So, after replacing head with a reman I have adjusted my valves three times. The last time about two hours ago. I have been reading and watching videos wanting to master this procedure. When the head first went on valves were pretty quiet. I re adjusted thinking I probably was off in adjustment due to it being my first time. Long story short, I was getting a little noise so I studied up and tried it tonite. I checked where they were adjusted before I changed them and several were extremely tight and some very loose. I adjusted and checked all with the next larger feeler gauge. Started car and have quite a racket going on. Can I remove spark plug wires one at a time to isolate the cylinder? Please listen to noise on video. Thanks

 

That doesn't sound good, so I'd recommend that you do not run the engine.

Before you did the adjustment, what were the clearances?

How are you getting each cylinder up to top dead center to do the adjustment?

 

Using a 19 mm wrench on power steering pump. Starting at TDC and rotating camshaft 90 degrees for each cylinder. I didn't write them down. How would I know what they were when they are of. Just keep sliding different feelers in till one fits?

 

Sounds like you have the right idea on how to do this.

Just to make sure you aren't missing something, please verify the cam and crank are still timed properly at TDC on cylinder 1. Only turn the power steering pump in the direction the front tires would go when in drive. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. Cylinder 1 is the closest to the driver's side tire. What feeler gauge are you using to adjust the exhaust and intake valves?

When you tighten the nut after the adjustment, are you making sure the bolt is not moving?

When I adjust my valves, I loosen the adjusting bolt and start tightening it down until I can start to feel a difference when sliding the feeler gauge back and forth. Then I loosen exactly one whole turn and repeat, until I am sure that I got it correct. If the slot on the adjustment points to say 1 o'clock after I repeat a few times, then I'm good. I'll turn it to 2 o'clock to feel for too much drag.

 

I'm using the 94 Accord shop manual via download. I also am referencing a YouTube video by a guy named Eric. Says he's a car guy. What you mentioned about the bolt moving is interesting though. I am using .010 for intake and .012 for exhaust. I was having difficulty getting, exhaust valves for example, to have a slight drag and and tighten down then insert a .013 and I could still get that to barely slide in. I don't know, do you think I damaged something.

 

I am also using a 3/8 extension to verify that the cylinder I'm working on is at TDC by inserting into spark plug well and letting it come all the way up.

 

Ericthecarguy has good videos, and I have watched a lot of them. He gives good advice.

For example. When adjusting the intake valve, use the 0.010 gauge and tighten the bolt until you feel a slight resistance when sliding the gauge back and forth. Slide the gauge around at different angles to make sure you aren't at a low/high spot on the valve. If the valve is perfectly adjusted, you can probably insert a 0.012 gauge and still move it around, but you would have more drag. Make sense?

Definitely make sure that you hold the bolt in place with your screwdriver when you tighten down the nut, so you don't accidentally over tighten the valve.

You definitely don't want to run the engine with a tight valve as you can burn the valve. If ran the engine for a short period of time, then you should be ok.

Another thought about the valves. The exhaust valves are closer to the front bumper, while the intake valves are closer to the windshield. Just want to make sure you don't have them reversed when doing your adjustment.

 

No, I definitely have them in the right order. I am back inside checking again now. This has me pretty freaked out after the tons of hours I have in this engine. Did that sound to you like a burnt valve? I don't know what one sounds like. Thanks for your help by the way

 

Wow, just got to number 2 exhaust valves and could fit a .026 gauge in there. Both of them WAY out. I really jacked that up. Hopefully that was the only issue. That was the vicinity of the noise. Here's to hopin!

 

That was it. I readjusted and triple checked all valves and started her up. No noise, just sweet Honda purring! Thank you Pahonda for walking me back through it. I think it's vital that anyone new to adjusting valves use the next size higher feeler to know that one is snug but not so tight that it won't fit, then go back to the correct size for final tightening.