i have a 93 honda accord lx and i am having a problem with how it runs on a really hot day it will not start, if you stop to fast it will die, if i turn to sharp to fast it will die. i replaced my fuel pump and filter and cleaned my iac. A friend told me it is my distributor( ignighter coil ) then another friend told me it is a main relay under the dash on the driver side i don't know whose advice to take i am broke and need to fix this problem

also if i run the a/c my idle drops from about 800 to 650 then if it doesnt die its a really ruff idle, about a year ago i had my 60k mile tune up and at the same time i put new motor mounts in and did my valve timing

 

Let me see if I got this right, issues are
1. On a really hot day car will not start. When this happens, what are we missing-Spark, Fuel, Starter not working?

2. When running, if you come to a quick stop the car dies. Does it start back up?

3. When running, sharp turns the car dies. Again does it start up after.

For #1, if I'm understanding correctly I would think the main realy. Need to go through the testing before just replacing.

For #2 and #3. I'd like to know more. Does it only do this after the car is warm? If so then I'm going to lean towards something in the EGR system or IAC. Again need to test everything to be sure...

Please let me know if I'm close on the issues.

 

on a really hot day it does not want to start but i can get it started once i do i drives fine unless i turn the ac on then it drops idle from 800 to 650 ish


ok on the other problem if i stop to fast or turn to sharp it will die but then it starts right back up, but after the car starts to warm up it gets harder and harder to start it will start but it takes persistence and i am the only one that can get it started i guess

i do know about cars but my mind is boggled i dont know much about these imports

 

I leaning towards two different things causing the issues.
93 should be FI. Main relay is the "guess" at starting issues on a really hot day. There are testing prcedures for confirming....car locked up in the sun...doors open for some time while you are pulling out your hair as to why it won't start then after the inside cools off....finally starts. When it does this, listen for the fuel pump to prime. If it is the main relay, there are posts about "fixing" the old one or you can replace.
For the cutting off. Just guessing here as I'm not driving the car. Does it seem to be more related to sudden throttle release more than "quick" stops or turning? And does it only happen after the car is warmed up?

 

The cheapest thing to do first is to check all of your vacuum lines. I find a lot of problems with vacuum lines on hondas. I have people come in all the time and I read codes and usually its O2 sensors and idling issues. A lot of times its something as simple as a dry rotten vacuum line. Just throwing something out there for you to look at.

 

its not fixed yet.....first there is no vacume leaks i recently failed smog for a bad 02 sensor have not fixed that but i dont believe thats the problem....




and number 2 the car will die with a/c on and it is cool in the car when i have the stalling problem......



also when it dies it wants to stay on it fights but it dies but if i put it in neutral i can sometimes get it to stay on..........


i am not sure but i can only hear the fuel pump 3 out of 4 times.....


today i went outside to move it. the car started right up no problem i moved it driving for less than ten seconds then i turned it off went in my house moved my 68 mustang into the side yard then went to pull the car in the garage it started right away then died instantly then wouldn't start. i got it to start but it was hard.

 

I would try to figure out if the main relay is your problem. In the back of the trunk (near the back seat), there is an access panel that has a 3-pin connector going to it.

I would back probe the yellow wire with a needle and connect one end a 12V test light to it. The other end should be connected to a ground. I can describe in more detail if you don't know how to back-probe a connection. Put the back seat down, so you can see the test light in your trunk.

If you turn the key to the II position, you should see the light turn on for about two seconds. The light should stay on when the car is running.

 

can you please give me some more detail and is this a driving test would i be looking for the light to turn off when it dies

 

The light should stay on when driving. You could use some longer wire and have the test light up in the front seat.

Stick a needle into the back of the yellow connector. Get a volt meter and use the continuity setting to make sure that needle is in a closed circuit with the pin. Plug the connector back in. Now you can attach a wire to the needle using an alligator clip.

 

im not really understanding and i dont own a volt meter i only have a test light could i use that