Sweet thanks will download that when I get home any thoughts on the shop not being able to get a reading and which fuse to check

 

It is just good to know that you have an EX accord, because some parts are different compared to the LX/DX accords.

The fuses you want to check are the ECU fuse and the backup/radio fuse. You may want to check all of them.

 

Ha sweet now my door locks work the clock works now too lol little improvements go a long way. Gonna pull up the manual seems to help The idle when I put my finger over it we will see! Thanks for all the help guys!

 

OK so finally got the diagram and it goes to the iar valve located next to the battery by the stock air box if u still have one. I CANT FIND IT! Can some one take a pic of theres and show me where iit is in a zoomed oout pic? If mine is truly gogone sshould iI just cap the leak or is this something that i kneed to make the car run correctly?

 

As I said to begin with, someone remove that to install the hot air intake......try capping it???? I keep mine stock so removing things like that, sorry I can't help.

See this for pic's of "where it went"....

honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2956060

 

Thanks for the link looks like when u install a short ram or hot air intake you have to remove it so I am going to cap it off. So I got my ccar back from the shopping will be back in qq few to add the laundry list.

 

OK so looks llike there is corrosion on my cap and rotor could this cause my issue with the idle and the not going over 4k?

There is no oil on the manifold now so we will assume for now that was a fluke, but I will keep a close eye on it.

So this is the list from the shop....

Cap rotor corrosion
Manifold heatsheild missing ( is that important I have it?)
Coolant low probable cause of surge (will this cause surge?)
ABS fluid unit leaking (not sure what he is talking about says it is located left front thoughts?
Has intermittent miss fire (probably from cap and rotor rright?)
Crank senser wires not connected correctly (where is it located and what effect would this have?)
Oil leaking from balance shaft seal (what is this and can I fix it myself)
Front pads and rotors and hub bearings (this sounds like a pain is there a way around the bearings?)
Rear pads and rotors
2 swaybar end links
1 left Cv axel will need soon
AC recharged and working great :-)
Going to do plugs which ones should I run and at what gap?

To fix the oil leak he said the following is needed...
Valve cover set
Timing cover top and bottom
Timing belt kit
Balance shaft belt
1 cam seal
1 crank seal
1 balance shaft Seal
1 oil pump o ring
1 waterpump
Coolant

Does this sound right? Its leaking something he says oil but I can't track it down and my oil level has not changed.

So what are your thoughts help me out here oh and he said iI should just get rid of the car it needs to much what do you guys think?

 

What work are you planning on doing vs what you will have the mechanic do?

What is the max you want to spend to get the car running properly?

 

I thin the car would be willing to fix right? I'm only 1k in but I wakna spread it oout over a couple months I don't see why I couldnt do anything on the list going to do rear pads and rotor plugs cap and rotor first. Looked at the front today and they put new pads on recently the rotors up front have small groove but not rreal bad they will eat the new pads but will be perfectly fine for 2 or 3 more months. So I guess the next big thing to fix would bbe the ooil leak just not sure what he was talking about I have done plenty of engine work but its been Chevy ford and dodge and mostly v8 so just a small learning curve

And the crank senser and ABS resivor.

 

It looks like there are three groups of items that need to be done.

1. The quick and easy stuff.

The cap, rotor, and plugs are simple to DIY. The spark plugs you want are the NGK ZFR5F-11. They are about $2 each at the parts store, the gap and everything is already set. The heat shield is there for a reason. That is something you can pick up at a junkyard, and also simple to do.

Figure out why the coolant is low. You can rent a pressure test from a parts store. See if the radiator holds ~15 psi. Check that the cap holds pressure. Air in the cooling system will mess up the idle. You should plug up that open spot where the vacuum line is missing.

You should look at the shop manual that I suggested to see how to add fluid to the abs. Keep and eye on the level and where it is leaking from. Your regular brakes will still work, even if the abs is not working.

2. The intermediate stuff.

You will find out that the front rotors are a pain in the *** to replace. If you have a wheel bearing problem, you will want to do the bearings, rotors, CV joint(s). You might want to do the rotor over the hub conversion if you plan on keeping this car for a while. Watch the procedure on Ericthecarguy to replace front rotors, bearings, CV joints on the accord to see how this stuff is done.

3. The difficult stuff.

The timing belt. This is where you will change the timing belt, the shaft seals (the oil leaks you mentioned would be taken care of when replacing these seals), the water pump, tensioner pulleys. You need new (or junkyard) timing belt covers. This can be done on your own.

That ericthecarguy.com site has a video for sale on how to do the timing belt for ~$10. You can also change out the valve cover gasket and the upper seals. The crank sensor is under the timing belt cover. Try to find out what the mechanic means about the sensor not being connected properly.