Okay... I have a 97' Honda Accord M/T. One day my car would not start: no sound what-so-ever... so I replaced the starter (it is good I had it checked). Once that was done it still refused to start without a peep. So I had began the process of elimination.

First, the ignition switch worked because I could turn it on and the radio/clock/dash this-and-that came on so I moved to the all the fuses in the signal chain. (Fuse 3 7.5A/ Fuse 18 50A/ Fuse 15 100A) All fine.

Next was the Clutch interlock switch (which I am assuming is the one that when the pedal is depressed it completes the circuit) anyways I pulled the wire clip attached to it and tested the continuity to the terminals in the clip and it was good.

Now the Starter Cut Relay is confusing me.. I checked continuity and it read that 2 of the 4 terminals (5 & 2) remained hot after the car was turned off. Is this right? I know that terminal 2 should remain hot (based on the Haynes Manual that I have been using thus far) but i was unsure that there should others.... Does this even matter in diagnosing my starter problem?

Now the black&white wire that attaches to the starter is said to attach the the starter cut relay but there is not a similar coated wire coming from the relay nor the same gauge. Where the hell did it go!?

So unless i skipped a step... it should be the wire that has somehow given up life and disappeared in my car. Or am I overlooking something simple?

 

Dont think the starter cut would matter just yet. But the wire may be your issue. Try running a wire from the relay to the starter and then starting the car so you know the relay wire is connected. Do you have an FSM? I find haynes isnt always accurate.

If that fails then go back to step one.

Did you check wire and ground connections first?

When i see a no start condition I start with what I see when I turn the key.

Do the dash lights dim?
Do you hear a single click?
Do you hear rapid clicking?
Are there no dash lights?
Can you turn on the lights after turning the ignition on without them dimming?

And then go under the hood based on whats happening with the ignition:
check connections and grounds
measure battery voltage
check fuses, both under the hood and in the cabin.

 

Starter Relay is in under-dash fuse box and should only have power when ignition is in Start position. Perhaps you meant the starter solenoid relay.

If you're not getting a 12v start signal at the starter solenoid (small blk/wht wire), the either igntion switch, Fuse 9 (under-dash), clutch interlock switch, starter relay is open, or open in wiring/connector somewhere.

good luck

 

Thank you, both, for your replies. Its reassuring to have others opinions.

@RobinsonRicer - I was unsure of running a wire to the starter solenoid because I didn't know how and did not want to cause anymore problems by blowing fuses and etc...; although, I will try it.
In fact my friend was just wanting to know if I could rig a wire from the battery to the solenoid, but I just want the problem to actually be fixed plus it would be experience for any future similar incidents.
What is an FSM?
I will check for those things. Where would the clicking sounds be coming from?

@TexasHonda - I thought the Starter Cut Relay was the one located behind/under the radio..?
I will check all my work. My car is at my stepdad's house and I live at the other end of town so I had to write down everything I did before I left.
I guess if nothing else works I will check all connections, grounds, fuses, and go back through the checklist.

Again I appreciate your responses. Here are my remaining questions:

Will I see the black/white wire attached to the Starter Cut Relay?

How do I check the Clutch Interlock Switch?

 

1. The attached is a picture of the location of the starter cut relay, which is below the dash. You should be able to see the Blk/Wht wire that is part of the connector.

2. This shows how to check the Clutch Interlock Switch.
Product & HowTo Info | | | TEST | AutoZone.com

To check a clutch interlock switch:

• Disconnect the connector to the switch at the clutch pedal assembly.
• With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the terminals of the switch with the clutch released and with it engaged.
• With the clutch released, there should be no continuity between the terminals.
• With the clutch engaged, there should be good continuity between the terminals.

A switch can be checked by placing an ohmmeter across the switch's terminals and moving the switch through its different positions. Courtesy of Honda Motor Company.

• If the switch doesn't complete the circuit when the clutch is engaged, check the adjustment of the switch. (Some switches are not adjustable.)
• If the adjustment is correct, replace the switch.
• Another way to check the clutch switch is to simply bypass it with a jumper wire.
• If the engine starts when the switch is jumped, a bad switch is indicated.

 

You sirs are gentlemen and scholars in the upper echelon of friendly assistance. Apparently I was checking everything wrong and I have yet to find the Starter Cut Relay. lol

I now have a gameplan. Thank you RobinsonRicer, TexasHonda, and Redbull. And I shall pay this kindness foward.

 

If you run a while directly I would recommend doing a clean splice connector at one end to the other. I was looking at the diagram and there is nothing between the two points youd connect it at so its safe to do.

An FSM is a factory service manual. I believe I posted a link for the 5th gen FSM. You look under electrical and starting system and you will find diagrams and troubleshooting procedures.

 

Cool beans. Will do.

 

Alright I got mah cah started up and running. But the problem was not what I was expecting it to be...

The problem was with the Clutch Interlock Switch (B), but not the switch itself. Apparently in my car (97' Honda Accord EX 2.2L M/T) and on the clutch pedal are two little plastic circular pieces: one for each clutch switch (A & B). These pieces are responsible for pressing against the tips of the Clutch Switches; although, they are connected to the pedal itself!

At some time the piece on my pedal must have been pushed out by the Clutch Interlock Switch and, without it pressing on the switch, the starting circuit was left open and the car would not start.

I am merely posting this update because someone having a similar problem with a 5th generation Accord can keep an eye out for this possible cause.

 

Oh yeah... I have yet to find that damned Starter Cut Relay... Lol.