Sizing & Spring Loaded Constant Tension Hose Clamps???
#1
Sizing & Spring Loaded Constant Tension Hose Clamps???
Not severe but urgency in timing [needing to get the car running tomorow--Wednesday]...
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A few questions regarding sizing of spring loaded constant tension hose clamps. Forums research seems to conclude to try to use new spring clamps and avoid using worm clamps. I have decided on using spring clamps. Very tough to find locally, but found some at a newly opened Ace Hardware. I thought this small project is completely straight foward but reading a bit on the net and trying to find them locally have been tough. Dealer here in San Jose was asking $11/each.
I am replacing a heater coolant hose that is 5/8" inch inside diameter and 15/16" outside diameter [same as factory]. If we want the "correct" tension, would we want to use spring clamps of size 15/16" or 7/8"?
The damaged hose has strong impressions from the factory clamps [seems to be 7/8" clamps]. I bought 7/8, 15/16 clamps. Which size do you think is best/correct? Wanting to minimize risk of leaking [if a bit loose] or gashed hose or plastic water inlet valve connector [if too tight]. I am leaning towards 7/8 [in between ID and OD].
Thanks
--------------------------
A few questions regarding sizing of spring loaded constant tension hose clamps. Forums research seems to conclude to try to use new spring clamps and avoid using worm clamps. I have decided on using spring clamps. Very tough to find locally, but found some at a newly opened Ace Hardware. I thought this small project is completely straight foward but reading a bit on the net and trying to find them locally have been tough. Dealer here in San Jose was asking $11/each.
I am replacing a heater coolant hose that is 5/8" inch inside diameter and 15/16" outside diameter [same as factory]. If we want the "correct" tension, would we want to use spring clamps of size 15/16" or 7/8"?
The damaged hose has strong impressions from the factory clamps [seems to be 7/8" clamps]. I bought 7/8, 15/16 clamps. Which size do you think is best/correct? Wanting to minimize risk of leaking [if a bit loose] or gashed hose or plastic water inlet valve connector [if too tight]. I am leaning towards 7/8 [in between ID and OD].
Thanks
Last edited by windnsalsa; 04-24-2018 at 09:07 PM.
#2
Online Honda dealer show Honda Part No.: 19513-PE0-003 Clamp, Water Hose (21.7mm) (Chuo Spring).
Based on that, the 7/8" clamp should be closer to the OEM clamp.
FRACTION TO DECIMAL AND MM TABLE
Based on that, the 7/8" clamp should be closer to the OEM clamp.
FRACTION TO DECIMAL AND MM TABLE
#3
Online Honda dealer show Honda Part No.: 19513-PE0-003 Clamp, Water Hose (21.7mm) (Chuo Spring).
Based on that, the 7/8" clamp should be closer to the OEM clamp.
FRACTION TO DECIMAL AND MM TABLE
Based on that, the 7/8" clamp should be closer to the OEM clamp.
FRACTION TO DECIMAL AND MM TABLE
#4
You may be looking at the wrong diagram. What I listed is for the following:
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...ter-valve.html
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...ter-valve.html
#5
Yea, hondapartscheap has a waterpump diagram. Your diagram is correct.
It was too difficult to slide the 7/8 when hose was over the fitting. And still difficult even after removing the distributor to get better access. Afterwards, I changed to the 15/16 and was very successful. For some reason, it was harder on the plastic valve end. I had to use a bit of soap to finish sliding the clamp on that end.
This should have been a straight forward project. The more I read about things, the more detailed the project became. Probably should have reused the old factory clamps, which are wider, more robust and easier to secure with pliers. Several have mentioned that these spring clamps should not be reused. I'll be keeping them for backups. I tried 3-4 different type of pliers. Of course, would have been easier more dedicated pliers. The worm clamps would have been much easier.
Then, I discovered the hose from dealer had a smaller OD, which probably would have been an issue with the original clamps, which I was planning to re-use before finally finding some aftermarket ones from Ace. But, I returned that hose.
I bought a 10ft non-molded heater hose at Lowes and was planning to use it because it was cheaper than the molded one from dealer and auto parts store, would have hoses available for other cars at the house, dealer was OOS at the time. I returned them as well because I observed using it without being molded and thus not at preferrable angle to the fittings would place some angling pressure on the hose and the connectors as well as having the hose touching some plastic wiring housing. Also, the OD was similarly smaller as that from the dealer.
I ended up using the molded one from Autozone which had same OD as that of the original one.
Because the car belongs to my mother, I didn't feel comfortable with the straight hose, as I won't be around to monitor it. If it were mine, I would have made use of the Lowes hose.
It was too difficult to slide the 7/8 when hose was over the fitting. And still difficult even after removing the distributor to get better access. Afterwards, I changed to the 15/16 and was very successful. For some reason, it was harder on the plastic valve end. I had to use a bit of soap to finish sliding the clamp on that end.
