I'm not sure if this was the appropriote place to put my forum. I just really need help ASAP.

I have a 2.2 L (2 door) 1990 Honda Accord - 5 speed manual.

I was driving around a corner while i shifted into 2nd.
Suddenly my car felt like it was dragging (almost as though i had missed 2nd and put it into 4th)
Abruptly my car slowed and 'stalled' (? i'm assuming)

Confused, I put my car into neutral and tried to start the car again.
A awful burning smell came into the car.



I live in Calgary. 10 minutes before the car was running fine in front of my house (I was warming it up due to the cold weather)

The oil on the dipstick is low but not enough for the engine to seize my brother said.

Other people talking about a distributer cap or battery problems?


PLEASE HELP!!!

 

Turn keyswitch to On position. Check Engine Light and alt light should come on. You should hear a click from under the dash and fuel pump run for 2-3 secs, and Check Engine light goes off w/ fuel pump. Post back what you find.

good luck

 

Check engine light goes off after 3 seconds as you said,
battery and oil light come on..
The problem I have though is that Im not sure if the lights are accurate.
I have been extremelly low on oil before and the indicator as not flashed on.


I have topped up the oil.
Would the filter be causing these problems? its hasnt been changed in some time.

Also,
My dad says that there is power going to the engine..would that make the battery light inaccurate as well?


Thankyou for replying!

 

Did you hear the fuel pump buzz in the fuel tank? If you can confirm the fuel pump is going on and car will still not start, we've almost certainly narrowed the problem to an ignition problem.

You have to be almost out of oil before oil light will come on. That is not likely the source of your problem.

Battery light only comes on to indicate a problem when engine is running and alternator is not charging. It has nothing to do w/ no start as long as you can turn the engine over w/ the starter motor.

What is current status? Motor turns over but will not start/run?

I moved your thread to General Tech.

good luck

 

The fuel pump is pumping to the engine.
I think the problem could be:
1. spark
2. fuel

I can see it being the spark aspect becuase the fuel is being pumped but not ignited when it is turned over.
The only thing I dont understand is why the vehicle stopped while I was driving. This leads me to believe that it was a fuel problem. The last time I checked the fuel gauge it was working properly. But it may be inaccurate.


My fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank right now.


Thankyou

 

That oil light will only turn on when the oil pressure is low. That light does not car about the oil level. It happened on my car once, and I only had 1-2 quarts of oil left when that light turned on. You should determine why/how the car is leaking oil after you figure out why it is stalling.

You need to answer the questions about what is going on with the car at the present moment. What happens when you turn the key to start it? Does the starter turn the engine? Does the engine start up?

Have you checked for error codes? I wrote up how to check for CEL codes in the DIY section that covers your car. It is quick and simple to do.

 

starter is turning the engine.

the engine turns over but will not ignite making it run.

can you post the link for the DIY. I couldn't find it.

Thanks

 

Here is the link:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=35962

 

W/ the fuel pump coming on, fuel pressure is likely OK and fuel delivery is likely OK.

An easy way to confirm no-spark is to spray some starter fluid or throttle body cleaner into the intake of the throttle body, and attempt to start. A good long spray of at least 5-10 secs. If engine starts briefly and dies, then somehow fuel is not getting to the engine. However if engine does not start at all, the lack of spark is virtually certain.

Let us know what you find.

good luck

 

MY friend pulled the 4 spark plugs out and 3/4 are soaked in oil.

He says maybe the valve tappet cover is leaking

but now that we looked around he have figured that it is the tube seals and the tappit gasket may be shot.

we figure the oil on the plug is causing a no-spark reaction.


do you concur?

and if it was this...how difficult would it be?