ok Kris.. I'm going to take your advice. So heres how I will proceed from where I am at now, tell me if you think otherwise...
...I just got done successfully jumping the plug (Male piece) over the ECT switch A with a paperclip and fans turned on (relays and fuses...OK)

1) I am going to refill the drained coolant system and bleed the air out with the car off.
2) Turn the car on, open bleeder valve again and allow vehicle to run for 5 to 10 minutes with bleeder valve open, adding coolant as necessary to radiator, or until I see if its gushing out the bleeder valve as it does when car is off. (Is this because the thermostat is open when the car is off and seals up when the car is on until a certain temperature?? I'm a little confused by that)
3) Turn A/C on with car on to see if fans work.
4) Leave car on until I am confident air is out of system
5) Leave car on until either overheating signals on temp guage or fans come on.
--> If fans come on then everything should conclude
--> If fans don't come on...
6) Drain cooling system and take the radiator, lower hose, and thermostat apart again
7) replace new thermostat with original Honda thermostat (I believe) that was in their to begin with.
8) Cut about an inch or two off lower radiator hose (I think it may be a little longer than it needs to be, it's bent SLIGHTLY more than needed in one spot near the radiator)
9) Put it all back together and refill cooling system with old thermostat
10) Repeat steps 1 - 5
--> If everything seems to work OK, go take the new thermostat back and purchase a higher quality thermostat from Honda this time around and then take it all apart and put together one more time.. phewwww

---> Does this seem like a good plan.... in accordance with your suspicions Kris? I hope so, if not let me know if you have other suggestions..
-----> One more question I have... is it alright to keep draining and refilling without flushing the system like this while trying to diagnose? I mean I haven't driven it anywhere I think it would be but wanted an opinion.. I also am not draining the block, I was never able to find that bolt from any of the diagrams or tutorials I came across.

 

Also, just for my own satisfaction in know exactly what is working and not, now that I know the fan motors are ok and that all the wiring, relays and fuses are ok.. Is their anyway to test the two switches and the water temp sensor just so I know for sure. In the Honda service manual their is a test they show for the switches where you heat up water with the end of the switch in the water until it heats up to the degree where the switch will turn on, how do I know if the switch is on or off, what are the indicators that I am looking for?

 

If you have a volt meter, you need to switch it to either resistance or open/short.

With the sensor unplugged, there should be infinite resistance (open circuit) when the engine is cold across the two pins of temp sensor a. When the engine coolant gets above 199F is when the circuit should read ~0 resistance (closed circuit) on the temp sensor a.

My volt meter has a temperature setting, but not sure about yours. There is an IR device that can read temperatures. It may be easier to drain the coolant into a clean container. Remove the sensor, put just the sensor part into boiling water (212F) and see if the sensor reads closed.

 

thank you PaHonda, I will try that and I will check the voltmeter for its options... I have to get ready for work so I couldn't really go to far into the car just yet but I have some partial results of what I just did....

I refilled the coolant and bled the system, then I turned on the car with radiator cap off and the bleeder valve open. I let it run at idle that way for about 15 to 20 minutes. the coolant at the radiator cap area started to boil over the top so i threw a funnel their to catch some and a rag over the top of it. I saw that more started coming out the bleeder valve when the coolant started to boil but not a steady stream, just squirts, and then a low pressure tinkle off the side of the valve, so i closed it and shut off the engine, fans never came on.

I then threw the radiator cap on again because its boiling over all over the place and decided to run the engine until either the fans came on or it overheated that way. Well... the fans never came on and the temp gauge read directly in the center (normal) but a good amount of steam was coming up from under the radiator cap for a good 5 minutes, so I shut it off and have to get ready for work.. I'm stumped. I am almost convinced I need to disassemble and redo it with the old thermostat, or.. that it is that ECT switch possibly.

 

From you description it sounds like you never gave it time for thermostat to open. You still have air in the system also, nothing abnormal after replacing Cooling system component.

If you can't get the air out of the system you may have blown the head gasket but it is hard to tell so far.

 

how much time am I supposed to give it? And should the radiator cap be off the whole time?? because the coolant is boiling all over and out the radiator opening after a good 15 minutes. I was sitting out their for a good 30 min. all in all waiting for those fans to come on and they never did. And as far as the air, what else besides leaving the bleeder valve open can I do? and how long am I supposed to leave that open while the engine is at idle. It sounds like what I have to do is leave the car sitting their for like 2 hours steaming waiting for fans that don't seem like they will ever turn on. Should I go drive it around the block again? this time for longer, if I did that the valve should open FOR SURE because the temps WOULD reach what they needed to be at.

 

The way I bleed any air out of the system is to have the coolant drained, open the bleeder valve, fill the radiator and watch bleeder valve. Once air stops spitting out and a steady stream of coolant comes out, shut the valve and top off the radiator. Do this with the engine NOT running and cold.

The coolant may be pouring out, because liquids expand when they heat up. That is what the overflow bottle is for.

The temperature gauge should be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the way up with the honda thermostat in there. Your aftermarket may open up at a different temperature.

You will know if air is in the system, because the idle rpm will be all over the place.

As for testing, it is not simple to determine the coolant temperature unless you have an IR temperature reading.

Temp sensor B turns on the fans when the car is turned off, and it sounds like it is working from your description. Temp sensor A turns on the fans when the car is running.

Temp sensor B circuit closes at a temperature is higher than Temp sensor A. So, if Temp sensor B reads closed, then temp sensor A should read closed. If A does not read closed, then you should replace it.

 

well it doesn't idle all over the place and I have bled the system while the car was off an cold and waited for a steady stream, but then I also bled the system with the car running and it wasn't as steady of a stream. So.. maybe what I will do is drive it on over the Honda or an auto parts store, and see if they can test the two switches for me to see if they open, because I think the fans not turning on seem to be my only problem that I am confused about

 

I am sure the dealership can test it for you.

Really, you just need to find the open/short setting on a digital volt meter. It may be under the diode test.

If the volt meter leads are not touching, the meter should read open. When you touch the leads, the meter should read closed and the meter usually beeps.

Those sensors read closed when the coolant temperature rises above the set temperature on each sensor. 200F for sensor A and 223F for sensor B.

That is why when sensor B is closed, sensor A should read closed.

 

here is a good link to do some reading and diagnose

http://www.techautorepairs.com/overheating.html