Starting Issues.
#1
Starting Issues.
Hey new to the forum just bought a 95' Accord LX V6 when I bought the car it wouldn't start would click but not spin or turn over the motor so naturally I thought it had a bad starter. Bought a reman starter from autozone installed it. tried it but no luck. You can hear the starter motor spinning but it never engages the flex plate. I thought it could have been a bad reman solenoid but I tested it and the solenoid engages like it should. So basically where i'm at now is just replaced starter/solenoid starter spins but doesn't turn over the motor at all just a spinning sound.. any ideas?
Edit: Just to clarify the teeth on the flex plate look good not ground up at all.. Wondering now if possibly the motor is frozen up will see if i can turn it over manually and get back to you all. Even if the motor is bad it's not to bad of a deal payed 500$ cash for it only have about 150 in replaced fuses and new starter.
Edit: Just to clarify the teeth on the flex plate look good not ground up at all.. Wondering now if possibly the motor is frozen up will see if i can turn it over manually and get back to you all. Even if the motor is bad it's not to bad of a deal payed 500$ cash for it only have about 150 in replaced fuses and new starter.
Last edited by black954dr; 11-14-2010 at 08:04 PM. Reason: clarification
#2
Got any broken teeth on the flex plate?
So the solenoid engages, but does the starter pinion gear push out like it should?
So did the old starter spin like the new one? If not, maybe you DID have a bad starter, but then the parts store gave you the wrong kind. V6 vs 4-cyl, auto vs. manual trans have different starters.
So the solenoid engages, but does the starter pinion gear push out like it should?
So did the old starter spin like the new one? If not, maybe you DID have a bad starter, but then the parts store gave you the wrong kind. V6 vs 4-cyl, auto vs. manual trans have different starters.
#3
No, all the teeth on the flex plate look good not even noticeable wear and the car has 211k miles.
Yes, The pinion gear pushed out during my test.
No, the old starter did not spin it would just click when ignition was engaged. At first I thought the issue was due to getting a wrong part from autozone as well.. but according to their part numbers it was for my car.. It would make sense if they gave me a wrong part cause it sounds like everything is working fine but the pinion gear isn't getting to the flex plate and the solenoid engages and push's the pinion gear out? Im so confused about this car..
Yes, The pinion gear pushed out during my test.
No, the old starter did not spin it would just click when ignition was engaged. At first I thought the issue was due to getting a wrong part from autozone as well.. but according to their part numbers it was for my car.. It would make sense if they gave me a wrong part cause it sounds like everything is working fine but the pinion gear isn't getting to the flex plate and the solenoid engages and push's the pinion gear out? Im so confused about this car..
#4
Did you you re-attach your battery post securely after installing new starter. Bad connections might cause your problem.
Did the reman unit match the removed unit? If yes, then you likely have a bad starter. It is not unheard of for a reman unit to fail "out of the box".
If you could get your old starter back, it could be repaired. Probably too late. New copper contacts can be installed easily. I've done this on a oouple of cars: Accord and Acura 2.2 CL w/ good results.
good luck
Did the reman unit match the removed unit? If yes, then you likely have a bad starter. It is not unheard of for a reman unit to fail "out of the box".
If you could get your old starter back, it could be repaired. Probably too late. New copper contacts can be installed easily. I've done this on a oouple of cars: Accord and Acura 2.2 CL w/ good results.
good luck
#5
Did you already turn in the core? Compare the distance that the pinion comes out, compare the number of teeth on the pinion. Compare the exact dimensions to the bolt flanges. Compare anything you can think of...
#6
Yeah I bolted em up tight cleaned up the terminals and connectors.. noticed some shoddy wiring in the alarm system fixed that up but thats leading me to believe it could have a short somewhere on the way to the starter, going to clean up the leads check the connections and grounds and let ya'll know how it goes. Hopefully wont have to replace the entire starting harness..
I compared the reman to the old one as soon as i got it. had the same number and shape of teeth.. everything else looked the same including the distance the pinion comes out.
Offtopic: I got an aftermarket key with the car can I get a new stock key from the dealership? I know i can for dodges just not sure about hondas..
I compared the reman to the old one as soon as i got it. had the same number and shape of teeth.. everything else looked the same including the distance the pinion comes out.
Offtopic: I got an aftermarket key with the car can I get a new stock key from the dealership? I know i can for dodges just not sure about hondas..
Last edited by black954dr; 11-14-2010 at 09:02 PM. Reason: forgot to answer..
#7
Did you spin the motor by hand? Could be bad out of the box, as stated already. At a reach, check the engine stamping, did someone swap a motor into it, reaching on this as you said the new starter "matched" the old one....but the old one didn't work at all????
#8
I haven't had a chance to check if its froze or not waiting for the car to be towed to my house. I know the prev owner the motor was never swapped. The old starter was bad yeah, at first it did nothing then after a little tinkering with it i got it to click and decided it was a bad starter.
#9
The Honda dealership can cut you a key based off of your VIN. I got a new key with the rubber H logo for around $5- $10. I had to show them my vehicle registration card to have them do it.
Check to see if you can turn the engine using a socket on the crank pulley. It looks like your V6 crank turns clockwise when looking at the pulley from the passenger side of the car.
The smaller wire (blk/wht) to the starter should get 12V when you try to start the car. A simple test is to disconnect that wire from the starter, turn the key to the II position, and use a battery jumper cable from the + terminal of the battery to the open terminal of the starter. If the starter still will not turn the engine, then something is wrong with the battery, the battery cable, or the starter.
Check to see if you can turn the engine using a socket on the crank pulley. It looks like your V6 crank turns clockwise when looking at the pulley from the passenger side of the car.
The smaller wire (blk/wht) to the starter should get 12V when you try to start the car. A simple test is to disconnect that wire from the starter, turn the key to the II position, and use a battery jumper cable from the + terminal of the battery to the open terminal of the starter. If the starter still will not turn the engine, then something is wrong with the battery, the battery cable, or the starter.
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