I drive a 1997, Accord Wagon EX, F22 engine. After about a week of the starter sort of "hiccuping" just as it started to turn over, the starter no longer turns, nor does the solenoid even click. I removed the starter and had it tested at O'Reilys, it passed (and turned). They tested the battery and it passed a load test and tested at 12.6VDC.
I've checked the 50A Starter fuse and the 100A Battery fuse- OK.
I've checked the ignition fuse - OK.
I've checked the 10A Shift Lock Solenoid fuse and the 20A Key Interlock solenoid fuse in the Under Dash fuse block - both OK.
I've removed the center console and checked all of the continuity and voltage parameters of the Gear Position Indicator - all OK.
All other electrical components work, ie: sunroof, radio, exterior lights.

I have no clue where to go from here??? What have I missed and what steps would anyone recommend I go to next. I am baffled

 

I see you did some testing, but I have a few specific questions.

Does the smaller blk/wht wire at the starter get 12V when you turn the key to start the car?

At the gear position switch, does the wht/red wire get 12V when you turn the key to the start position?

 

Hi, I appreciate your response to my query.
Both the white/red wire at the gear position switch and the smaller black/white wire to the starter are hot when the ignition switch is turned all the way to the start position but not when it is turned off. Does this mean that the solenoid is bad after all?
And the large gauge wire to the starter is hot all the time, even with the key being out of the ignition switch. This would be the normal response, right?

 

The big wire to the starter is directly from the battery and hot all the time. The wht/red wire powers the blk/wht wire to the starter to switch on the solenoid.

You should try a voltage drop test measuring the voltage on the blk/wht wire at the gear position switch and at the starter to verify that the wiring is good. You have to back-probe the connector and read the voltage. The voltage should be close to zero (

 

It sounds like I would need a multimeter to do that test? And I don't even know what a back probe is? I am a 69 year old woman and I think I may have reached the limit of my ability to troubleshoot this problem. If the black/white wire at the solenoid is hot when the ignition switch is on, doesn't that mean that the solenoid is faulty? How could this still be related to the gear shift position switch??

 

You would need a volt/ohm meter do the testing I suggested. Your first post said you did voltage and continuity testing, so I assumed you had a volt meter to do testing.

Based on your testing, I think your starter solenoid is suspect, but you haven't technically ruled out the wiring from the ignition switch and the starter. You also haven't ruled out the + battery cable from the battery to the starer.

I suggested the voltage drop test, because the bench test of the starter passed at the parts store.

The voltage drop test is simply measuring the voltage at both ends of a wire while the wire is plugged in and current is running through it. To back-probe a wire, you push a t-pin into the back of the connector while it's plugged in and use your volt meter probe. See picture below.

The + battery cable is simpler, because you touch one end of the volt meter to the + battery post and the other end where the big cable connects to the starter. You read the voltage when the car is trying to start.

 

Thanks very much for the explanation. I have been using a continuity tester, and a 12VAC neon type voltage tester. I think I understand what you are describing but I admit I was a little disappointed you didn't immediately say it was the solenoid...
I will get on my bike tomorrow and buy a multi meter so I can do the tests you have suggested, and thank you very much for bearing with a poor old woman who is desperate to try to get my car running again without having to have it towed to a mechanic.

 

Oh, and one more thing. Your last sentence: "You read the voltage when the car is trying to start". Actually when the ignition switch is turned to the start position, NOTHING happens. The solenoid doesn't click, there is just no sound or action at all. I thought I should make that clear. Thanks again

 

That sentence should read "measure the voltage when turning the key to start the car". You want to measure the voltage when electricity is running through the circuit.

The leads on the volt meter should be long enough to do the test between the + battery post and large wire at the starter. You will likely need to use a wire with alligator clips on both ends and some spare wire to do the test between the gear position swtich.

There is another simple test to try. I call it the caveman test. You'll need an assistant to turn the key to start the car and hold it in the start position. Tap on the starter with the plastic handle of a screwdriver near where the wires connect to it with light/medium force. If the starter turns on and turns the engine, then you pretty much verified the starter is bad.

I'm suggesting the other tests, so you don't purchase a new/rebuilt starter, install, then your car still will not start. I assume most people on here don't have the finances to take the vehicle to a mechanic and certainly everyone doesn't want to waste money on unnecessary parts. Especially since you had the starter bench tested and it passed the test.

Most people would have replaced the starter based on the testing you already tried. I'm just trying to rule out a wire problem before suggesting replacing the starter or the starter solenoid.

There are some other ways to rule out wiring using jumper cables you would use to jump start a car. I can post some info if you are interested.

 

I would appreciate any tips you can provide. I live in Minnesota so certainly have jumper cables sitting on top of the spare tire. And I appreciate the "cave man" test.
Just so I understand, by testing the exact voltage between the battery terminal and the large wire on the starter as the ignition switch is turned to the start position, I will be measuring for voltage drop? The starter is only about 12" directly below the battery tray so wire should be long enough.
I'm heading for bed, but will check in the morning for your suggestions, and thanks again!!
Sydney