93 Accord LX, 96K

No start: After a few minutes of idling in P I shut down. 5 min later car fired briefly but did not start. Repeated attempts to start did not work. 5 min after that it started fine. Concerns I need to think about before I get stranded?

Shaking steering wheel: Car idles around 750-800 rpm. Steering wheel shakes some then. Once rad fan starts shaking gets worse. When I hold brake and up idle speed to 1000 it settles. Should I just up idle speed screw to get it to 1000? Seems a little fast. Again, concerns I need to think about before I take action?

Thanks

 

For non-start, you need to figure out lack of fuel vs. lack of spark. Smell gasoline at tailpipe after trying?

Does it shake when in P or N? Only in D or R?
Your vacuum-operated rear engine mount might be the problem for shaking.

 

With this hot weather right now, my main relay likes to act up at times....you can usually hear it click on in conjunction with the check engine light coming onwhen the key is in the ON position before you start the car. If it doesn't then the car won't start or it might sputter for a second. It's very unpredictable.

 

Thanks fireballer. Illpay close attention for the next few. It was very hot that day.

Jim Blake...Ill give it a whiff if it happens again. Hopefully not. As for shaking it does in D and R. Even more in R now that you mention it. Is that the vacuum operated rear engine mount? If so what kind of cost would you expect?

 

You gotta look around. It might be as simple as a disconnected vacuum hose...

 

Thanks

 

Vacuum rear mount is #4, solenoid valve is #18. Check for cracked vacuum hoses. Unplug the solenoid & idle IN GEAR should become very rough. If no difference, somethings wrong.

 

Thanks Jim. IDIOT ALERT...One final ? Is that rear mount (#4)down low in the engine compartment? Forgive...Ive never looked for one before.

Thanks again.Great help!

 

Its back at the firewall, down low. Maybe see it betterfrom underneath?

The mount is supposed to get much softer under the following condition:
Tranny in gear (R or D)
Engine idling (foot OFF the gas pedal)

Support the car properly before crawling underneath. Dont let it fall down on you...

 

This pertains to the no-start and determining lack of spark or fuel.

Here is a quick and easy test to determine if the MFR is doing its job. Try to listen for the fuel pump to kick for the two second pause during the MFR clicks when you initially turn the key to the II position (don't try to start the car). It is a faint whirling/buzz sound coming from the back seat. Make sure the radio is off. You might need to have someone turn the key to the II position and you listen at the gas cap to hear the fuel pump. This will not verify that the fuel pump is pumping enough fuel.

Lack of spark can come from worn out ignition components (plugs, dist cap, rotor, plug wires), so replace those items if they are due. Other sources are the ignition switch, ignitor, or the coil. We can give you some tests if necessary, and the tegger site refernced in the top threads of the gen. tech. forum has a lot of information with pics to help with testing for spark.