Hey everybody, I'm a little stumped on this one so I've turned to the masses for a solution. I have an 86 accord. Twice now I have had my car what seems to be flooding while driving. Both times it happened accelerating up a hill then quickly letting off the gas. But the other day I went to start it and it seems to have the same problem. This time though I wasn't driving it. I have checked the timing and everything seems spot on. Lots of spark. Seems to be a lot of back pressure coming out of the TBI. It seems like it is overfuelling. Does anybody have any ideas?

 

is it a fuel injected or carb.? If it's a carb my guess would be that you have junk in the floats or in the needle and if that's the case I'd just get a carb rebuild kit and go through it. That should solve all your issues... does it give you a check engine light when that happens?

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!

 

Hey,

It has a carb, no check engine light. A friend thought that there might be a hole in the piston. Or at least something in the valve. Possible? I am going to do a compression test later to see if I have any problems.

 

I would think that if it was a hole in the piston that not only would you have some fuel in your oil but it would be blowing blue smoke as well... Based on what you've told me and the way it's kind of progressing I would start by running some carb cleaner through your gas and see if that makes any difference (over a 100 or so miles) if it does then you know that it's probably junk built up in the carb...

 

i think there would be a lot more of a problem then just burning oil....you would be running the risk of ignition of fuel under the piston as well and the car wouldnt be running as we speak

 

Have a similar problem w/an '87 carb'd.

Have replaced a few control valves and the EGR to no avail. I understand there is a weakness in the distributor/spark advance. The U-Pull-it auto salvage in my area has an increasing number of this model, that I am watching for a new/re-manufactured unit. New ones are $187 and a carb $300 at a parts supplier. They sell the salvage units for $18 and $20.

If a bad accelerator valve is suspect - the info I have is that it is not repairable - the carb MUST be replaced. I have a replacement carb but, it is a piece of work to install it, (it was a bit of work to remove it from the donor auto), considering what has to be removed.

There are dozens of items listed as suspect in the factory shop manual.

Keep in touch.

 

Actually it's not running. I can't get it to stay running. I did a compression test. I think I see the problem. 0 PSI on #1, 75 PSI on #2, 150 PSI on #3,#4. So I guess I'm going to pull the head and see what's going on.

 

0 PSI on #1?? did they try the test multiple times...? I don't even know how it's possible to get a 0 reading... but then again I'm far from perfect or certified in anything... let us know what you find

 

and isnt 150 psi a bit high for stock n/a? and maybe the valves arent opening to let the fuel/air into the cyl.

 

I'm not sure what the specs are for PSI ratings. That's just what they put out. I disconnected the timing belt and tried to hand crank the crankshaft, but it would only turn about 180 degrees. It makes me think that there might be something in there or maybe a bent valve stem.