Hi,
I have a 2006 Accord 4cyl, automatic.
The car has 330,000 miles engine and trans are original.
I have performed all of the maintenance and repairs myself on the car since new.

Last night I was driving the car and came to a stop light and the car started bucking or lunging. At the same time the check engine light came on.
The car would only buck at idle and seemed to run fine at all speeds over 10mph. I drove home immediately.I had to move the car into to driveway driveway so I went to start the car......car cranks(different than normal) nothing... the crank turns engine doesn't fire at all I ended up having to push it into the driveway. .I pulled out my code reader and got P0341.


Questions..
After googling the code it looks like the timing chain?
1- Is it possible that this code be thrown by the cam sensor?
2- if the chain did jump far enough to stop running / firing all together?
3- if it can jump that far, what are the possibilities that the valves got messed up during the time it was cranked without firing?
4- is there a way to check that valves ore ok before doing the job?
5- since I cranked the engine, nothing may be "lined up as normal" I know there are timing marks but how difficult will it be to bring everything back to TDC?
6-lastly....the. Quick searches on this look like it is a terrible job to do. I am going to go buy a Hanes Manual today but any advice would be appreciated...

Thank you
Mark

PS. I saw in another post on timing chain that people are referencing Honda sealant to reseal the cover. How important is this? Are the Permatex or other products not as good or recommended?

 

1) There are different codes for camshaft sensor faults (P0335, P0339, P0340). Unlikely that cam sensor is problem.

2) Code doesn't mean the chain jumped a sprocket, only that camshaft/crankshaft are not closely aligned (see attached diagnostic).

3) Good chance valves are good. Mechanical check of valve gap (large gap would mean valve is bent) and compression check should tell.

4) See 3

5) Not a problem, but tricky if large misalignment, but head would need to be rebuilt in this case so align crank and cams separately (before installation of head ) .

6) Check youtube videos by South Main Auto and others. Hondabond is recommended by Honda and by all accounts a good product, but other products are used. Getting the stuff applied, distributed, and installed w/o problems is a major challenge, and results will not be apparent until startup. Care and attention is essential.

good luck

 

TexasHonda, thanks for the quick reply.

Since the car will not start at all anymore isn't it safe to assume that the chain jumped?

Since this seems to be such a big job, what else should I replace since I am there already?

It looks like I will have to remove engine mounts and lift the engine for accessibility.. is that true?
Do I need to drain oil? Probably will anyway since change is due soon.



I would assume
Valve cover gasket
Tensioner
All chain guides
Crank shaft seal
Serpentine belt
Clean VTEC screen
Chain - duh��

VTC solenoid?
Crankshaft sensor?

Are there any special tools needed for this job?

Thank you
Mark

 

First of all, don't try to start the car again.

The chain likely jumped, but you won't know how many teeth it jumped until you take off the timing chain cover. If the chain didn't break, you'll likely be able to align the cam and crank and install a new chain, tensioner, guides, etc. and be good to go.

 

Thank PA....
Should I assume after 300k miles all chain guides and tensioner arm should be replaced or should I just wait till I tear it apart?

I am trying to save a little time since none of my local dealers have the parts in stock.

Thank you
Mark

 

I recommend replacing the parts that can wear out over time. A new chain on a worn out tensioner and arms could limit the life of the new chain.

Since most of the work is getting to the timing chain, I think it is worth the extra time for insurance that you won't have to repeat this job for a long time.

 

New chain, tensioner, guides, and VTC actuator. VTC actuator can fail causing another code.

good luck

 

Ok, I will add the VTC actuator to the list.

So, the first and probably the most common problem..
How in the $?&@ do you get the crank pulley bolt out.

I have tried a breaker bar with 4foot cheater.
I also tried the heat method with no success..

I saw "Eric the car guy" pull the bolt with an impact wrench set at 120lbs. I do not have access to air tools but has anyone had success using an electric impact wrench?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks guys...
Mark

 

The Lisle special (very thick) impact socket is a beautiful tool w/ a good air impact. I have also had some help w/ adding heat (5 mins application) from propane torch to bolt head.

good luck

 

Thank you. I will give it a try with heat.

I may order the Lisle and have always wanted a cordless impact so this may be my excuse.

Mark