95 Accord EX Sedan 4-banger

For the past year my rear passenger window will not roll down. So I started troubleshooting today:

1st troubleshooting:

-Applied 12v > window motor harness via battery, it rolled down. Reversed the polarity and it rolled up. The window had no problem going up and down.

-Tested the harness to make sure 12v was going to the motor via multimeter and it displayed 12v once I hit the window switch. Hit the window switch the other way and it showed -12v.

-Took the switch from the other rear door, plugged it in, same thing, so that ruled out that the rear switch was the issue.

-Raised the window down via 12v>window motor harness, plugged the harness back into factory wiring and raised the window up with the window switch w/o issue. It still will not let the window down. When hitting the switch to let the window down, it doesn't make any noises or indications that it is trying to let the window down.

- All wiring is in OEM condition and none of the wires seem to show any signs of breakage or corrosion.


2nd troubleshooting:

-Purchased a new master drivers switch (will be returning it today) and also borrowed one from a friends accord that works. The window still would not go down. So that rules out the master drivers switch.


3rd troubleshooting:

-Pulled the master, jump the WHT/YEL to the YEL/GRN and then the YEL to BLK, and the "lock out" switch is ok, turned the key to on, and the rear passenger window did nothing. Since it did nothing, I pulled the rear switch and did not unplug it and turned the key back on, with the jump wires in the master still in place. I saw 12v on the YEL/GRN (pin "B) wire. To go further, I then tested for 12v on the RED/YEL wire (pin "C") and saw 12v on the meter.

-Pulled the rear switch again today to verify and didn't unplug it turned the key on with jump wires still in place at the master drivers switch:
12v on YEL/GRN (pin B)
12v on RED/BLU (pin D)
12v on YEL (pin E)
12v on RED/YEL (pin C)

Actually, I saw 12v on all the wires at the rear switch (with the master jump wires still jumped in place) in all of the wires except the WHT/YEL (0V)at the rear switch! This has me puzzled!

Any suggestions anyone?

 

Nice to see you here.

Something is up with the YEL to the rear swtich. At the master we jumped it with the BLK, this should be the ground. Can you verify that at the master switch, meaning there is continutiy to ground.

Or better yet, pull the jumper on the YEL to BLK on the master, apply ground directly to the YEL (pin E) at the rear switch.

 

So are you saying remove the jumper from YEL to BLK and keep the other wire jumped on the master then apply negative ground directly to the YEL (PIN E) at the rear switch? Just want to make sure I am understanding this correctly.

 

Yes.....remove the ground jump from the master _ YEL to BLK _ and apply a ground at the rear switch.....to pin D (red/blu). Do me a fover and test for voltage on that pin before doing it.

Again, nice to see you over here

 

ah, s@#%. I hope you see this. Pull the connector from the rear switch.......PLEASE.

Jump the YEL/GRN to RED/YEL...apply ground to the RED/BLU......please I hope you see this before doing what I posted....I'm worried the 12v is going across the pins of the rear switch...wht/yel.

 

Yep , saw it before I headed out to test and thanks for the invite to this awesome forum. I have been a member here for quite some time just browsing and searching.

 

I did this and the window raised down.

So since the window is down I did some more troubleshooting. I plugged the master switch back up, removed all jumper wires from rear switch and plugged it back up als, tried to raise the window up with the master switch, it did not move at all. Tried the rear switch on the passenger side and the window raised up. Like you said, seems there is something going on with the yellow wire...

 

Did I ever say I HATE electrical issues.

Ok, as I read this. The window went down when you applied "ground" to the switch.

I have to say this is one strange issue.

Remove all jumpers from the master switch and then check each wire at the right rear for either voltage or continuity to ground with the key to "on".

I know I'm slow but at least now we know that "ground" is missing from the motor when "down on the window" is needed.

What part of Memphis were you in?

 

Just for giggles, check the number 24 fuse (20A) in the under-hood fuse relay box.

If the fuse is good, swap the power window relay with the radiator fan relay and see if it makes a difference.

 

Ok just finished. Master switch unplugged and rear switch removed, key to on.

Results:

0v on YEL/GRN (pin B)
0v on RED/BLU (pin D)
0v on YEL (pin E)
0v on RED/YEL (pin C)
12v on WHT/YEL (pin A)

Put the multimeter in resistance mode via 20k ohms:

1. on YEL/GRN (pin B)
1. on RED/BLU (pin D)
1. on YEL (pin E)
1. on RED/YEL (pin C)
-7.06 on WHT/YEL (pin A)

I use to live in Memphis in the late 80's and early 90's in "MC Hammer" days lol
My father was in the military so I have been on the road pretty much all my life. Pretty fun life huh?