WALL OF TEXT INCOMING, TL;DR at the end.

Hey there, got a wonderful problem for yall. I'm planning on working on this car this week so will have time to try tests. So here is the story, I'm a semi-amateur auto tech (work at a shop but no ASE):

Parent's 95 accord was making a groaning noise coasting on uphills coming off the freeway from 65 to around 50. Also, the idle was rough. Attempted IACV cleaning to no improvement. Stealership quoted a 4figure price to replace all four motor mounts. I offered to replace two and see if that fixed it. (Front and rear). In the meantime the upper radiator port broke off, so replaced the radiator as well.

Coasting groan is gone (front mount was bad), but the idle is still rough and have a bunch of new issues. Accidentally left the VSS unplugged but sorted that out eventually.

New issues:
-D4 light does not come on while driving (lights up during dash-light test though)
-Trans does not kick-down. The cable seems to be adjusted correctly, lever isn't damaged or bent.
-Revs will occasionally move between 2 to 3k at 65 with no apparent speed change.
-(Likely unrelated) ABS light master code 1 is on. (pump motor overrun) Will be testing harness for shorts/voltage this week, no apparent leaks.
-On one occasion the vehicle stalled at a traffic light.


I've already tested the lockup solenoid and the harness to the computer for that solenoid. The ATF level is good & appears clean. I plan on:
-Testing all solenoids while the vehicle is running (system at pressure).
-Wiring test lights to the solenoids & testdrive.
-Double-checking VSS, solenoid, and temperature sensor connecters.
-Burping the coolant.
From there I might:
-Check the modulator pressure.
-Check the thermostat.
-Remove & inspect solenoids.

Focusing on fixing the shifting & rpm issues, as well as the ABS light. Rough idle can wait. Oh man, hopefully somebody has some suggestions or previous experience?



TL;DR:
Following F/R motor mount & rad replace. No D4 light when driving, no kickdown (cable is adjusted), revs changing while @65 w/ no speed change. One stall. ABS pump overrun. Will attempt checking solenoids @ pressure, burping coolant, checking sensor wires, & testdrive w/ testlights (solenoids). Suggestions?

 

'94 - '95 still had a separate transmission control computer, like the 4th gen's. Reset the ECU by removing the radio/backup fuse under the hood and see if the problem gets better. If so then it's likely a TCU problem. More info here:

techauto(dot)awardspace(dot)com/transmission(dot)html

 

Attempt reset, no difference. Rev hunting appears at lower speeds while coasting/braking. Appears that the car is trying to choose a gear. Will follow up with testlights.

 

How is the lever on the trans - throttle control/kick down? I know you said it "seems" to be adjusted properly.

The service manual has the details, there is a sticky at the top of this section where you can download one for a 94 which will be the same as what you are working on. High level (use the manual), the lever should be all the way down/at rest when the throttle is closed. The cable should start to move just as throttle starts to open.

Last, a drain and fill or two using Honda Trans fluid can't hurt anything.

 

Kickdown cable is adjusted properly according to pages 14-169/170. Begins to move immediately with the throttle and has free play at full throttle.

Checked solenoids under pressure, they actuate fine.

Will burp the coolant system at work tomorrow. I'm at a total loss though.

 

I'll suggest some basics.

Disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables. Use a wire brush or sandpaper.

There is an important ground on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Disconnect and clean like the battery cable. I attached a picture below.

What does the check engine light do when you check codes now? How about the D4 light?

Since you replaced the rear motor mound, make sure you connected the vacuum hose to the actuator for the rear mount. Check the vacuum hoses near where you recently did work and make sure they are routed to the proper place. Each vacuum hose has a number printed on it that makes tracing the hoses easier.

Here is that pic.

 

When I jump the connecter & key in position two: one short ABS blink, an unblinking check engine light and an unblinking SRS light; the D4 light is off.

Checked the battery terminals & cables, they're clean. Cleaned both sides of the ground wire & the plenum. Inspected all the cables shown on the diagram under the hood, all as they should be. Checked the mount vacuum line, its plugged in. Found one hose clamp which wasn't in place, installed it and test drive (after an ECU reset); no change.

Burped the radiator today, some small air pockets but nothing huge. Also no change after an ECU reset. I'm resetting the ECU by pulling the 7.5A radio backup fuse with the car off.

Thanks for the help so far yall. I'm going to double check all the vacuum lines tomorrow, was in a bit of a rush today. Anything else coming to mind?

 

Symptoms don't match anything on the electrical faults diagnostic table which are generally repairable faults, but do match symptoms on the hydraulic fault diagnostic table. Unfortunately all these hydraulic faults; hydraulic pump, ATF Clogged, etc require trans removal to resolve.

If you remove trans, you should consider an overhaul or replacement w/ overhauled unit rather than a fix given amount of work to remove/install.

good luck

 

At the risk of beating a dead horse, from the first post:From the link above:If it were my car I think I'd crack open the TCU case to look for leaking caps and/or burned resistors before replacing the trans.

 

Opened the TCU today, looked fine. No smell, no swollen/burnt components (I used to work at an electronics store). Also double checked and had someone else check the vacuum lines, they're good.

In other news, my sister drove the car today and it stalled. She was driving the car up a slight incline, and the tach was bouncing around worse than usual. She also reported a lack of power. After taking an exit the car stalled and would not start. After a few minutes the car started again. After that she drove the rest of the way home, manually shifting the transmission. When in D3 attempting to accelerate up a hill, the car would not rev past the usual 3rd-4th shift point, and was shaking badly.

Ahhh this is getting ridiculous. My parents are saying they'll just take it to the dealership, I think that is probably the best bet at this point. If anybody else has any suggestions let me know. Thanks for all the help!