My 2005 ex coupe is experiencing all windows not working and both power locks not working. I have checked all the fuses. I don’t want to buy a master switch at $200 unless I need to . Any suggestions on wiring around the child lockout switch or running a new ground wire to the switch?

 

Do you have a multi-meter or voltmeter to do a little testing?

Problem can be different things; such as the driver's door multiplex control unit (incorporated as part of the driver's door master switch assembly); or a break in the wires going to the master switch, or something else.

If you have something to test the voltage and/or continuity, this will help narrow down the problem area. Otherwise, I can still instructed you to do tests without a multi-meter or voltmeter; that may or may not be conclusive.

 

Yes I have a multi meter. Thank you for the reply.

 

[that would be great to get the info on testing with a multi meter. ofQUOTE=redbull-1;390803]Do you have a multi-meter or voltmeter to do a little testing?

Problem can be different things; such as the driver's door multiplex control unit (incorporated as part of the driver's door master switch assembly); or a break in the wires going to the master switch, or something else.

If you have something to test the voltage and/or continuity, this will help narrow down the problem area. Otherwise, I can still instructed you to do tests without a multi-meter or voltmeter; that may or may not be conclusive.[/QUOTE]

 

Start with the simple stuff first.

You said you checked the fuses, but did you test for power on both sides of the fuse with the fuse in place? The video below gives a description using a test light. You can do the same with a volt meter, just use the battery negative for your black ground wire on your volt meter. Then touch the red on to each tab on top of the fuse. Turn the key to the II position to do these tests.

Start by checking the under dash fuses #24, 25, 26, and 27. They should all be 20 amp fuses.

Let us know if you have 12V on each tab of the fuses.

 

Thank you for the suggestion. I will try the fuses using a volt meter.

 

1. This video shows how to pry up the driver's door master switch.


2. At the 23-P connector for the door multiplex control unit, at terminal pin cavity no. 10 (grn/wht wire); check for power; there should be battery voltage at all times. Grn/wht wire is a green colored wire with a white stripe running through it. -- Since the connector is the female side, the terminal pin numbering is from the wire side.

 

Thank you. I will try this tonight.

 

Thank you. I will try this tonight.

 

If there is battery power at cavity terminal no 10 (grn/wht wire), then try this with the 23-connector still disconnected from the driver's door switch (multiplex control unit):

1. With a spare piece of wire, insert one end into cavity terminal no. 10 (grn/wht) and the other end into cavity terminal no. 11 (red/yel). - Does the driver's window go down?

2. If it goes down, to raise it back, insert the spare piece of wire into cavity terminal no. 10 (grn/wht) and the other end into cavity terminal no. 23 (red/blk) - The driver's window should go up.