Overheated and now d4 flashes
So last week my car overheated. I thought it was the radiator or the fan, but the fan was working fine. So I replaced the radiator, and still had a leak. It ended up being the heater core hose that is under the dizzy. So I replaced that and now it doesn't leak any more. During the radiator removal, I lost some fluid. Not a whole lot but when I disconnected the cooler lines some ran out. I have checked my trans dip stick and the fluid level is fine.
This morning I drove to work (first time since I finished and confirmed no leaks) and the d4 light started flashing and first gear was not as peppy as it was before.
Can the loss of maybe a (probably less) quart of fluid make the d4 flash?
This morning I drove to work (first time since I finished and confirmed no leaks) and the d4 light started flashing and first gear was not as peppy as it was before.
Can the loss of maybe a (probably less) quart of fluid make the d4 flash?
I forgot to mention the hose blew coolant all over the engine, and I had to remove the dizzy to get the hose off. The blades didn't move and it slid right back in without a problem.
D4 light flashing means a trans code is stored in TCM. See DIY forum for obd1 code check procedure and extract code.
I don't see how replacing radiator replacement could affect trans unless somehow ATF flow to radiator was blocked (pinched hose, debris).
good luck
I don't see how replacing radiator replacement could affect trans unless somehow ATF flow to radiator was blocked (pinched hose, debris).
good luck
Fluid loss from disconnecting the ATF cooler lines means I would expect you should need to add some ATF to replenish the loss. But that all comes back to the level on the transmission dipstick. If the dipstick shows the proper level, then you're OK.
Could there be air pockets in the ATF lines or in the radiator (ATF tubing)? So the level looked OK when you checked it, but then the level dropped after you began driving? (Just trying to rule out some obvious stuff)
Could there be air pockets in the ATF lines or in the radiator (ATF tubing)? So the level looked OK when you checked it, but then the level dropped after you began driving? (Just trying to rule out some obvious stuff)


