Question about "wheel bearing" vs. "wheel bearing and hub assembly"?
4 Attachment(s)
I am planning on replacing my driver's side wheel bearing as I am hearing the telltale "howling" noise. The passenger side was done last year by a shop, and I want to do the other side myself. I'm a little confused about what situation requires having the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.
Sometimes I see the first picture described as a "wheel bearing" but also as a "wheel bearing and hub assembly". But in my mind the second picture should actually be considered the assembly. If I purchase what is in the first picture, will I still need to have it pressed out/in at a shop? I also want to replace the CV axle at the same time. Besides a new axle nut, is there anything else I should buy to replace at the same time? |
Originally Posted by joenintiesc
(Post 316803)
If I purchase what is in the first picture, will I still need to have it pressed out/in at a shop?
Replacing the bearing alone doesn't necessarily require a press; there are workarounds. See youtube video FEDrioMDe1k. The hub/bearing assembly isn't much more expensive than the bearing alone. |
What year is this car - kind of looks like a 4th or 5th gen (90-97).
When you have is apart, check all of the suspension items (ball joints, tie rods, ect). |
It's a 94 (I just added it to my sig)
Where can I get the true "wheel bearing and hub assembly" in the second pic for a decent price? The only place I was able to find it was a web parts place called AM Autoparts, but they have a lot of negative reviews. I've seen a few others here and there but they were all over $100. I can get the bearing alone (pic 1) for $15-30 from Rockauto. Please let me know as I'd rather do this as simply as possible if it is only a bit more $ for the hub/bearing combo! |
I'm not really sure where they can be had for much less, meaning the hub and bearing.
Do some google searches on replacing rotors, hubs or bearings on these cars (94-97). There a pleanty of "ways" you can do this yourself. Yes the official answer is to have it pressed by a shop but I can tell you there are plenty of "creative" ways of doing this yourself....meaning buy the bearing, maybe ~$30 dollars of tools, bolts, whatever and press out the old hub and install the old hub into the new bearing. |
One of this site's sponsors, TheAutoPartsShop, has a National brand assembly for $69 shipped.
Edit: maybe not. No pic shown. Edit #2: I'm guessing it's just the bearing, not the hub too. My favorite wheel bearing source, HubBearing(dot)com is apparently out of business. They used to sell the complete Timken (NSK) assemblies for ~$60. Sorry for leading you down the wrong path. I successfully replaced the passenger FWB using Eric's video (but with no air tools) using his cutoff wheel method. The only hitch: a hunk of hardened steel sliced right into my face when popping the race off with the chisel. Wear a full face mask, not just safety glasses. Freeze the hub in your freezer for an hour or two, and warm the bearing in the sun, before "pressing" them together(8:25 in the video.) |
Originally Posted by Roader
(Post 316820)
One of this site's sponsors, TheAutoPartsShop, has a National brand assembly for $69 shipped.
Brand: National Part Number: 94honaccord/513098 Category: Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly Condition: New Description: Hub Assembly 1994 honda accord LX 4 Cyl.2.2L -Front Wheel Price: $46.09 But there is no pic, so no way to tell if it is a "true" assembly, or just the bearing itself. It seems a little too good to be true that it is the bearing and hub together, since the hub alone shows for over $90... I guess I will give them a call tomorrow and see what's what. There is one on ebay for $64.90 shipped from a seller called 1aautomotive, but I'm always wary of ebay parts sellers when it is something that is kind of hard to find elsewhere... |
I can tell you this - a National 513098 is just the bearing.
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Originally Posted by poorman212
(Post 316825)
I can tell you this - a National 513098 is just the bearing.
So it looks like either I will have to do it the hard way/ DIY youtube method(s), or take a chance on the ebay ACTUAL Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly I mentioned. Thanks for helping me sort this out! |
So I decided to go with the ebay "true" wheel bearing and hub assembly for $65 shipped. That and a new front left cv axle from Advanced Auto. Everything came apart and went back together without any major difficulties. I took it for a quick test drive and noticed a sort of rotational hum/vibration above 55 mph. Maybe something to do with the aftermarket axle? I also noticed that the original axle had a rubber doughnut on the shaft, whereas the replacement axle did not. What is this doughnut thing on the original axle?
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