I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 474,000 miles that has begun to sputter and/or stall when breaking, usually as it drops below 1000 rpm's/5-10 mph. Idle is usually fine unless in gear with the breaks pressed, then it idles rough. Otherwise, the performance is excellent.

The brake light frequently comes on or off right about that 5-10 mph. Also stalls right after I let off the brakes and drop into gear.

However, it only does this when it is at full operating temp. Never when engine is cold.

The brakes feel fine and offer no problems stopping. The brake-pressing tests for the brake booster seem to be fine. However when the car is idling (parked) and I press the brakes, the is a very slight change in the engine idle. Also a slight hissing when pressing (may have always been there but never noticed). Isn't throwing any codes for any brake issues.

However, I am showing the following codes:
-p0401 -EGR
-p1491 -EGR valve lift insufficient flow
-p0420 -catalyst system below threshold
-p303 -cylinder #3 misfire
-p1381 -distributor CYP sensor (distrib was changed maybe two yrs ago)

Also -p1259- VTEC system malfunction (assuming from low oil pressure. Pushing 500,000 miles ... has a significant oil leak around valve cover)

Vacuum leak somewhere and/or EGR valve clogged/stuck open will be the obvious first look. This is such a great car and I have had no significant issues with it. Still looks fantastic. However I really don't wish to start throwing a lot cash into a car with a half a million miles.

Looking for advice as to where to start first from more experienced hands. Curious about the fact that it never stalls when the engine is cold.

 

Check the oil level first.

Four or six cyl motor?

Tune up items up to date?

A good cleaning of the TB and IAC can't hurt anything and costs almost nothing.

From there, I'd go for the egr codes first, just me. Again based upon engine the way to go about it are different but I'd would start there.

When cold there is "extra air/fuel" being given to the engine. Once warm you are down to the TB plate and IAC to control the idle when there is a sudden drop of the gas.

 

Thanks for the reply. Is a 4 cylinder. Had the plugs and wires changed a month ago. had a mechanic look at it, he tried a new EGR valve and said nothing changed. Said it was reading low compression in one of the cylinders.

Got the car back, stalling got worse, then today I got the dreaded flashing check engine light. Got really bad vibes about this now. Hoping it may be something relatively insignificant like the EGR, clogged ports, fuel injectors, vacuum line leak or maybe just the leaking gaskets I know are shot. Now fearing something like a rebuild or new engine.

Taking to my mechanic next week (he was booked for so long I tried a different mechanic). No signs of a blown head. Exhaust valve(s)??? Although during a paper test it doesn't seem to suck back into the exhaust at all. Not sure what all the mechanic checked, but he was not overly optimistic.

Still runs great when cold or above 800 RPM's. This car is like family and it makes me sick thinking about it. Has been such a great car I feel disloyal bailing on it if it turns out to be bad.

 

Based on all the codes, the misfire, EGR code and the flashing CEL it's probably clogged EGR ports. It sounds like you're going through exactly what happened to my car.

I don't think there's a test specifically for clogged EGR ports. Easiest way is to take off the intake and look inside. It's important to know EGR ports are not an essential engine component, they are an emissions thing, but if the right amount air is not reaching the cylinder(like in your case perhaps) you have a misfire. Could also be a potential fuel issue, so you could check your fuel pressure and eliminate that possibility, then you'll know it's an air issue.