Ok, I am stumped on my 1996 accord. 2.2l.
1) On a repair job I just swapped motors; installed one from an automatic into a 5-speed, (3 harness plugs unuseable). Motor came with intake and associated harnesses/sensors attached.
2) I have NO CEL light on the dash with key on, (perhaps not there initially, and all harness grounds checked).
3) Cooling fans stay on with key 'off ', but not with key 'on '. They cycle normal when running.
4) It won't Rev over 2900 rpms; just fluctuates at that point.
Jeez, a tad lost on this one!
Any advice appreciated!!!
TY, Hondaddy

 

I'm the slow one so let's take this a few steps at a time.

When you first turn the key to "on"/pos II - does the CEL light come on for a few seconds and then go off? This is a bulb check system, along with a few other things but we won't get into those just yet.

Sounds like the car is in limp mode. Get a code reader and check for stored codes and post the actual code(s) and not a description of them......OBD-II port is behind the ash tray.

 

TY Poorman212. No, I have no CEL light at any time. I have a code reader and will check in a couple minutes ....

 

No CEL light at anytime and the car will start up and run - sounds like the bulb is out or someone "covered" it up.

So yes, plug the code reader in and see what comes up.

 

Perhaps the bulb is fried, (not covered up). I will yank the cluster in the morn. Lots of 'tweeker' work has been done on this thing, so challenges are peeked. (No more of these kinda jobs for me; "oh death, where is thy sting", ...Macbeth (lol).

Thanks Poorman.

 

Again if you can get your hands on an OBD-II code reader it can read the codes even if the bulb is burnt out or covered up.

If you don't have a code reader - if the car will drive somewhat, many parts stores (outside of CA) will read codes for free. Just be sure to get the actual code(s) from them and not "their description" of the codes.

Once you have the codes post them for us and we can go from there.

 

I have a code reader and it shows NO Codes ... (sorry, thought I posted this several hours ago ... must not of hit the 'reply' button). Thank you !

 

Ok, this is going to get a little interesting.

No codes and won't get above ~2800 rpm. In you other thread I know you said that you checked the MAP and TPS connections but PLEASE check again and post the colors of the three wires going to the MAP sensor.

Next, there is a very important ground on the drivers end of the plenum (G101). Verify that it is connected, clean and tight.

 

Ok. Wires to the MAP are Yellow, green/white stripe, and a white. I re-cleaned the ground on the driver side of the plenum. Also, I removed and cleaned the IAC and Throttle Body. Coolant topped off, thermostat opening. No vacuum leaks. Still can only get 2800 rpms out of it. Ugh!

 

Mentioned this in your other thread. Did you check the injector resistor bank? There is another connector that is identical that you can easily switch.

There are also some connectors near where the passenger shock mounts in the engine bay that are identical.

Does your code scanner also have the ability to read sensor data?

Did the check engine light turn on at all before the engine swap?

Check your ECU fuse. It is a 10 amp and I think it is in the interior fuse box. There is also the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box.