JimBlake
Your F-series engine should have a bleed screw on the thermostat housing. Air tends to hang around in that location, and just running with the cap off doesn't get it out from there.
Thank you. I just read that. Supposed to be a 12mm bolt or something near the stat housing. I will definitely do it that way. I read about loosening that up, pouring anti freeze in, until it comes out that hole, then tighten up and top of and run it. And recheck.
 
  #10  
Old 02-16-2016, 09:54 AM
Dr. Drivability's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,149
Default

Originally Posted by TonyPa
Thanks very much!! Cranky as in. Cranks for a while, then finally starts. Then a little rough, then smooths out. After 5 minutes of running it starts up perfectly. Never a problem for except cold starts.
I figured I would try that part since it is cheap and seemed to be what I found most using the search function here. Something about that sensor signalling the ECU for more fuel when its cold? I dunno.
Those cold start issues sound more like a fuel issue than anything else. Probably leaky injector(s) or a residual fuel pressure drop issue.

Could be a secondary ignition system issue too. (plugs/wires cap/rotor)
 


Quick Reply: New here with a simple question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:55 AM.