Oil Filter question
I am about to perform my first oil change on my 2013 Honda Accord Touring model (the first was done by the dealership). The owner's manual provides no part number for the required oil filter, however. I shopped on Amazon and found this model: 15400-PLM-A02, which Amazon assures me is the correct one. I'm not 100% on trusting Amazon about this, so if anyone knows if this is the correct one, I'd appreciate a thumbs up. Also, it got me to thinking about other filters, such as Fram, etc., which I've always used on past vehicles. I listened to a Honda spiel about the horrors of not using Honda filters, so I thought I just toss the question out--are Honda filters really made to more exacting requirements? TIA :)
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That is the OEM part number. You can look up Honda part numbers on sites like hondapartsnow.com.
My rule of thumb is that you can never go wrong with the OEM honda parts. I'm sure that most aftermarket brands won't cause issues, but the build quality of the filter may vary. There is a ton of information on the web where people disassemble and evaluate oil filters. I'm sure you'll get a lot of opinions on here. I typically stick with OEM for the filters. I've used the PureOne Purlator and Bosch filters available at the parts store too. |
Purolator Pure-One number is PL 14610
Mobil-1 number is M1-110 I've used both of those, they're good. |
Thanks for your help! :)
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I had a gift card for a Honda dealership parts department, so I bought oil filters. The parts guy said Honda has used the same filter for all their engines since 1987.
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Originally Posted by Corvair
(Post 370990)
I had a gift card for a Honda dealership parts department, so I bought oil filters. The parts guy said Honda has used the same filter for all their engines since 1987.
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Just my opinion, only an opinion but any decent brand name filter will suite you just fine. I've bought from the Dealer, Frams from Wally Mart, Purilator (sp) etc, etc... Keep the oil changed when it calls or sooner and those filters shouldn't let you down. You'll find people who will argue/discuss oil and filter brands till the cows come home. In 35 (ish) years of driving I've never stressed out to much about the filter or oil brand just always bought a good known brand name of each, no oil related failures yet!
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Originally Posted by dgp1961
(Post 371020)
Just my opinion, only an opinion but any decent brand name filter will suite you just fine. I've bought from the Dealer, Frams from Wally Mart, Purilator (sp) etc, etc... Keep the oil changed when it calls or sooner and those filters shouldn't let you down. You'll find people who will argue/discuss oil and filter brands till the cows come home. In 35 (ish) years of driving I've never stressed out to much about the filter or oil brand just always bought a good known brand name of each, no oil related failures yet!
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Originally Posted by shipo
(Post 371023)
Agreed, buy a name brand filter designed to fit your application and you'll be good to go; arguing about the differences is about as sensible as arguing the relative merits of spring water versus distilled water with minerals added back in.
Agree, change them when needed or sooner and regular checks of the oil level is the bottom line in my opinion. |
That's right, regular checking oil level & changing oil when it's needed is a lot more important than what brand of filter.
I had used brand-x for hundreds of thousands of miles on 4 or 5 different cars without any failures; before hearing the stories about how their internal construction is sloppy. |
Ok. I now have my little Honda oil filter. In the past, instructions for installation included something to the effect of hand-tighten 3/4 of a turn. This filter says to tighten "3/4 turn with tool". Is this implying that I won't be able to tighten the filter to 3/4 of a turn using my hand? I suspect that Honda has a specific wrench for removing and installing the filter. I visited an auto parts store and none of the wrenches there are small enough for this filter. I had intended to use my old wrench, which is activated by a socket which tightens down a metallic loop as you turn the wrench, to remove the old oil filter. I just placed the wrench over the filter and it seems like that will work for removal.
Your experience? |
Against my better judgment this is the very reason I've started using the mid-grade Fram filters on my Honda. Why? Because they have a very nice grippy high-friction surface on the outside, and given where the filter on my car is located, it is almost impossible to use a conventional filter wrench on it.
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Originally Posted by pspens
(Post 371103)
Ok. . Is this implying that I won't be able to tighten the filter to 3/4 of a turn using my hand? I suspect that Honda has a specific wrench for removing and installing the filter. I visited an auto parts store and none of the wrenches there are small enough for this filter.
I think it was at Fleet Farm (mostly in Minnesota) that says it's for Honda. Fits great. Like I said I had touble, WalMart, Autozone and O'Realy didn't have one that fit, even thought they said they did. |
I put on rubber gloves to get a better grip on the clean new filter. Tighten it as hard as I can, and I can usually get it about 3/4 of a turn, but I don't stress about that too much. Those strap tools that use a socket ratchet, usually put a big dent in the side of the filter when I remove it, so I don't use that to install the new one.
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Thanks for the replies. I bought a cheap wrench on Amazon and that should work even though the wrench is actually too small to fit on the filter completely. The Honda wrench was like $35! The one I bought was like $7.
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Originally Posted by Corvair
(Post 370990)
The parts guy said Honda has used the same filter for all their engines since 1987.
The aftermarket filters I've used (Wix/Napa and Purolator) don't have the metal-to-metal contact as the filter housing OD is bigger than the flange so I can get 3/4 to 1 turn. |
For the most part I've found with any oil changes I've done if your metal on metal with the filter your compressing the gasket way to tight. I go good and snug and I've never touched the metal part of the filter to the base. :confused:
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Originally Posted by dgp1961
(Post 371220)
For the most part I've found with any oil changes I've done if your metal on metal with the filter your compressing the gasket way to tight. I go good and snug and I've never touched the metal part of the filter to the base. :confused:
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