Hi, new here.

My step daughter bought herself a 93 accord and its acting up. At first it would shut off when coming to a stop on occasion, now it does it all the time.

Idle is good, (other then old motor mounts shaking ) it does fine. Gears shift ok. We even raised the idle but that didnt help.

When coming to a stop, the idle takes a huge dive and stalls the car about 90% of the time unless you come up on the stop really slow and in preparation. It starts right back up no problems and dives well.

The throttle body is very clean and all the hoses appear new.

ABS light is on though and pressing the brake pedal you can hear a hiss sound.

A friend told me to disconnect the hose from the booster and try it. Brakes worked like crap of course but the problem still exists. hooked it back up and was to to press on the brake hard while in drive but parked. Nothing happens. No dip in idle.

I tried driving in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4 and it does it in all of them. Even if I put it in neutral before I come to a stop.

Could it be a Torque Converter problem? It likes to downshift while coming to a stop like a stick in a way. Maybe the lock ujp is stuck? It does it in neutral and I dont have to be going more then 15 mph to replicate the problem.

I am not used to Honda transmissions and can use any help you may be able to provide. Its her fist car and I am eager to get her rolling.

Many thanks in advance.


EDITED - Resolved. Fuel pump screen was dislocated and floating around in tank. Replaced screen and its ok now.

oh yeah its a 93 automatic, 4cyl, 109,000 miles

 

When you disconnected the brake booster, did you plug the vacuum line? If not, then a vacuum leak from the brake booster will make idling difficult. the additional air intake causes problems. Suggest testing w/ brake booster line disconnected and plugged.

You can determine whether Lock-Up Torque Converter is working. Note whether rpms are "slipping" when accelerating , coasting, decelerating. Set speed control and note if rpms remain constant on modest hills; up and down. During deceleration, if LU is on, you will notice engine braking.

Car will absolutely not idle w/ LU permanently on; like coming to a stop w/ clutch engaged on a manual.

good luck

 

Thanks for the quick reply. There is a hose coming from the booster and goes to a plastic valve. It then continues to the engine from there. Where is best to disconnect and plug? Will try as you recommended and will report back tonight when I get home.

 

Doesn't matter where, just find whichever joint in that hose that's easiest to disconnect. Plug the side that goes to the engine so it doesn't allow any excess air into the engine.

Any leaks in that plastic valve? It's just a check-valve so the booster will hold vacuum. But if it's cracked, allowing excess air into the engine, then get a new check valve.

 

I am going to take out the check valve as its easy and plug both ends. Booster and intake. That about right?

 

Won't hurt to plug both ends. Let us know what you find.

good luck

 

Sorry for the late response. Rained like crazy and by the time it was done it was dark and I don't have anything to plug it with. Well nothing I feel comfortable using. I did contemplate using the valve backwards but though against it.

While it rained I did drive it a little, now it stalls before coming to a stop, if I slow down enough it kills it. Thing is, it idles just fine in gear when I restart.

Trans seemed ok.


Will try again in AM.

 

Plugged hose, problem still exists.
I tried slowing down in neutral and use the e brake. Same problem.

 

Try setting the base idle speed correctly, then force it to re-learn the idle-control. See this thread.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/

 

Thanks.

Gave it a shot. The RPMs stayed way low (550) even after warming up for a half hour.
Still have problem.