General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Replacing the Clutch Pipe Assy.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:21 AM
irl5fan's Avatar
Newest Of Newbies
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Default Replacing the Clutch Pipe Assy.

I have a 97 Accord LX 2.2L, 5 speed. I was trying to replace the clutch master cylinder yesterday, but could not get the clutch pipe fitting unscrewed from the master cylinder. I ended up rounding off the nut a little bit, so I stopped before any further damage was done.

The clutch pipe assembly is metal and I found a replacement assembly here, link>> Part Detail part number 46960-SV4-A00.

My question is, how do you re-install this? Would you be able to feed it through everything or do you have to remove a bunch of stuff to install it from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder? Or is there some way to cut the existing line, flare it, and install some sort of flexible pipe to connect to the existing line and screw into the new master cylinder.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
 

Last edited by irl5fan; 03-18-2013 at 09:37 AM.
  #2  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:27 AM
live2rice's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alaska
Posts: 8,725
Default

Its not that bad to replace the line. I'd say it'd be easier than the other option you listed of cutting and flaring. Think its just held on to the firewall with some clips.
 
  #3  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:32 AM
irl5fan's Avatar
Newest Of Newbies
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Default

Originally Posted by live2rice
Its not that bad to replace the line. I'd say it'd be easier than the other option you listed of cutting and flaring. Think its just held on to the firewall with some clips.
So if I do a complete replacement do I literally just weave the new line through the engine compartment, the same path the existing one runs? I just see this being difficult, as it is a rigid metal line (possibly even breaking or cracking it). It is held on the firewall with clips.
 
  #4  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:52 AM
live2rice's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alaska
Posts: 8,725
Default

Yes just weave it through. I never replaced that line but I did replace all the brake lines in my 5g accord which run almost the same path and it wasn't that bad.
 
  #5  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:58 AM
irl5fan's Avatar
Newest Of Newbies
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Default

Originally Posted by live2rice
Yes just weave it through. I never replaced that line but I did replace all the brake lines in my 5g accord which run almost the same path and it wasn't that bad.
Great, thanks a lot!
 
  #6  
Old 03-18-2013, 10:13 AM
Dr. Drivability's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,149
Default

one reason you may have rounded off the original fitting is because you didn't use a tubing style wrench. pick one up in the right size at the autoparts store. makes things a lot easier. and if you did use one...shame on you!
 
  #7  
Old 03-18-2013, 10:19 AM
irl5fan's Avatar
Newest Of Newbies
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Default

Originally Posted by Dr. Drivability
one reason you may have rounded off the original fitting is because you didn't use a tubing style wrench. pick one up in the right size at the autoparts store. makes things a lot easier. and if you did use one...shame on you!
You're right, at first I didn't have a flare nut wrench to use so I tried just a regular open ended box wrench...didn't work out so well. I bought the flare nut wrench, but it didn't seem to help in this case. The nut seems to be between sizes. 11mm a tad small and 12mm is just a hair big. Doesn't help that the space you're trying to work with is barely big enough to get your hand in, let alone try to hold on to and turn a wrench!
 

Last edited by irl5fan; 03-18-2013 at 10:21 AM.
  #8  
Old 03-18-2013, 10:23 AM
Dr. Drivability's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,149
Default

a lot of times, those fittings are easier to get to from under the car...if you have a hoist of course.
 
  #9  
Old 03-18-2013, 07:13 PM
irl5fan's Avatar
Newest Of Newbies
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Default

Well after looking at the other end of the clutch pipe (near the transmission where it screws into the clutch damper) it doesn't look like that one will come off any easier. The nut is very corroded and seems like it is between sizes again like the nut at the master cylinder side. I don't want to round this side out. May just have to take this one in unless there is a way to splice in a new section of line at the master cylinder end. Anyone have any experience with this?
 
  #10  
Old 03-18-2013, 07:58 PM
Dr. Drivability's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,149
Default

it can be done, i know napa sells lines and fittings. you'll need a flaring tool. but now that i reread this thread, you may want to replace the slave cylinder as well. cuz me betcha if you don't it will be the next failure point and your back to square one. get the line the master and slave and have it done. even at a shop supplying your own line, i can't imagine it costing more than a couple hundred bucks.
 


Quick Reply: Replacing the Clutch Pipe Assy.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:36 PM.