Oil still leaking on to spark plug wires...
I changed the valve cover gaskets and spark plug wire tube seal thingy's awhile back..
I opted NOT to change the little O-rings that reside somewhere under the rocker arms I believe??
Would the O-rings cause oil to leak into the spark plug tube holes or did I do a poor job changing the seals and need to do them again?
Thank you,
Donnie
I opted NOT to change the little O-rings that reside somewhere under the rocker arms I believe??
Would the O-rings cause oil to leak into the spark plug tube holes or did I do a poor job changing the seals and need to do them again?
Thank you,
Donnie
If you have the models w/ the lower oring under the rocker arm assembly, that's likely whats leaking. Perhaps you can see the oil leaking from the seam (at least on upper oil seals) when you pull the spark plug lead from the tube to confirm source of leak. Check upper seals for oil around the seam. No oil there, then lowers are pretty well confirmed.
good luck
good luck
Thanks man, this is a 96..I still have the O-rings left over from the Felpro kit when I swapped the gasket and tube seals so I guess I'll swap those out this weekend when I do the fuel filter..
Make sure you got the upper tube seals installed the right way around. They have a particular shape so if you put them in upside-down they won't seal right.
Get the shop manual from the thread in DIY. You'll want to know the bolt tightening sequence & torque when you re-install the camshaft bearing caps. You'll be really hurting if you pull some threads out of the head.
I normally suggest replacing only the upper seals not because leaking lower seals are RARE. But mostly because going back later & removing the valve cover again is not very much repeated work.
Get the shop manual from the thread in DIY. You'll want to know the bolt tightening sequence & torque when you re-install the camshaft bearing caps. You'll be really hurting if you pull some threads out of the head.
I normally suggest replacing only the upper seals not because leaking lower seals are RARE. But mostly because going back later & removing the valve cover again is not very much repeated work.
If you look down the spark plug tubes, with a good flashlight, you might be able to tell which seam the oil is coming through. I wiped the tube real good after changing the valve cover seals, and the tube was dry above the bottom seam, where the o-rings are. It's not a hard fix really, just make sure you leave the bolts in the rocker arm assembly, because the bolts will hold everything together and you want to put the bolts back in the same hole. Have a good shop manual? Good luck
I'm sorry for the delayed response.
Yes, I have the factory service manual also.
So, you remove the camshaft bearing caps AND each rocker arm but leave all the bolts down in their "holes" even though they're completely loose correct?
Thank you again,
Donnie
Yes, I have the factory service manual also.
So, you remove the camshaft bearing caps AND each rocker arm but leave all the bolts down in their "holes" even though they're completely loose correct?
Thank you again,
Donnie
On my 1991 Accord, I loosened all of the bolts and bearing caps, and the whole assembly lifted off. Leaving the bolts in the holes is a great idea. Wish I would've thought of that.. it would've saved me a lot of trouble. 
I would make sure to loosen the bolts evenly around the assembly, so you don't torque it awry with one side being loose and the other side being tight, if you get my drift.
Hope it goes well.

I would make sure to loosen the bolts evenly around the assembly, so you don't torque it awry with one side being loose and the other side being tight, if you get my drift.
Hope it goes well.
On my 1991 Accord, I loosened all of the bolts and bearing caps, and the whole assembly lifted off. Leaving the bolts in the holes is a great idea. Wish I would've thought of that.. it would've saved me a lot of trouble. 
I would make sure to loosen the bolts evenly around the assembly, so you don't torque it awry with one side being loose and the other side being tight, if you get my drift.
Hope it goes well.

I would make sure to loosen the bolts evenly around the assembly, so you don't torque it awry with one side being loose and the other side being tight, if you get my drift.
Hope it goes well.
Perfect, thank you so much for the quick reply.
That part is especially important around any valve that happens to be compressed by the cam lobe. The force of the open valve spring can torque stuff around funny ways & you don't want to bend anything.


