It's been some time since I was comfortable in auto repairs, technology has left me unprepared. The car at issue is my elderly neighbor's that I maintain the basics for her. It's a 2003 Accord EX, 2.4L Auto trans and 63k miles.
So, the problem history. Twice last Fall, Aug and Sept, after a quick shopping trip of less than 30 mins, the car would not start. Just like a low battery condition where it would slowly crank and die out, dash indicator lights dim and go out. Even if lights were left on, that wouldn't explain that much battery discharge in such a short time.
The car was checked out at a trusted shop, all systems OK. Even left over night to try to recreate the condition. Nada.


All through our severe Chicago winter temps, it started OK, considering a 5yo battery and -18 degrees.
Same thing happened two weeks ago. Each time it jump starts with no problem and I can't find any battery, charge system, or cable connection problem. After a jump, the problem seems to go away.
This time, the car is at home with the same start problem to find. Lucky me. The starter engages and tries to crank, dash lights dim and then nothing, just like a low battery condition. Battery is at full voltage, cable connections are clean. I removed the Positive cable plastic cover and tape to inspect for signs of corrosion, none.
I'm armed with above the basic knowledge and tools, digital multi meter, Haynes repair manual, and this forum. And a day off work. I need to make this vehicle dependable ASAP.


Thanks.

 

Test the voltage when the battery is under load (like when you try to start the car).

You can stop by a parts store and have them test the battery for you.

 

Agreed... Batteries (esp one 5 years old), can have 12 volts at rest, but under load zippy. They call it a "surface charge"

Sounds like a new battery is in their future.

 

And while the battery is out, being tested, be sure to clean the gound cable. I would also check the other end of the ground cable where it connects to the body and then to the trans/engine.

 

Good advice so far, thanks. My experience with batteries is when they are weak from age they aren't able start a car at -13 degrees, then fail at 40+.
The story so far is when I first posted here, the car wouldn't start. The neighbor needed it to run, so after an hour on a charger, it has been starting fine since. The one tool I didn't have was a load tester, so I bought one. You all know how it is with tools, gotta have one of everything!
As soon as her schedule and mine coincide, I'll be using my new load tester and post results. Given the erratic starting history, the battery may be bad, but I suspect a parasitic voltage draw. Had this happen on an AMC decades ago. Went through batteries and alternators like crazy till I found a temporary short in the seat belt interlock system.
In the mean time, at least the neighbor has a new set of jumper cables in the trunk. What else would a guy give a lady he cares for for Christmas?

 

OK, the story so far. Old battery checked good in the 400 CCA range, but cells had low specific gravity. Bought new battery and installed. Still suspecting a drain somewhere, I had the Neg cable off and attached an ampmeter. It's a digital Metex 3800 model and I'm not sure how to properly read the amp scale. In the highest setting, 20u20, it read .76. Pulling fuses under the hood one at a time, no change till the one marked 'back up ACC', #15 40A. The read out dropped to .06. Doing the same with an old needle type meter in the 300m range, it pegged out with that fuse in, and just a quarter of scale with fuse out.
Time to find a schematic of what all this circuit does.

 

You were testing on the 20A/20 microA range. It depends which input socket was selected; 2A or 20A input. If 2A input, the 0.76 would be 0.76 microA (not a problem), however if 20A input was used, this would be 0.76A (high enough to be a problem)

If reading was 0.76A, Fuse 15 (40A) services other fused circuits; 5-6-8-9 in under hood fuse box and 7 in under dash fuse box. You could better ID where the drain is by removing 5-9 fuses sequentially leaving 15 in place.

good luck

 

The test lead was in the unfused (to be safe) 20A socket. Therefore, a problem. The #15 is a larger size fuse in shape and I couldn't find a schematic of all what it does. Is that schematic available on this forum, or a link to find it?
So, thanks Tex, now I have 5 options to narrow down the problem.
I have understood that .50 microA was the norm. If you say .76mA is acceptable, OK. That difference wouldn't drain a battery in short time anyway.
The car owner is having an angiogram today and can't drive for a few days anyway.

 

For a 2003 Accord, if the draw is less than 50 mA, it’s normal; if it’s 50 mA or more, it’s excessive.

See this thread for more info.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...y-drain-57492/

 

Autozone has free repair guides w/ electric wiring diagrams. I checked and your model is supported. I think you will have to register to get access.

good luck