Hi everyone,

I am new here but not to forums. I have searched and read other articles on this forum about my problem which is the common P1457 emissions problem. A lot of road salt is used here so it is understandable that one of the valves are gone bad.

I went to the dealer and he said that I need to replace the canister and the "vent shut off valve". I have a couple questions to pose to the masses about this:

1) In my searches, I never heard of having to replace the canister. Is this just another add on by the stealership or is it likely that the canister needs replacing also?

2) The invoice says it requires a "vent shut valve". Researching here and on the net it looks like there are two valves on the canister. The part numbers are 17371-S84-A01 or emmissions two way valve, and the 17012-S84-A01 or emissions evap bypass valve. The dealer of course wouldn't give me the part number even though he told me he would over the phone and insisted I just tell the service guy when rebooking and he would know what I needed. He obviously didn't want me sourcing parts elsewhere. My question is which one does everyone think he is talking about?

3) I have moderate mechanical ability so is this something I could do myself? The dealer wants $400 for parts and labour!

Thanks for any help.

PS. The dealership also stated that the lower ball joints were bad, but the car only has 50,000 miles on it. Seems unlikely to me.

 

What year and trim Accord? Read new posters directions and follow.

good luck

 

It is a 2001 with 4 cylinder motor, and automatic transmission. The car is a Limited Edition model that I think was unique to Canada, but basically had body color bumpers, power mirrors, locks, A/C.

I am reading the new posters directions now.

 

the canister vent shut valve is located about a foot infront of the left rear wheel, if you crawl under the vehicle you will see a black box type thing with some hoses connected to it, assuming you crawl under the car just in front of the left rear wheel you will look up and see the canister, on the side closest to the side of the car,(not facing towards the front) you find a connector with a contraption connected to the canister with i belive 2 hoses goin to it. that is the canister vent shut valve,( a common item to fail on 6th gen accords), you will need to remove the canister so take the hoses and connectors off of it, theres a 12 or 14mm bolt holding the canister in and its kid of slid into a sleve type thing on the canister so once everythings loose and the bolt is taken out slide it towards the drivers side of the car and it will come out. On the end of the canister where the CVS valve is clamp a vise grip into the plastic part of the canister where the bolts go through holding the Cvs to the canister. Using another vise grip clamp it to the bolt and unscrew, If the screw breaks off the canister will need replacing because the bolts are rusted in and you cant replace them so you need a canister for about 90 bucks i think. put new bolts in and reinstall.

 

The canister is #6 & the vent-shut valve is #8 on the outboard face of the canister. Out against the rocker panel.



But that's only 1 of about a dozen things that can set off P1457. That code means the canister isn't airtight like it should be, but the CVS valve is part of the system that measures whether it's airtight.

Wire battery power to that valve & see if it clicks & changes state. I don't remember if it's normally open or normally closed, but when mine went bad it didn't even click. DIAGNOSE it or you'll just be guessing. For all you know the problem with YOUR car is a loose vacuum hose down there.

 

also if you can push down on the front of the car and you year a squeak fairly audible, your lower ball joints should be replaced, its the metal joint inside rubbing on the top sealed part of the joint....if the dealer told you its your canister vent shut valve it probally is, as ive said before i work for honda and i would say 99% of those MIL 1457's are either a hole in a hose for the vent shut valve as i said above how to replace. the only reason you should need a canister is if the bolts break, the dealer was just trying to cover their*butt* incase the bolts did break and they didnt tell you you needed a canister, thus they would probally eat the 90 bucks for it.

 

So it sounds like I need to purchase the emissions two-way valve, Part #17371-S84-A01 or do you recommend I buy the solenoid valve as well and replace that while I am in there?

 

The 2-way valve & it's solenoid are shown as #14 & 7. They're inside a little case #27. Are you sure you want to replace that stuff without knowing if the valve is actually bad?

Besides, what happened with the vent-shut valve? Did you check it & find it's OK?

 

Ok....Now I think I understand. The parts I listed are numbers 14 and 7, but the vent shut valve is number 8? I was looking at the diagram that 8 and 9 were the parts I had the part numbers for.

So it is the vent shut valve I need. Does anyone know the part number?

My plan is to pick up the parts either new or used and dive into it over the next couple days. When I take it out I will test it.

 

you just need #8, buy new, that way you wont have to do it again.