Hi, Did you ever figure this one out? I recently had rack and pinion replaced and a week later I got CEL. Autozone scanned and told me it was a P1165 - bank 1 sensor 1. Should I get a Bosch or a Denso (which some claim is same as the OEM). Thanks in advance - Dev

 

Get the Denso, it's a better unit, and Honda uses it as well.
If you do a search, you'll find people have been having problems with Bosch parts, and not just here in the Honda forums, but also in Toyota and Volkswagen forums as well. A lot of this is because Bosch has been using a lot of "offshore" stuff in their manufactiring (some of their stuff is made Russia, France, Libia, Brazil, Honduras, etc...), and their quality has suffered.

 

Moved your post to a new thread. Posting on an old thread is confusing when others try to read.

What is the year, trim (LX, EX, etc.), engine (4cyl or V6), transmission (automatic or manual) of your car?

 

I replaced the O2 sensor with a Denso 234-9025. I disconnected the battery and connected back on to clear the code. I drove around ~ 10 miles and the next day I made 2 ~10 mile trips and when I started for the car for the third time, CEL came back on. I don't think it was the sensor. Can a bad Main Relay cause it? As such, I have to wait a few seconds after turning on ignition or else I have to crank little longer to start the engine. Thanks- Dev

 

Stop by a parts store and have them recheck the code(s) to be sure you still have the P1165 code, or possibly a new code.

Did you replace the sensor that bolts to the exhaust manifold?

Is your accord a ULEV, or SULEV emission vehicle?

EDIT: You can enter your VIN on a site like hondapartsnow.com and find the OEM part number for your a/f sensor (aka O2 sensor).

 

Hi, I checked hondapartsnow.com and it recommends 36531-PAA-307. Is this same as Denso 234-9025?
I will stop by Autozone and get it checked again.
Thanks
Dev

 

The OEM part number cross-references the 234-9025 on the denso aftermarket site.

Did you replace the sensor that bolts into the exhaust manifold or the sensor that bolts into the catalytic converter?

When you get a code for the oxygen sensor range the problem may not be the sensor. The problem could be the wiring, the PCM, or something with the engine causing a good O2 sensor to not behave properly.

To figure out what is going on, you'd need to connect a scanner that can read live engine data. Do you have access to this type of scanner?

 

Hi, Thanks for your help. I took it to Autozone and this time I got P0420 (Catalyst efficiency below threshold - Bank 1) and P1165 Lean A/F-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Range/Performance
I am looking to get a scanner for live engine data. Will this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Goliath-Indus.../dp/B01C3HAHCS

 

Something like this should help. You'll also need to find an app to display the engine data.

I'd suggest starting with the fuel trims, or maybe a plot of the O2 sensor voltage.

 

That'll work if you have a good wireless connection.
But going off the codes, I'm guessing you might be looking at having to replace the catalytic convertor. I only say that going off what others have ran into (the search function works very well). You do an Eric the car guy test of the convertor if you have a laser thermometer, and run his test (it will be cooler in front and hot at the output for it to be bad). But if the convertor is running "below threshold" the ECU will try and lean out the mixture, as dumping more fuel will cause other problems.