Hey guys,
Well, I've finally got my 1991 Accord LX back together (after a cylinder head + timing belt replacement) and it starts up on the first try. Except, the oil pressure light is on.
I didn't run it for very long at all (just a minute or two) because the light didn't go off.

So, I was hoping it was just the oil pressure sensor/sending unit, so I took off the oil filter to get to the sensor. There was no oil in the filter. ( Possibility of an oil pump problem?) I didn't have a socket large enough to get the sensor off (What is it.. a 24mm?) So I've decided to come ask you guys what your opinion is on it.

1. Are there any ways to check the oil pressure to tell if the sensor and/or oil pump is bad?
2. Why was there no oil in the filter?
3. Where is the oil pump, and what drives it?

Any other info would be greatly appreciated... I really want this car out of my driveway.
Thank you much

 

The oil pump is behind the timing belt up against the engine. Those shaft seals are on the oil pump.

The one thing you didn't mention is if you checked the oil level?

 

I did after putting the oil in (From empty, it took 5 quarts) but did not after I ran it.
Does it take more than 5 quarts?

 

I think that the oil pump is driven off of the crankshaft, but I am not 100% sure of that.

I would not run the engine until you figure this out.

Tell us everything you did when you worked on the car.

Did you install both belts when you put on the timing belt? Are the oil passages clear on the cylinder head? Did you have the oil pan off for any reason?

 

The main problem at first was that the timing belt was broken. I took off the front left tire and put the car on a jackstand. Then I removed the power steering pump and alternator, and their brackets, and then removed the crank pulley. I then removed the valve cover, removed the engine mount (after putting a jack underneath for support) and the timing belt covers. Sure enough, both timing belts were broken. I then discovered that the cam shaft was seized up, and the plastic cover behind the cam shaft pulley was severely melted. (Lack of oil causing it to overheat I'm assuming.) (This is what broke the timing belt.) I then took off the radiator, exhaust manifold, distributor, and the head bolts. I was at first going to leave the intake manifold on the head and remove them together, so I proceeded to take off the fuel injector rail and injection system, disconnecting a few hoses on the way. For some reason, it would not come out (I found out later there is a bracket underneath that was holding the intake manifold in place that I had missed) so I unbolted the intake manifold and remove the cylinder head. Sure enough, the cam shaft was seized up... a couple of the roller bearings had gotten so hot that they tore up their seats (guides?). There were a few metal shavings around.

Yes, I did remove the oil pan. I was going to check the lower bearings to make sure the lower engine was okay. I did not end up doing this however, but I did clean all of the metal shavings out of the oil pan, and dumped diesel fuel into the system to flush it out. (After removing the old oil filter.)
After letting it dry, I put it back together.

I bought a rebuilt cylinder head, and installed it in reverse order, although I obviously did the head bolts first. As far as I know, the car is put together correctly. It took 5 quarts of oil.

I'm thinking about checking the oil screen. (I actually have another post asking where it is. :P ) And cleaning that off. I'll also continue to try to get the sensor off.

Thanks for your continuing help with this. I really appreciate it.

 

With a seized cam along with your heat damage, the oil pump may have been the culprit. You should consider replacing after inspecting the oil pickup/screen. I would check the pickup for clogs if it is pinched off somehow.

Did you do any work on the car before you had the cam seize? Was the oil light turning on before the cam seized?

Replacing the oil pump would require the steps included to remove the timing belt. The oil pump is between the gears that hold both timing belts and the engine block.

 

Alright. I'll check the oil screen/pickup when I get a chance (may not be tomorrow but for sure Thursday). You have to take off the oil pan to get there correct?

I bought the car as a fixer-upper, under the impression that it was only overheating. The previous owner (who know nothing about car mechanics) said the car overheated on them, and they thought it was the radiator. I pulled the radiator and had it checked, and it's fine. I started the car to see if I could find any more symptoms, and it sounded terrible. There was a metal on metal grinding sound. I immediately stopped the car and put in 3 or so quarts of oil, which stopped the grinding sound. I drove it approx. 2 miles, to have it overheat and quit on me. It would not start again, and that's when the timing belt broke (cam seized.) Unfortunately, I can't remember if the oil pressure light was on when I drove the car that time.

Thanks. I'll check out the screen and let you know what I find.

 

You have to remove the oil pan to get to the pickup and screen.

Good luck.

 

I read your other thread first & I put this picture of the oil pump & pickup in there.


I had suggested that maybe the pickup came loose from the oilpump but you should have noticed that when you took off the oil pan.

The oil pump IS the whole front part of the block, shown here as #7. The pump rotors are # 12 & 13. It's driven off the crankshaft, so a broken timing belt will not stop the oilpump from turning. Possible it lost it's "grip" on the crankshaft? The inner rotor # 12 has to be locked to the crank, possibly by the back end of the same key that holds the timing sprocket? I'm not sure cause I've never had to take off an oil pump.

How about missing the relief valve or broken springs # 16, 17, 18?

 

This is great JimBlake... thank you!
I'll tear into it tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes.
Thanks!