oil pan and oxygen sensor codes.
#1
oil pan and oxygen sensor codes.
Just did the oil pan gasket on My 96 accord. 2.2 non vtec. Dropped front half of the exhaust. Was a *$%* on your back I Might add. Anyways started it up after the job and the car popped a pre cat code. Ok i didnt replace the first exhaust gasket. It looked Fine so gonna have to get at that today. Yesterday the car popped both 02 codes. It was Fine before the fix. Has to be a leak right? Or could i have broken a wire on the o2 when I unplugged it? It came off easy. Keepi.g My fingers crossed on the leak. When pre cat sensor went out My car ran better. So maybe the first One IS bad? Im confused on the post cat One now. Help a chick our Man?! Anyone encounter this lovely dilemma?
#2
You are going down the right path......check/fix the exhaust leak. Double check the connector on/from the O2. Be sure to look at, around the flex part of the pipe to be sure it is not leaking. After this, clear the codes, let it relearn idle.
See if any codes come back. If no exhaust leak and the code(s) come back, I'd replace the front O2.
See if any codes come back. If no exhaust leak and the code(s) come back, I'd replace the front O2.
#3
Ok. Hoping its nice out tomorrow I got two new exhaust gaskets might have to cut the pre cat bolts for the doughnut. Breaking out the dielectric grease for the o2 with fingers crossed. The codes it threw at me were p0135 and p0155? Not sure about those two either.
#4
Hang on....if there is no leak at the rear - the cat - I wouldn't even bother. I thought your leak was where the manifold and pipe come together.
Again IF there is an exhaust leak then yes it needs to be fixed.
The codes on the O2 are for the heater circuit....test for resistance on the #3 and #4 pins on the O2 side of the wires? If open/no resistance than the heating element is gone.....time for a new O2.
Again IF there is an exhaust leak then yes it needs to be fixed.
The codes on the O2 are for the heater circuit....test for resistance on the #3 and #4 pins on the O2 side of the wires? If open/no resistance than the heating element is gone.....time for a new O2.
Last edited by poorman212; 03-31-2013 at 09:16 AM.
#5
O2 has lived Its life. Update on the oil pan, gonna have to do it again. Seems My torque wrench sucks major butt and over tightened One and pinched the damn gasket out pretty good. Screw Pittsburg tools Man OMG im so pissed. Good thing My gasket has a warranty and the oil is new i guess. Changed the little flange gasket it sounds great. Burn marks indicate a few naughty leaks. Still blowing oil. Anyways scored a denso online for just over 30$. Cant wait for it to get here. Off to the boneyard to get a o2 til the new One arrives.
#6
Sounds like you may have tightened to ft-lbs where in-lbs were specified. We've seen this before.
Pan bolts don't have to be torqued in any special sequence, but you need a good torque wrench and use correct units. Most are made to use ft-lb settings, but specs on Honda are usually in-lbs. If you use in-lb specs on ft-lb wrench you tighten to 12 times the correct value.
good luck
Pan bolts don't have to be torqued in any special sequence, but you need a good torque wrench and use correct units. Most are made to use ft-lb settings, but specs on Honda are usually in-lbs. If you use in-lb specs on ft-lb wrench you tighten to 12 times the correct value.
good luck
#7
Sounds like you may have tightened to ft-lbs where in-lbs were specified. We've seen this before.
Pan bolts don't have to be torqued in any special sequence, but you need a good torque wrench and use correct units. Most are made to use ft-lb settings, but specs on Honda are usually in-lbs. If you use in-lb specs on ft-lb wrench you tighten to 12 times the correct value.
good luck
Pan bolts don't have to be torqued in any special sequence, but you need a good torque wrench and use correct units. Most are made to use ft-lb settings, but specs on Honda are usually in-lbs. If you use in-lb specs on ft-lb wrench you tighten to 12 times the correct value.
good luck
#8
A figure of 10 ft-lbs sounds high to me. I remember 7 ft-lbs but could be thinking of another part. I don't have my manuals at the office to check.
Even if 10 ft-lbs is wrong, I don't think it's so far off as to extrude the gasket. What brand gasket was used?
Checked my 94 Accord manual and 7.2 ft-lbs is correct value. Still as I said I don't think 10 ft-lbs should have squeezed gasket too much.
good luck
Even if 10 ft-lbs is wrong, I don't think it's so far off as to extrude the gasket. What brand gasket was used?
Checked my 94 Accord manual and 7.2 ft-lbs is correct value. Still as I said I don't think 10 ft-lbs should have squeezed gasket too much.
good luck
Last edited by TexasHonda; 04-15-2013 at 06:36 PM.
#9
I always get worried on these...just me but I'd want to be on the "down side".....once the gasket is toast there is no room for correction. Plus, IMHO, the "hump" on the pan, I'd want a dab of silicone on those corners, just like the valve cover.
#10
I looked in My Honda book and it said 120 inch lbs. Gasket was felpro. So Its got a warranty thank god. It pinched it pretty good sadly. I guess this go around i will paint some gasket sealant in a few spots. Gonna have to check the pan to make sure Its gonna be straight.