Look at the difference between honda T-Stat and Napa..





Napa is on the left, Honda OE is on the right..

You can tell the honda has at least 50% more bigger opening and is alot bigger.

Napa - $7
Honda - $25

Time to see if it will fix my problem.

 

And I spoke too soon. This did not fix my problem... Still does the same stuff.. and as you describe.. my return hose is cold, and the other one feels like it's going to blow up. As the engine heats up it seems like the coolant is boiling, not like the typical bubbles coming out as if the head gasket(already replaced) or if it had a cracked head/block.. I tried bleeding the air out many times.. it just gets to a point where the coolant just dribbles out of the system.

The only thing I have left to replace is my waterpump, Stupid me did not think to check/replace the one that came with the used engine.


Anyone know how to test the waterpump? It's 40 bucks for a new one.. and god knows how long it takes to replace it.

I guess I should drive the 4x4 for a little while.. it's snowing out now anyway.

Brendan

 

The only way I know how to check your water pump is to look in the radiator and see if the anitifreeze is moving. For your situation you would have to remove the thermostat since it is not opening.

Since the thermostat has that small hole in it the air should bleed out if there is a pocket. Is there any blockage behind the thermostat that will not allow the antifreeze to get to the thermostat? When you had the thermostat out last time would the bottom hose get warm at all?

The Napa thermostat that I put in did not have the small hole in it like the one you have the picture of so the 93 must be slightly different design for the coolant system.

 

Hi I am new to the board. I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX. Recently I have been having some similar problems. My temperature gauge would shift very dramatically from cold to hot and vice versa. I took my car to a shop and the guys said that i needed a new radiator because it was cracked and that some of the hoses were also cracked. So today i went out and bought a whole new radiator and all new hoses. I got done replacing all my new parts and went out for a test drive, it was running at a very good temperature for the 15 minutes that i was driving it. Then i went out later tonight and it started doing the same damn thing. I was very angry because i just spent about $200 replacing the radiator. The next thing that came to my mind was the thermostat. It doesnt seem like replacing that helped out for you guys which was really dissapointing for me because i thought for sure that was the problem. I have a few questions.

What does it mean if your lower radiator hose is cooler that the upper radiator hose?
Is the thermostat also known as the coolant temperature gauge sender?
Can you post a link to directions on replacing the thermostat and for replacing the radiator fan switch?
How do i make sure that there are no air pockets in my cooling system?

Thanks for anything and everything!

accord586.

 

I have a 93 accord LX and the Honda thermostat did fix my problem, do not use an aftermarket or you will still have the problem. To get all the air out, before you start the car open the bleeder on top of the thermostat housing with the radiator cap off and then close it before you start the car. The new thermostat will have a small hole in it like pictured above and that will allow any other air out.

The coolant temperature sender is on the housing on the top hose. The thermostat is in the housing connected to the lower hose and the fan switch in located on that housing. I would not replace the fan switch until you change the thermostat. If the thermostat is not opening the fan switch is never seeing any of the antifreeze so it will not kick the fans on. It sounds like you have the same problem I had, replace the t stat with a Honda one and I would bet it fixes your problem.

 

Thank you for the information. I found where the thermostat was and i replaced it. That only took about 30 minutes. As of right now, it seems that the temperature gauge on the instrument panel is now working correctly. My only other concern is that i still have no idea if the radiator fans are coming on.

Could you guys tell me a way to test the fans? and make sure that they are working in concert with the thermostat.
Thanks for all your help so far.

 

If you turn on your AC and the fans come on you know the motors are good. If you want to make sure it work right you need to just let it run until they come on. You can also rev the motor some to help heat up the antifreeze quicker.

 

hey everyone glad to be new to the board. now that you know you have a good thermostat you can move on to something else. couple major things you want to tackle.

one make sure there are no clogs, actually flush out the system. If you pour water in the top it should easily flow out the lower hose. adding stop leak is an easy way to clog up the small passages in the engine.

two, like said earlier, make sure the engine is actually overheating. the sender or the guage could easily be out.

if the water pump stops working, youll know it, big time cause its on a belt its required to spin.
if there isnt any oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil, and your motor is running good no backfires or black smoke or anything you can be pretty sure that you head gasket is good. leak testing it is the best thing to rule that out. all of these things are very easy to test. do things real big and your car should stop overheating tomorrow.


lightshow

 

Well my problem is finally cured!!! Dumb-*** me didn't change the waterpump on the JDM motor I received.. It looks like the motor was run with straight water (must be salt water, lol) because the fins on the waterpump were rotted off.. The waterpump did not have any play in it.. the seals were perect, it spun freely.. I didn't think to pull it at the time..

So I'm glad my problem is fixed, I just have to tackle the commin erractic surging idle problem..

 

bling bling, thats what im talking about. i have a funny feeling your car is not going to be overheating anymore