I am thinking its the alternator. I started it up, turned on the lights and AC and when I pulled the neg cable, she died.

Is that a bad alternator?

 

Plugging the IACV back into the wiring harness should have made a big difference. Expect it to go from from 550 (base idle) up to 750 (operating idle). Maybe your IACV isn't working right. Clean it out with throttlebody cleaner? Maybe it's just bad? Holding idle is the actual job of the IACV, so maybe that what you should suspect.

That might be a bad alternator. But pulling the battery cable while it's running is a bit risky. Voltage spikes would normally be absorbed by the battery (kinda like a big capacitor). Without that damping, you have a small risk of frying the ECU.

 

I am going to clean the IACV and give it a shot.

 

Low idle usually means lack of air supply; dirty throttle plate, throttle body bore, and idle air control valve (IACV). IACV should compensate for dirty throttle plate to some extent, but when all are dirty or blocked, the idle gets lower.

Check DIY section for instructions to clean throttle plate/bore, and IACV.

good luck

 

The IACV was blocked off with a piece of cardboard. I have no idea why the previous owner did that. I removed it and cleaned it. I reset the base idle and it behave properly as far as that goes.

Still having the stalling problem when slowing down. Battery getting low it seems.

Tried a good battery from my truck. Still stalls.

I noticed the lights get brighter and dimmer as I pushed the gas. Looks like I need to replace the alternator anyway. I hope it kills two birds with one stone.

Heading up to the store to have the alternator tested first.

 

Hondas have a load detector that reduces altenator voltage when battery voltage is good. It causes noticeable dimming at times. Many posters have commented. A good way to know the health of your charging system is to install an inexpensive voltmeter called a Battery Monitor. They are available at Walmart for around $15. I've used one for several years and they work well. Battery voltage should be around 14V when alternator is charging and drop to around 12V when not charging, depending on your load.

Did you clean the throttel plate/bore and air passages. They may be blocked preventing compensation for load.

Notice whether the CEL, Alt, and Oil light come on as soon as engine dies. If they don't come on, the keyswitch may be causing the stall.

good luck

 

Low voltage CAN cause some strange problems. If the IACV was blanked off, maybe PO did that because it didn't work properly? Search for vacuum leaks too.

IACV compensates for stuff, but it seems like it only works well if it starts out in the sweet spot of it's control range. If you adjust idle RPM while IACV is active, it'll fight the adjustment & get into a strange position where it doesn't control so good.

Some of your description sounds like the IACV operates sluggish or sticky.

 

I wonder if a cracked rubber part of the harmonic balancer pulley could be part of the problem.

You can use some whiteout to mark a straight line from the center of the crank pulley bolt out to the rim of the pulley. Drive the car for a bit, then see if that line is still straight. It may be a longshot, but this is a pretty simple test.

 

I appreciate all the help.

Alternator passed.

So far no leaks. All hoses are fairly new as well.
Throttle plate and everything in there looks great. I sprayed and wiped anyway but it was pretty clean in there.

I will look into seeing if the IACV is just malfunctioning.

 

Almost thought it was the IACV as it gave me a code 14. then I remembered I had to disconnect it to adjust the idle. Pulled the fuse to clear codes. No more Code 14. No engine codes at all. I never get a CEL when this problem happens.

Getting harder to start now. I can hear the fuel pump no problem though.

Also now as it sits idling, once in a while it dips down pretty low. It didn't do that before. Especially after revving it up. It dips to the point of almost stalling. This is even after adjusting the base idle.

Having surfed around the web a person mentioned they replaced their main relay and it took care of it. Since I have no codes to go by I guess I will just have to throw parts at it until it works. Then again thats what shops do. May as well do it myself.