This should have been a straight forward project. The more I read about things, the more detailed the project became. Probably should have reused the old factory clamps, which are wider, more robust and easier to secure with pliers. Several have mentioned that these spring clamps should not be reused. I'll be keeping them for backups. I tried 3-4 different type of pliers. Of course, would have been easier more dedicated pliers. The worm clamps would have been much easier.
Then, I discovered the hose from dealer had a smaller OD, which probably would have been an issue with the original clamps, which I was planning to re-use before finally finding some aftermarket ones from Ace. But, I returned that hose.
I bought a 10ft non-molded heater hose at Lowes and was planning to use it because it was cheaper than the molded one from dealer and auto parts store, would have hoses available for other cars at the house, dealer was OOS at the time. I returned them as well because I observed using it without being molded and thus not at preferrable angle to the fittings would place some angling pressure on the hose and the connectors as well as having the hose touching some plastic wiring housing. Also, the OD was similarly smaller as that from the dealer.
I ended up using the molded one from Autozone which had same OD as that of the original one.
Because the car belongs to my mother, I didn't feel comfortable with the straight hose, as I won't be around to monitor it. If it were mine, I would have made use of the Lowes hose.
#6
Yea, hondapartscheap has a waterpump diagram. Your diagram is correct.
It was too difficult to slide the 7/8 when hose was over the fitting. And still difficult even after removing the distributor to get better access. Afterwards, I changed to the 15/16 and was very successful. For some reason, it was harder on the plastic valve end. I had to use a bit of soap to finish sliding the clamp on that end.
This should have been a straight forward project. The more I read about things, the more detailed the project became. Probably should have reused the old factory clamps, which are wider, more robust and easier to secure with pliers. Several have mentioned that these spring clamps should not be reused. I'll be keeping them for backups. I tried 3-4 different type of pliers. Of course, would have been easier more dedicated pliers. The worm clamps would have been much easier.
Then, I discovered the hose from dealer had a smaller OD, which probably would have been an issue with the original clamps, which I was planning to re-use before finally finding some aftermarket ones from Ace. But, I returned that hose.
I bought a 10ft non-molded heater hose at Lowes and was planning to use it because it was cheaper than the molded one from dealer and auto parts store, would have hoses available for other cars at the house, dealer was OOS at the time. I returned them as well because I observed using it without being molded and thus not at preferrable angle to the fittings would place some angling pressure on the hose and the connectors as well as having the hose touching some plastic wiring housing. Also, the OD was similarly smaller as that from the dealer.
I ended up using the molded one from Autozone which had same OD as that of the original one.
Because the car belongs to my mother, I didn't feel comfortable with the straight hose, as I won't be around to monitor it. If it were mine, I would have made use of the Lowes hose.
It was too difficult to slide the 7/8 when hose was over the fitting. And still difficult even after removing the distributor to get better access. Afterwards, I changed to the 15/16 and was very successful. For some reason, it was harder on the plastic valve end. I had to use a bit of soap to finish sliding the clamp on that end.
This should have been a straight forward project. The more I read about things, the more detailed the project became. Probably should have reused the old factory clamps, which are wider, more robust and easier to secure with pliers. Several have mentioned that these spring clamps should not be reused. I'll be keeping them for backups. I tried 3-4 different type of pliers. Of course, would have been easier more dedicated pliers. The worm clamps would have been much easier.
Then, I discovered the hose from dealer had a smaller OD, which probably would have been an issue with the original clamps, which I was planning to re-use before finally finding some aftermarket ones from Ace. But, I returned that hose.
I bought a 10ft non-molded heater hose at Lowes and was planning to use it because it was cheaper than the molded one from dealer and auto parts store, would have hoses available for other cars at the house, dealer was OOS at the time. I returned them as well because I observed using it without being molded and thus not at preferrable angle to the fittings would place some angling pressure on the hose and the connectors as well as having the hose touching some plastic wiring housing. Also, the OD was similarly smaller as that from the dealer.
I ended up using the molded one from Autozone which had same OD as that of the original one.
Because the car belongs to my mother, I didn't feel comfortable with the straight hose, as I won't be around to monitor it. If it were mine, I would have made use of the Lowes hose.
#7
But it has been disconcerting to discover various little potential issues such as the replacement part from the dealer had a smaller OD than the original. Then, using these used clamps may cause leaks.
#9
Thanks, project is completed.
#10
That has been my feelings overall. I had planned to re-use them until I visited the last local store and found some aftermarket ones, albeit seemingly inferior ones. Ridiculous dealer here was charging $11 for each clamp, over half the price of their hose!
Thanks, project is completed.
Thanks, project is completed.
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