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P0135 and P0155 at same time - 2002 Accord

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  #1  
Old 05-11-2016, 08:31 PM
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Question P0135 and P0155 at same time - 2002 Accord

My son's Accord, 2002, 4 cylinder, about 70k miles, has CEL on. Codes are heater circuits for both O2 sensors. Hard to believe both fail simultaneously. I see many many posts saying check the fuses, but I can't seem to find which fuses they are. The best I've seen is to look at certain fuses in the under dash fuse panel - but I'm not sure a 2002 has this. I checked the under hood and both of the boxes on the sides of the dash. I didn't find anything specific to the O2 heater circuits. I did check all the 40 amp fuses under the hood. All were good.

I do have power to the bank 1 sensor. I couldn't get a resistance reading across the heating element but I'm not sure I was getting good contact on the connector contacts. I also didn't get a voltage reading between the B+ and the harness side ground. I've seen the posts that discuss looking for shorts but there isn't too much wire that can easily be traced.

I was wondering if this could also be caused by a faulty ECT sensor since it is an issue with elapsed time between the coolant reaching some temp and sensors reaching some functional state. I assume the ECT is the one under the distributor, but I can't fit my hand in there to pull the connector and then check it.

OK - that's probably enough of my woes to get folks started. Guidance on figuring this out is much appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 05-11-2016, 08:44 PM
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P0155 - There is no P0155 applicable to the 4 cylinders, as there is no bank 2.

P0135 is Primary O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction.
 
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:05 PM
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That was read at Autozone - could it imply the downstream (post cat sensor). Anyway, they got two codes and that was them.
 
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:00 AM
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It is likely referring to the same primary O2 sensor.
 
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:25 AM
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Thanks - I'll try a little harder to get a resistance check on the sensor heating element. One reference mentioned checking between pins 3 and 4, but there are no contact position numbers on the connector. Any guidance on which wires I should check between? Also, I would still like any help you could provide on which fuses to check, especially is there a 4th fuse box, one under the dash, on a 2002. The owners manual shows just the 3 I know of.
 
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Old 05-12-2016, 03:47 PM
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The heater element in the sensor has 2 wires of the same color (black?).

So IIRC the wires from the sensor itself are green - white - black - black. Measure resistance between the 2 black wires.

If that resistance is OK, then it still might be a break in the corresponding wires in the car's wiring harness. That'll be fun to find.
 
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Old 05-12-2016, 08:43 PM
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Thanks - I'll give it a check. Question, on checking the ground through the ECM, does the key need to be in run in order to cause the ECM to switch to ground or is it normally at ground?
 
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:39 PM
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Just a guess, but maybe so. It seems Honda's customary way of doing things is the (+) is usually hot & they switch the ground side of most circuits.
 
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:00 AM
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Nothing I do can find a circuit between black with yellow stripe and black with white stripe leads on the censor, well, unless I open the meter to 2 Mohms, then I get a 250k reading. So unless I have a very poor contact between the ohm meter probes and the harness contacts, I guess the heating element is toast.

But what is bothering me still is I can't get a good ground from the engine harness side through the ECM. With key on, engine off, volt probe on Bat + I get nothing. With engine on I get 3 Volts.

I do get 12 volts on the engine harness side lead into the heater element leads.

Any thoughts, other than replace the sensor and see what happens?

thanks
 
  #10  
Old 05-22-2016, 10:17 AM
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Default just to wrap things up

Bought a Denso direct fit for replacement $66 after 20% online Advance Auto discount. Checked resistance on it before installing and it was right in the proper range. I guess my meter was reading correctly when it showed the old one to be open circuit.

Installed the new one. Amazingly the old one turned out without a fight. Started up. CEL stayed off. Been good ever since - it's been about a week.

I have no idea why I couldn't get a 12-14V indication from the bat+ to the ground lead through the O2/ECM ground circuit as some trouble shooting guides indicated. Hopefully that isn't indicating a bigger issue somewhere else. Time will tell. Thanks all for your help
 


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