Remove radiator: What to do with ATF lines?
I removing the radiator and see there are ATF cooling lines that need to be removed. Do I need to plug them after taking them off? Or clamp the lines?
Tim |
Personally, I'd plug them.
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I would probably wrap something over the ends of the lines to prevent dust from getting in there.
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Originally Posted by poorman212
(Post 246508)
Personally, I'd plug them.
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
(Post 246510)
I would probably wrap something over the ends of the lines to prevent dust from getting in there.
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Paper towel works for me. You don't need an absolute seal, just to stop dripping.
good luck |
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 246514)
Paper towel works for me. You don't need an absolute seal, just to stop dripping.
Is there a fixed amount that will come out or could it flow until all the ATF is gone? Plan was to take it out this today, get it to a shop Monday morning (to fix the split seam along the top), and put it back in Monday eve. The lines would be open for a couple of days. Thanks for the help. |
You could put each fitting into a baggie and securely close it with a nylon wiretie or even try duct tape to hold it in place.
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There is only small amount of drainage. If you left it open, you might lose 1-2 oz.
I don't think you'll find a radiator shop that will repair that radiator. New replacements are good quality and cheap; < $150. good luck |
Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 246534)
There is only small amount of drainage. If you left it open, you might lose 1-2 oz.
I don't think you'll find a radiator shop that will repair that radiator. New replacements are good quality and cheap; < $150. I see Autozone has an Denso-made OEM replacement and the tank is plastic! The one currently in the car has a metal tank. Thanks for the help. |
I thought they all had plastic tanks. This would be a good time to change the transmission fluid too.
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Check around, you may be able to find an all metal replacement. Plastic has improved, but still is not as durable as aluminum or brass. Rockauto, Ebay and Amazon are potential mail order sources.
good luck |
Bleeder bolt on V6?
I'm looking at the V6 supplement to the 98-99 service manual. It looks like there isn't a bleeder bolt for the V6.
Can anyone confirm that? |
Originally Posted by v.tew
(Post 246562)
The one currently in the car has a metal tank.
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I've got it all together but the ATF fixtures are leaking. Kinda hard to tighten now where they are, plus I have only a crescent wrench.
Anybody know the size or torque specification for those fixtures. |
Did you remove ATF fixtures from old radiator to install in new? Usually a replacement radiator has hose barbs installed? You will have to tighten by feel. I would be careful as overtightening could damage the radiator body.
good luck |
If it's a flare-nut you should really use a flare-nut wrench to tighten it. Those nuts are very thin, and damage easily.
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
(Post 246657)
Did you remove ATF fixtures from old radiator to install in new? Usually a replacement radiator has hose barbs installed? You will have to tighten by feel. I would be careful as overtightening could damage the radiator body
The long: The new radiator came new ATF fixtures that I had to bolt on to the radiator. I used those, but they leaked because I didn't tighten them enough. I pulled the radiator (again, always got to do things twice) and tightened them up with a bigger crescent. Too big, in fact. One of them tore, if you can believe it. Luckily it didn't strip the male half sticking out of the radiator. At that point, I replaced them with the ATF fixtures from the old radiator. The new ones were wimpy, like a thin bolt with a small cone on top of it. And the pipe seemed grainy and thin. (I'll get post some pictures later this week.) The old ones, which I think came off a Honda radiator, were beefier. The bolt was thicker and it became the cone. They were much easier to tighten and instilled much more confidence that they were going to hold. I'll bet the Honda radiator (from hondapartsnow.com for $233) will have the ATF fixtures installed and tightened to spec. The Spectra Premium I got from AutoZone (for $128) didn't. Might with worth the extra money just for that. Anyhoo, it's all back together for tomorrow (which was the goal.) Thanks for all the help. -- Tim PS: Here's some info I got from Spectrum Premium on installing the ATF hose barbs:
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Originally Posted by EXV6NIGHTHAWK
(Post 246674)
If it's a flare-nut you should really use a flare-nut wrench to tighten it. Those nuts are very thin, and damage easily.
18mm was the biggest I had, then it was the crescents. The old ATF fixtures were maybe 19mm. The new flare nuts were bigger than the old ones. -- Tim |
Originally Posted by v.tew
(Post 246506)
I removing the radiator and see there are ATF cooling lines that need to be removed. Do I need to plug them after taking them off? Or clamp the lines?
Tim i stick a bolt in each hose ,,,, |
2 Attachment(s)
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...1&d=1310846996
Originally Posted by v.tew
(Post 246688)
The short: It's in and not leaking.
The long: The new radiator came new ATF fixtures that I had to bolt on to the radiator. I used those, but they leaked because I didn't tighten them enough. I pulled the radiator (again, always got to do things twice) and tightened them up with a bigger crescent. Too big, in fact. One of them tore, if you can believe it. Luckily it didn't strip the male half sticking out of the radiator. At that point, I replaced them with the ATF fixtures from the old radiator. The new ones were wimpy, like a thin bolt with a small cone on top of it. And the pipe seemed grainy and thin. (I'll get post some pictures later this week.) The old ones, which I think came off a Honda radiator, were beefier. The bolt was thicker and it became the cone. They were much easier to tighten and instilled much more confidence that they were going to hold. I'll bet the Honda radiator (from hondapartsnow.com for $233) will have the ATF fixtures installed and tightened to spec. The Spectra Premium I got from AutoZone (for $128) didn't. Might with worth the extra money just for that. Anyhoo, it's all back together for tomorrow (which was the goal.) Thanks for all the help. -- Tim PS: Here's some info I got from Spectrum Premium on installing the ATF hose barbs:
Here's some pictures of the new ATF host barbs (on the driveway) and the old one (installed). Notice how one of the new ones tore when I over-tightened it. New: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...1&d=1310847297 Old: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...1&d=1310847297 |
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