No fuel, keep blowing the #1 fuse!!!
#1
No fuel, keep blowing the #1 fuse!!!
I'm trying to get a '88 accord LX (carburated) running. I replaced the fuel pump and had it running for 5-10 mins then it shut off. From my investigations I, when I remove the fuel cutoff relay, I get 12.2v from the #2 slot and 11.1v from the #4. When I checked the #1 fuse it was blown! If I replace the fuse, the fuel pump will run fine for 5-10 mins then blow again.
From my limited knowledge of electrical systems, I've come to the conclusion that I'm having a short/resistance issue but, between the Haynes and an online manual I can't find out how to test the system with my multimeter. Is there a complete wiring diagram for these cars?? Has anyone else had blown #1 fuse issues? If so, what was the solution??
Any and all advice is welcomed!!
From my limited knowledge of electrical systems, I've come to the conclusion that I'm having a short/resistance issue but, between the Haynes and an online manual I can't find out how to test the system with my multimeter. Is there a complete wiring diagram for these cars?? Has anyone else had blown #1 fuse issues? If so, what was the solution??
Any and all advice is welcomed!!
#2
I have a somewhat complete wire diagram...the only issue is that part of it is from the on line manuals and an OLD Chilton Total Car Care book...so between six pieces I can usually figure things out.
Anyway, on an '88, the under dash #1 fuse powers a few things (charge light, volt reg, fan timer, solenoid valves, speed sensor, ect). Double check the wires at the pump. Measure the resistance of both (why was the pump replaced?).
Not by the book but an idea. Pull the relay, hot wire the pump (yes be careful). Start the car and let it run....does the fuse blow?
Anyway, on an '88, the under dash #1 fuse powers a few things (charge light, volt reg, fan timer, solenoid valves, speed sensor, ect). Double check the wires at the pump. Measure the resistance of both (why was the pump replaced?).
Not by the book but an idea. Pull the relay, hot wire the pump (yes be careful). Start the car and let it run....does the fuse blow?
Last edited by poorman212; 06-06-2011 at 10:04 PM. Reason: correct info
#3
Like poorman212 stated, I would check the connector at the fuel pump. Also, check the main relay harness by disconnecting the harness connector and testing for continuity between the black wire in #2 of the connector and ground. There are few more test shown in the online manual.
#4
The #1 fuse ( not the one in the engine compartment, the one under the dash) is labeled fuel pump/altenator
poorman, when you say hotwire the pump, are you referring to pulling the fuel cut off relay and jumping #1 to #2??
redbull, could you give me a better idea of where the "main relay harness" is located?? (never mind, it helped after I looked at your attachments)
Is section 12 of the service manual only for FI cars? The online manual that I have only goes up to 12-58, which one are you guys using?
Thanks guys!!!
poorman, when you say hotwire the pump, are you referring to pulling the fuel cut off relay and jumping #1 to #2??
redbull, could you give me a better idea of where the "main relay harness" is located?? (never mind, it helped after I looked at your attachments)
Is section 12 of the service manual only for FI cars? The online manual that I have only goes up to 12-58, which one are you guys using?
Thanks guys!!!
Last edited by Da Flash; 05-28-2011 at 02:56 PM. Reason: clarification
#6
You have a carb'd motor so you do not have a main relay.
Yes, read the "box" in the chilton's wrong, dash fuse box.
What I was proposing was to run a wire straight from a 12v battery to the hot side of the fuel pump. If you have a spare battery, car, or a really long wire from the car's battery to the fuel pump.
Yes, read the "box" in the chilton's wrong, dash fuse box.
What I was proposing was to run a wire straight from a 12v battery to the hot side of the fuel pump. If you have a spare battery, car, or a really long wire from the car's battery to the fuel pump.
#7
You have a carb'd motor so you do not have a main relay.
Yes, read the "box" in the chilton's wrong, dash fuse box.
What I was proposing was to run a wire straight from a 12v battery to the hot side of the fuel pump. If you have a spare battery, car, or a really long wire from the car's battery to the fuel pump.
Yes, read the "box" in the chilton's wrong, dash fuse box.
What I was proposing was to run a wire straight from a 12v battery to the hot side of the fuel pump. If you have a spare battery, car, or a really long wire from the car's battery to the fuel pump.
Keep the suggestions coming!
#8
You have a carb'd motor so you do not have a main relay.
Yes, read the "box" in the chilton's wrong, dash fuse box.
What I was proposing was to run a wire straight from a 12v battery to the hot side of the fuel pump. If you have a spare battery, car, or a really long wire from the car's battery to the fuel pump.
Yes, read the "box" in the chilton's wrong, dash fuse box.
What I was proposing was to run a wire straight from a 12v battery to the hot side of the fuel pump. If you have a spare battery, car, or a really long wire from the car's battery to the fuel pump.
Hey poorman, I reread your post after the fam stopped bothering me and tried what you suggested, I ran a long wire from the battery and grounded the pump. I ran the car for a few minutes and checked the fuse under the dash, it was blown again. What I get from that is that whatever it is thats blowing the fuse is probably not in the fuel pump wiring.
What do you think??